Valve adjustment - more lessons learned

[holligl]

I mount a c-clamp in a vice, then slowly clamp down on the cct while rotating the shaft. It requires very little clamping force, and you must turn the shaft steadily. If you put too much clamp force the shaft won’t retract, go gently, slow and steady once it begins moving.View attachment 71779

Got it, more finese, less force. Success. Saved 2-3 days and $150.

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[BLW]

All good info, it will come in handy when I do mine, I wonder what the actual flat rate time is for the job?

 

[gv550]

When you install the new shim be sure it is seated in the valve keeper with the number facing up. Often the shim sticks to the followers and you may be tempted to stick the new shim there too, but it won’t work. I found the Hotcams shims sometimes have a bit of an edge and like to sit cocked in the keeper and you will get a tight measurement, although it will likely settle into place after running for a while.
Keep track of the followers, if you get them mixed up you will have to measure and reshim all over again.
Before removing shims be sure to plug any holes in the head, very easy to drop an oily shim down into the engine.

 

[FM Rider]

Got it, more finese, less force. Success. Saved 2-3 days and $150.

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took my cordless drill, chucked a 1/4 socket drive extension in the drill and then put on a 12mm socket and used that to turn the plunger to reset. I was surprised how easy it was to reset using the cordless drill after all the time spent trying to get the plunger in using the twist method.

 

[holligl]

took my cordless drill, chucked a 1/4 socket drive extension in the drill and then put on a 12mm socket and used that to turn the plunger to reset. I was surprised how easy it was to reset using the cordless drill after all the time spent trying to get the plunger in using the twist method.

I had a bearing I added some rubber to for the base of the CCT, in the vise. Turns easy and worked great once I learned less pressure was needed. Once you get it to the end, the vise allows you to use both hands to set the clip. Next time I will add a socket or nut to the plunger end to keep it from turning. I did learn the hard way you need to wear gloves to avoid nasty little cuts. I saw blood on the CCT before I felt pain.

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[Berg_Donk]

Hi,
have a Q on the breather hose mod you did... i know that PITA hose too... so that is indeed a good idea

The reason for cutting the hose in TWO places was to insert another peace of hose in the middle to route it out a bit from down under the air box ?
Do you think that just cutting the hose in ONE place wouldn't ease so much the task of removing the bitc.... out ?

thanks

Sorry about the late reply. I cut it to take advantage of the moulded in bends and get the join accessible on the side. This means the hose needs to be lengthened too, and it just so happened that a spare DR650 carb breather hose suited perfectly. Works good.

 

[ocgeek]

Thanks
it is clear now

 

[~TABASCO~]

When you install the new shim be sure it is seated in the valve keeper with the number facing up. Often the shim sticks to the followers and you may be tempted to stick the new shim there too, but it won’t work. I found the Hotcams shims sometimes have a bit of an edge and like to sit cocked in the keeper and you will get a tight measurement, although it will likely settle into place after running for a while.
Keep track of the followers, if you get them mixed up you will have to measure and reshim all over again.
Before removing shims be sure to plug any holes in the head, very easy to drop an oily shim down into the engine.

I kinda have found the opposite, the factory ones are pretty tight and have to be "snapped in" and the hot-cams fell in. No matter, you brought up some good points. As you said, and im just reiterating, MAKE SURE the shims are seated before reinstalling the bucket. Great info !

 

[holligl]

I kinda have found the opposite, the factory ones are pretty tight and have to be "snapped in" and the hot-cams fell in. No matter, you brought up some good points. As you said, and im just reiterating, MAKE SURE the shims are seated before reinstalling the bucket. Great info !

I did have to upgrade my stick magnet to pull the buckets and shims out. I think I ended up with an 8lb. The Autozone I went to did not have any that folded so you can't get the magnet flat on some of the buckets. They seemed to develop a vacuum as they come out, but I was able to work them out. I did buy their $5 valve lapper, but will return it unopened. The smallest suction tip was about the diameter of the bucket, and I would have had to cut off the handle. I figured the magnet would guarantee the shim coming with the bucket. Here's my keep 'em organized box.

The 9.48mm Pro X shim kit worked fine, but the job cleaned out a couple of my sizes, pretty much a one way street anyway..

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[Mr. BR]

ahh..... I was wondering about the shim size (dia) for the Super Ten.... 9.48mm. Same as the FJR1300 and no surprise there...
Which is good since I have a Hot-Cams shim kit which I used for my past 2 checks on my '05 FJR which had little prior Service history at purchase (shim kit currently on loan to another forum guy).
At 48K miles: 1 intake and 1 exh were tight. Rechecked at 78K miles, all good, no adjustments needed.
I expect the Super Ten to be similarly robust but I'll do the checks for peace of mind despite the relatively low risk (IMO) of the "if it's not broke, don't fix it" approach.
The same debates can be found over at the FJR1300 and Concours 14 forums.....(along with oil and tire theads naturally). No matter what you ride, people ask the same questions.
Regards,
Mr. BR (possible future ST owner)

 

[Martino-2000]

Can you guys double check my math here?
Just checked the valves at 26k and they are all off a little. I know most guys have. It had a problem I just must be lucky I guess

Here are the measurements, the existing shims and what we calculated as the new shims. The intake shims from cylinder two can get moved to cylinder one so I don’t have to buy those. This should reset me back to the safe adjust me range, I believe. Can you guys make sure I have this right?

View attachment 52842

Just looking at your excel should you be increasing the shim on the exhaust not decreasing as you reading now is 1.9+0.2= 2.1 which is out of spec?

 

[Xclimation]

Just looking at your excel should you be increasing the shim on the exhaust not decreasing as you reading now is 1.9+0.2= 2.1 which is out of spec?

Okay...you kinda confused me a little.....but by putting in a thinner shim...he is increasing the space. If he increased the shim, then the space would be smaller. So it appears to me he did the right thing? If I'm wrong, then please chime in....

 

[Martino-2000]

I used the zip ties similarly to as pictured above but I put them on both cam sprockets. I was able to tilt the cams far enough out of the way to reach the buckets and shims without removing them from the engine. This allowed me to leave the zip ties in place for the entire procedure. The shims on the far right, closest to the cam sprockets were a bit fiddly to remove and replace but it's possible.

Yes i saw this technique I think it will save a lot of time with reassembly

 

[Martino-2000]

Just looking at your excel should you be increasing the shim on the exhaust not decreasing as you reading now is 1.9+0.2= 2.1 which is out of spec?

Yes you are right i see now he has extra 0.05 thanks

 

[samstoterau]

Where did you guys get your shim kits?

 

[holligl]

Where did you guys get your shim kits?

Search Amazon, Ebay, or Revzilla.
9.48mm diameter, Same size as the WR450 and some other bikes.
Hot Cams most prevalent, but I ended up getting Pro X for a bit less.


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[samstoterau]

Search Amazon, Ebay, or Revzilla.
9.48mm diameter, Same size as the WR450 and some other bikes.
Hot Cams most prevalent, but I ended up getting Pro X for a bit less.


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So the fitment application doesn't really matter as long as it's 9.48, correct. I see one for an Arctic cat that's that size, just wanted to make sure it will work before I order it.

 

[holligl]

So the fitment application doesn't really matter as long as it's 9.48, correct. I see one for an Arctic cat that's that size, just wanted to make sure it will work before I order it.

Never thought about snow mobiles or UTV's, but the diameter is critical for the fitment, then the thickness for the adjustment.

The problems with these kits is you can never use 1/3, as they are too thick and you typically only get 3 of each size, where you could need 4. I did use all of one size, but once you use that size, you will go smaller the next time as the valves wear. You can potentially reuse your OEM shims in other positions too. The kits (and supply chain OEM shims) come in .005mm increments so you can't just go to the high side of the range.

While they will likely come out with the bucket, they install first, numbers up, going back together. I used assembly oil. Don't drop it!

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[scott123007]

I think I'm doing something wrong calculating for needed shims. Three of my exhaust valves compute out to a 100 shim, but these don't seem to be listed anywhere.

You need to explain a little more what is going on. What size shim is in there now, and how much clearance do you have?

 

[RogerRZ]

You need to explain a little more what is going on. What size shim is in there now, and how much clearance do you have?

I hadn't seen you answered, and deleted my post. Turns out my math was wrong, and I wasn't following the FSM closely enough before plugging the numbers in the online calculator. Turns out I need a couple of 180's, a couple of 185's, and a 205.

All good!