What CO setting should I use

Stubert

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New to the Tenere, very pleased I must say.
I can see how to adjust the CO setting but not sure what to set it to ?
Thanks in advance.
 

Don in Lodi

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Some say for it to really make a felt difference you go to something like +20.
 

eemsreno

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Carbon monoxide (CO)—a colorless, odorless, tasteless, and toxic air pollutant—is produced in the incomplete combustion of carbon-containing fuels, such as gasoline,

Ideally your engine should have about 4% CO with a gas analyzer tester.
That is about +45 on your Tenere CO adjustment.
On USA bikes 2012 and 2013 you can ground a greenish wire going to the Tip Over sensor under the passenger seat. then change it through the dash.
On 2014 and newer It can only be adjusted by a Yamaha dealer. [unless them guys that do ECU reflash can change it]

And it takes about 20 to 30 minutes for a Yamaha mechanic to change it for you on +14s
 
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MattR

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Carbon monoxide (CO)—a colorless, odorless, tasteless, and toxic air pollutant—is produced in the incomplete combustion of carbon-containing fuels, such as gasoline,

Ideally your engine should have about 4% CO with a gas analyzer tester.
That is about +45 on you Tenere CO adjustment.
Ah that CO! So how do you adjust it? Or is that done via the Ecu and software?
Why is CO an issue? Surely if a bike is fuelling correctly the CO should be fine?


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eemsreno

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The bike is truly only fueling correctly when it is set to around 4& CO.,, Less is to lean and more is to rich.
 

Don in Lodi

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He told you. Ground a wire on 12-13, go to the shop on 14+.
 

squarebore

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He told you. Ground a wire on 12-13, go to the shop on 14+.
I think non usa bikes can be done easily via the dash. My 2015 took two minutes. However, I now understand the CO setting only makes a difference at idle so it is basically pointless. Just what I was told by the well educated in this field.

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MattR

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Mines a UK 2017. Just got it and it’s not like any bike I’ve had before so I’m on a steep learning curve. I’ll leave it as it is for now but I’ll get Chris at CJS to look at it in the summer when I take it off the road. ( it’s my winter bike)


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jbrown

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There is a lot of conflicting information on what the CO adjustment does. My current understanding is that it adjusts the base fuel injector "on" time by a set amount across the board (not a percentage). If that is true, then the effect would be most pronounced at low throttle openings, diminishing with increased throttle (and increased injector "on" time). In closed loop running, the O2 value drives the ECU to correct the base injector "on" time to give a stoichiometric mixture via short term fuel trim calculations. So in closed loop running, the CO setting should make no difference. Add to that the strong likelihood that the S10 includes both short term and long term fuel trim values, just like most automobile systems do. The long term trim values would be adjusted when the short term trim values remain for several seconds. Long term trim values would likely be applied in open loop running as well (they are an indication of something in the fuel delivery system being non-optimal). It would appear that the CO setting is meant to compensate for things like fuel pressure that could vary from unit to unit, to keep the fuel trim levels in an optimal range. With all of the fuel mixture manipulation that the ECU does, it becomes difficult to predict the outcome of extreme changes to the CO settings. It's not the same as just putting in a larger jet in a carbureted bike.
I could be wrong on what Yamaha's fuel injection algorithms do, but it seems reasonable to assume they do what other systems do.
 

squarebore

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There is a lot of conflicting information on what the CO adjustment does. My current understanding is that it adjusts the base fuel injector "on" time by a set amount across the board (not a percentage). If that is true, then the effect would be most pronounced at low throttle openings, diminishing with increased throttle (and increased injector "on" time). In closed loop running, the O2 value drives the ECU to correct the base injector "on" time to give a stoichiometric mixture via short term fuel trim calculations. So in closed loop running, the CO setting should make no difference. Add to that the strong likelihood that the S10 includes both short term and long term fuel trim values, just like most automobile systems do. The long term trim values would be adjusted when the short term trim values remain for several seconds. Long term trim values would likely be applied in open loop running as well (they are an indication of something in the fuel delivery system being non-optimal). It would appear that the CO setting is meant to compensate for things like fuel pressure that could vary from unit to unit, to keep the fuel trim levels in an optimal range. With all of the fuel mixture manipulation that the ECU does, it becomes difficult to predict the outcome of extreme changes to the CO settings. It's not the same as just putting in a larger jet in a carbureted bike.
I could be wrong on what Yamaha's fuel injection algorithms do, but it seems reasonable to assume they do what other systems do.
Beautiful!! I have no idea what you said but love the way you said it. You could write a military operations manual for any piece of equipment. Haha.

I'll try and summarise your text: "don't worry about it". How is that?

I wish I had such a good understanding of my motorbike and systems. Cheers

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madman4049

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I did it to my 12 a year ago, honest to God I couldn't and still can't tell a difference. You wanna do something beneficial run good fuel, OEM spark plugs, good filters, and change fluids frequently. You wanna do something really beneficial do a valve clearance check and adjustment if needed, do a throttle body sync use good gauges, and get the ECU reflashed by Tony I think his name is. Now that shit makes a difference.
 
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Tenman

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My gen 1 has a avc8130 flash, PCV, arrrow headers and a Yoshi RS4 can. It runs fine on reg gas. I've tried premium and never noticed any difference in mileage or performance. If I had it to do over. I'd probably save the money on the PCV. I couldn't really see any difference. The flash did all the good. I got my valves checked at 26k miles. They were all in spec. I've got 52k miles now. Mine hit an idicated 130 mph quick the other day. If I was younger I'd have rung it out. It was stable as could be with EO7 tires and dyna beads in them. It runs better now than it did 40k miles ago.
 

tomtecy

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So I've accessed the co setting vior the dash on my 2010 t10 and both cylinders were set at a value of 0 the bike was suffering with bad idle stuttering so I've balanced the tbs and increased the co to a value of 4 the bike now idles very smoothly with only a very rare stutter . Would increasing the co any more remove the stutter?
 
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