Valve check/adjustment

[jmg343]

Hey folks. I bought myself a 2014 ST1200 about a month ago. It had 18,000 miles on the clock. Im at 21,000 and quickly approaching the 26,600 mile mark that I have read is the magic number to check and adjust the valves. While I am good with a wrench, I have also seen that getting to and adjusting/checking the valves is every bit of an 8 hour day. So, not a job I am looking forward to.

MY questions are these:

How many of you have checked/adjusted your valves? Did you do it yourself or have it done? How big a job was it really? Were the valves out of spec requiring adjustment?

If you have not done the valves, what mileage are you up to? Any ticking? Hard starting? How long do you think you'll go before doing the valves and do you foresee any issues?

While I bought this bike because I want a relatively maintenance free machine (aside from brakes, fluid changes, etc) I don't want to overlook or ignore any important tasks that are going to cause major issues down the road. I do plan to ride the wheels off this thing.

Thanks

 

[WJBertrand]

I do them myself, two checks so far, both a little late on mileage. It is indeed a pretty long day. The most difficult part for me is getting the valve cover back in place with the gasket properly sealed. The first time, no shims were needed but the second time I changed 3 of the 4 exhaust shims and a couple of the intake ones too. Checking is relatively easy, but having to change them is significantly more work. I bought a Hot Cams shim kit and a micrometer for doing this.

 

[eram310]

Shim under bucket systems are a PITA for the average DIY mechanic.

I did it myself on an SV650S for the first time at 32,000 miles (16 k Recommendation) a bike that at the time I was doing track days on. It was marginally out of spec. It took me a day and a half, and a friend helped me. I swore I will never do it again. I do most other stuff including fork seals and fork oil and clutch work, so I am somewhat mechanically apt. Personally, I would skip this especially when you do not hear anything is wrong. BTW, a good friend on an XR650R only does the valves when it is difficult to start, but that one is easy.

I personally do not follow the maintenance intervals to a T. I use test strips to check coolant condition, (Still on the original) use a gauge to test the water content in the brake and clutch fluid (flushed last year after 5 years and it was marginal at 2-3% moister) and I am still on the original spark plugs at over 20K.

Just my 2 cents. Some might differ.

 

[jmg343]

Shim under bucket systems are a PITA for the average DIY mechanic.

I did it myself on an SV650S for the first time at 32,000 miles (16 k Recommendation) a bike that at the time I was doing track days on. It was marginally out of spec. It took me a day and a half, and a friend helped me. I swore I will never do it again. I do most other stuff including fork seals and fork oil and clutch work, so I am somewhat mechanically apt. Personally, I would skip this especially when you do not hear anything is wrong. BTW, a good friend on an XR650R only does the valves when it is difficult to start, but that one is easy.

I personally do not follow the maintenance intervals to a T. I use test strips to check coolant condition, (Still on the original) use a gauge to test the water content in the brake and clutch fluid (flushed last year after 5 years and it was marginal at 2-3% moister) and I am still on the original spark plugs at over 20K.

Just my 2 cents. Some might differ.

Excellent response, thank you. You and I are cut from the same cloth, in terms of following intervals to a T, etc. I had a 2005 KTM 525 exc that I put over 600 hours on and never changed the plug, nor brake fluid, never skipped a beat.

 

[Boris]

 

[eram310]

Excellent response, thank you. You and I are cut from the same cloth, in terms of following intervals to a T, etc. I had a 2005 KTM 525 exc that I put over 600 hours on and never changed the plug, nor brake fluid, never skipped a beat.

Another similarity, I also own a new to me KTM 350 EXC-F with only 30Hr . The service intervals on that thing is crazy, especially for a recreational rider like myself. BTW, Somebody on this forum just posted that he had his valves adjusted and plugs replaced at the dealer and now he has problem.

 

[BadNews]

Shim under bucket systems are a PITA for the average DIY mechanic.

I did it myself on an SV650S for the first time at 32,000 miles (16 k Recommendation) a bike that at the time I was doing track days on. It was marginally out of spec. It took me a day and a half, and a friend helped me. I swore I will never do it again. I do most other stuff including fork seals and fork oil and clutch work, so I am somewhat mechanically apt. Personally, I would skip this especially when you do not hear anything is wrong. BTW, a good friend on an XR650R only does the valves when it is difficult to start, but that one is easy.

I personally do not follow the maintenance intervals to a T. I use test strips to check coolant condition, (Still on the original) use a gauge to test the water content in the brake and clutch fluid (flushed last year after 5 years and it was marginal at 2-3% moister) and I am still on the original spark plugs at over 20K.

Just my 2 cents. Some might differ.

Sounds good. I wasn't aware that there are test strips for coolant and gauges to test moisture content in brake fluid. Could you tell us what brand or where you get these? TIA.

 

[~TABASCO~]

I’ve done a few. Not to bad but I have lots of practice. There are a few things to keep an eye on and be aware of. If you ask any questions, I will be happy to help and many others will help guide you if you chose to do it yourself. It’s just nuts and bolts. I do highly suggest you have a few different torque wrenches when dealing with the engine. I TQ everything to spec on the whole bike, but for others, the engine is critical.
Because of difficulty with getting some parts, try to order everything first before you get started. You will probably have to order the shims you will need (if you need).

 

[jmg343]

I’ve done a few. Not to bad but I have lots of practice. There are a few things to keep an eye on and be aware of. If you ask any questions, I will be happy to help and many others will help guide you if you chose to do it yourself. It’s just nuts and bolts. I do highly suggest you have a few different torque wrenches when dealing with the engine. I TQ everything to spec on the whole bike, but for others, the engine is critical.
Because of difficulty with getting some parts, try to order everything first before you get started. You will probably have to order the shims you will need (if you need).

Thank you, I appreciate that. I have all the tools, and ability necessary. The time I may be able to find. The desire....well. At this point in my life I'd almost just rather write the check. I used to love wrenching almost as much as I love riding, and theres no replacement for the peace of mind knowing that you did something yourself and it was done properly.

 

[TomZ]

To the DIYers that might be contemplating this job, I would say that it is tedious but not too difficult. I have done this job 7 times on three ST's (one belonging to a friend). The video in one of the posts above is a great place to start. Also a service manual. Not saying I would do it exactly the same way as the video, but pretty close. (Some of the wires do not need to be disconnected). As to parts, the valve cover gasket is generally reusable unless it has been glued in place. But it's good to have a spare. On the few occasions shims were needed, I got them from local shops as take-offs.

Being retired, I do not get paid by the hour (or at all) or need to finish the job in one session. So I just work until I've had enough and than come back fresh the next day. Taking time to get everything right and not being in a hurry helps to avoid mistakes.

I recommend pulling the right side electrical panel out of the way early in the process. This helps to pull cables out of the way and is essential to see the sprocket alignment marks and to make sure the gasket is in position. 4 bolts and the panel pivots out of the way and can be tied back. Re-installing the valve cover and gasket is the tricky part. The forum has lots of posts on methods. Gluing the gasket to the cover is quickest, but I have done the job without using adhesive by carefully teasing the gasket into place with dental picks. Check to be sure the plug well gaskets are in place by feeling inside the plug wells.

 

[eram310]

Sounds good. I wasn't aware that there are test strips for coolant and gauges to test moisture content in brake fluid. Could you tell us what brand or where you get these? TIA.

This is what I have used, but there are many other options out there.
Coolant Test Strips https://www.cooltrak.com/
Brake fluid tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077S3RZZH/ref=as_li_ss_tl?SubscriptionId=AKIAJO7E5OLQ67NVPFZA&ascsubtag=868710342-2-1576699237.1627059592&tag=shopperz_origin1-20

 

[tntmo]

I checked mine a bit early (21k miles) because I had a several week long trip to Alaska and across the USA on the agenda. I was considering not doing it, but I knew it would be in the back of my mind. I had to adjust three exhaust valves at that point and I also installed a manual cam chain tensioner.

I did a bunch of research online before doing the job and the way people were going on about it I thought it was going to be a nightmare. I'm a garage mechanic, worked on all my bikes and I help other people as well. I have done valve checks and adjustments on a few bikes, usually dirt bikes but a couple sport bikes as well.

The Tenere is not all that difficult comparatively. It has a few of it's own idiosyncrasies but my first time took about five hours. If you're mechanically inclined and have a copy of the manual and have done some research then you can do it.

 

[yoyo]

I've got a bit of time to go yet as I'm only on 18k, when the time comes I'll price up having it done and will decide from there. I'm happy spannering and have changed plugs oils, fluids etc and I'm happy to follow the book but if it's only a couple of hundred £ I might just pay it. I've got a mate who is a really good mechanic, very thorough so I'm happy for him to do it.

Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk

 

[bimota]

I've got a bit of time to go yet as I'm only on 18k, when the time comes I'll price up having it done and will decide from there. I'm happy spannering and have changed plugs oils, fluids etc and I'm happy to follow the book but if it's only a couple of hundred £ I might just pay it. I've got a mate who is a really good mechanic, very thorough so I'm happy for him to do it.

Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk

ADE,

is that the guy i took my tenere to to have the cam chain tensioner changed up my touratech

rob

 

[yoyo]

ADE,

is that the guy i took my tenere to to have the cam chain tensioner changed up my touratech

rob

Rob, that'll be him.

Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk

 

[bimota]

i have 26500 on mine so due to be done

rob

 

[yoyo]

i have 26500 on mine so due to be done

rob

Give him a shout when you are ready, he won't be quick but at least you it'll be done correctly. That's something that's always worried me about it, you drop it off and then have to take their word for it that it's been done properly.

Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk

 

[bimota]

Give him a shout when you are ready, he won't be quick but at least you it'll be done correctly. That's something that's always worried me about it, you drop it off and then have to take their word for it that it's been done properly.

Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk

yep,

i,ll get the rest of the summer over with and give it to him this winter to do it, i don,t mind being without it for a week in the winter months

rob

 

[holligl]

My first check was by a dealer, and I later found they left the crankcase breather tube disconnected. My second check, and adjustment I did my self, so I know it was done right. I took my sweet time, two day's. The first time resetting the CCT was a real lesson. I know how now, but plan to totally replace it next time. Wear gloves or you will be slicing your hands on sharp edges. Easy pressure, and backup off a bit as soon as it starts binding. You will save a ton of money if you learn to DIY. Invest in a shim kit and it should be good for the life of the bike. I replaced all the gaskets, but probably won't next time.



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[sandro1973]

Hi folks, i recently bought a used 2015 ZE / ES model, as far as i could track from the service history, it never had a valve check.

My bike has 45.300 miles, starts fine on the 1st try everytime when cold with no weird noises. Idle stabilizes after 1 to 2 minutes after startup. I was considering getting it done right away, since the bike, not being new, it's new to me and i'm kind of picky with maintenance....i don't like surprises, major issues or getting stranded ( been there, done that..).....but maybe waiting for the 50.000 miles check, might be OK and i can carry on enjoying the bike a bit more before going for it.

One thing i know for a fact and gives me a bit of reassurance is knowing someone with a 115.000 miles on his bike that recently did Portugal to Nordkapp ( Norway ) and back ( roughly 7.500 miles ) with no issues at all, has had is valves checked in scheduled maintenance in a good reputation workshop and never had to adjust any....this, i was told not only by the owner, but also by the mechanic.

The italian Davide Biga also did a RTW trip with a 1st Gen bike did roughly 56.000 miles ( it has 171.000 miles now ) with not much maintenance apart from the odd oil+filter change...and Nick Sanders almost the same mileage on the same kind of maintenance, both engines were opened, little wear and no valves adjusted.

The track record seems to be pretty good on this for us not to over worry if we miss one valve check.