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Valve adjustment - more lessons learned

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ballisticexchris

Guest
Xclimation said:
I don't trust shops that includes dealerships. Only way I'd trust them is with me standing over who is touching my bike. And for the time...I might as well do it myself.
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That's too bad. I have never once in my life had an issue with any repair done by a dealer or shop for any of my vehicles. The only horror stories and trust issues I hear about are by members in various forums on the internet. Shops that do substandard work do not last long.

I'm pretty confident I could do a valve adjustment myself. OTOH, I would rather have a shop do it knowing that the job is performed well beyond my standards.

The attention to detail for complicated repairs are much better from a good repair facility than most owners are able to perform. An example would be the average owner would do just the valve adjustment, reset the CCT, button it up and be done.

By taking to a shop much more is done. New CCT, all clutch plates/clutch basket inspected and replaced, clutch rod and ball replaced, hanger spring/torsion spring replaced, gaskets, etc. Also they have the parts available without having to make multiple trips to parts stores.

Sierra1 said:
Y'all are making me appreciate my dealer more and more. :)
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Me as well. My experience is any dealer or shop that has been around while does good work.
 
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ballisticexchris

Guest
Clawdog60 said:
With fork service? Remove/ install?
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That is something that would cost extra and you would have to request at time of requesting the work. I normally remove my forks and have them done at a suspension shop.
 
B

ballisticexchris

Guest
Clawdog60 said:
Yep. I was just commenting if you had to take it to a dealer for all of that work it would be very expensive. I’m for self service. I don’t have a fat wallet. I haven’t found a technician I trust more than myself either.
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My wallet it not very large either. I do a lot of the simple stuff myself. I trust a good technician to do a far better than myself. It's what they do for a living. Someone who does motor work day in and day out is going to be much better qualified and efficient than someone like me who does it for a hobby or out of necessity.

I understand that a lot of guys just cannot and will not trust anyone to touch their machines. I have heard of all kinds of horror stories on valve adjustments. Some of those stories are from the owners themselves doing motor damage from attempting to do it themselves.

I also look at the time involved doing the work. For aprox. 600.00 I can drop off my bike and have it done right. It takes no more than 1 hour of my time total getting it there and explaining what I need. Even at 50.00 an hour it's going to cost me close to 1000.00 and a whole weekend of my time to do the job. I work on my vehicles for fun. Anything more then it's off to the shop.
 
H

hitgwin

New Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Ontario, Canada
Hi I,m a newbee to the forum.
Checking the valves I found two exhaust at 1.1 mm, one on each cylinder and the right one on both. Their mates are at .23 and .24. Anyone else encounter anything like this? Is there even a shim under there? Three intakes are in spec, one at the limit at .1.
2017 ES, 35 kkm
Thanks for any feedback.
Jeff
 
TomZ

TomZ

Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2014
Messages
60
Location
Pacific Northwest
hitgwin said:
Hi I,m a newbee to the forum.
Checking the valves I found two exhaust at 1.1 mm, one on each cylinder and the right one on both. Their mates are at .23 and .24. Anyone else encounter anything like this? Is there even a shim under there? Three intakes are in spec, one at the limit at .1.
2017 ES, 35 kkm
Thanks for any feedback.
Jeff
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There are compression release pins on 2 exhaust valves. You can see them if you look under the cam. It's important to set the cam position carefully so that those 2 valves are not lifted when you measure.
 
treybrad

treybrad

Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2016
Messages
71
Location
PF TX
TomZ said:
There are compression release pins on 2 exhaust valves. You can see them if you look under the cam. It's important to set the cam position carefully so that those 2 valves are not lifted when you measure.
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Yep, those pins had me confused for a bit as well! Rotate the engine a little more and keep an eye on those pins -- you'll be able to visually see when the bucket stops moving and you can check those clearances.

Fingers crossed those two are in spec as well! Sounds like you might get out easy and not have to swap shims.

trey
 
FM Rider

FM Rider

Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2015
Messages
85
Location
Rotonda West FL
Checked my valves for the first time at 41,000 miles and found all four exhaust valves tight at .20mm, .15mm, .20mm and .18mm. The intake side was ok at .14mm for 2 valves and .13mm for 2 valves. The original shims on the exhaust side were 3 at 1.99 and 1 at 2.00. I zip tied the chain to the sprockets and then removed the camshaft covers on exhaust and intake side and gently lifted the exhaust cam and used a small magnet to remover the lifters and the shims. Replaced shims with correct sizes and replaced camshaft cover on intake camshaft first and then on exhaust side. That was a big mistake!

I tried resetting the CCT by placing in my woodworking vise and using a piece of rubber over the plunger and then twisting the CCT while increasing pressure but was unsuccessful in getting the plunger retracted. Finally took my cordless drill, chucked a 1/4 socket drive extension in the drill and then put on a 12mm socket and used that to turn the plunger to reset. I was surprised how easy it was to reset using the cordless drill after all the time spent trying to get the plunger in using the twist method.

Put the CCT back in, followed the procedure to release the plunger and tension the chain and then cut the zip ties off the cam sprockets. Turned the motor over by hand and it promptly jumped three links out of time! Lesson learned, consult manual each step because it clearly states to replace exhaust camshaft cover first to ensure that tension remains on chain.

Glad I had painted marks on the chain and on each sprocket so I could easily see that I had screwed up!
 
Bigbore4

Bigbore4

Active Member
Founding Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2010
Messages
845
Location
Andover Minnesota USA
I'll be diving in again in the next couple weeks. 1st check all exhaust and one intake were tight. That was around 30K miles. 2nd check at around 60K miles and they were all within limits. I am now just shy of 100K miles so time to look again. I expect (hope?) they will be in spec.

But in reality I may be going in deep (cam removal) to replace the chain. Normally this style of chain would be good for life of the bike but the chain in these rascals is rather long and it was less than 40 bux.

The first check I had everything tied so the cams came out far enough to get at the shims, but not far enough to mark the inside of the gears. I intend to correct that if I do go ahead with the chain replace. I had a CCT replace under yes. I do not plan to change it again. Checked on one though for my buddies bike and holee crap have they gone up!
 
holligl

holligl

Find the road less traveled...
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Messages
2,251
Location
IL/AZ
Wow, I just called my two closest shops and got 2 estimates of $800 plus parts. I guess I need to learn how to DIY this job. Had them checked the first time by a dealer who is no longer in business. That was a couple years ago and it cost just over $400. $800-1000 (with a new CCT) starts to get painful, mostly in explaining it to the wife.
 
holligl

holligl

Find the road less traveled...
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Messages
2,251
Location
IL/AZ
So, checking the manual to fully understand and be prepared to DIY. It calls out a valve lapper to remove the valve lifters and pads. Is this anything more than a suction pad on a stick? What are folks using for this?

It does look like the CCTs have increased prices. OEM $190-233. Graves manual is $140. What has to be removed to check and adjust the manual CCTs?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
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