Upgrades for low-mile 2010?

[ediehl]

OK, I've been doing some searching on this forum, and have already gotten some responses from a prior query regarding vibration reduction, which pointed me to some issues that I did not know of. My 'new' 2012 has +8K miles (I'm the 3rd owner!), and I'm thinking that I may keep it a long time if I can get the modest engine issues sorted out. I have a smaller dual sport, and so my intent for the S10 is as a comfortable street bike that can on rare occasion wander off on a forest road. So no serious abuse has been, or will be, ministered. My only real problem now is vibration in the grips and the footpegs, which I often am not especially aware of but which usually becomes much more noticeable under a heavier load. From reading a number of posts, it sounds like what I should consider doing is:

1) Gen 2 clutch basket
2) Gen 2 handlebar risers
3) ECU reflash (by AVC or ECUUnleashed?). I guess this requires sending the ECU away for servicing?
4) Gen 2 CCT replacement
5) Throttle body sync

I get the impression that the last 2 items are not so critical on a low-mileage bike; maybe I could wait and combine them with the first valve servicing?
I'm not a pro mechanic but have a fair set of tools and have been wrenching my bikes, damn, going on 50 years now. I think the clutch basket replacement should be within the scope of my abilities, if there are no highly specialized tools or procedures involved (I bookmarked what appears to be a very good tutorial about the clutch basket on this forum, and will study that in depth before starting). I think in a post on the sync issue, it was mentioned that the factory manual says that one of the screws (marked white) should not be adjusted (for emission control purposes?), but it really should be adjusted, and so maybe having a Yamaha dealer perform that service would not be such a good idea? That, I have to admit, is not something I've done before. Special tool required?

Sound like I'm on the right track; am I missing anything?

 

[AVGeek]

The only specialized tool for the TB synch is a manometer of some type; these can be made up pretty cheaply with some tubing and AT fluid, or there is also the Harmonizer (fully electronic) many of us have purchased from an inmate over at ADVRider.

When I did my clutch basket, I picked up a holder tool from my local Cycle Gear.

 

[ediehl]

I have a local Cycle Gear. I don't suppose that you mean that the holder tool was a loaner? If not, what was the approximate cost?

 

[greg the pole]

Search function is your friend.
That said, you are on the right track.

Sync TBs 1st.
There's a write up on the right hand screw somewhere, it's meant as the reference mark. Check the manual.

The clutch basket does improve vibes on some bikes at 3200 rpm. Well worth doing if you plan to keep the bike for a while.

The CCT has nothing to do with vibes, rather a poor design leading to a possible failure. Fit a manual one or a 2014 and up.

ECU flash will make the bike go faster, it will not smooth it out. Go with AC, he's reliable, and great to deal with.

If you want more info check here: https://thetenerist.wordpress.com/category/tenere/

 

[EricV]

::026:: to what Greg wrote. You have a bike that's barely broken in, or not quite, depending on how the first owner rode it. Most bikes smooth out some during the first 6-10k miles. If your bike was babied during it's previous life, it may still smooth out some more.

The TB sync can impact vibes significantly, if it's out now. Most bikes don't change much over time, but who knows where it's at until you check it?

The vibes under load in the 3-4k rpm range are associated with the clutch hub. That said, most people don't really notice much in that regard until 30-50k miles. You may be more sensitive to the vibes, or it may be other issues.

Start with the inexpensive items and work up to the more expensive items. You don't need a CCT yet. You should check the throttle body sync first.

You should probably try some Grip Puppies too, as it's an inexpensive way to help isolate some vibes at the bars.

Gen II triple trees are different from Gen I, you can't just mount up Gen II risers to a Gen I triple tree. Rox does make anti-vibe risers, but they may raise the bars enough to require longer brake and clutch lines. Just an additional cost, but not horrible.

The parallel twin motor is not the smoothest out there. If what you feel is bothering you now, enough that you feel the need to spend several hundred dollars attempting to minimize it, it's probably worth considering a move to the Gen II bike now, while your '12 is worth as much as it will ever be. Sorry, but go ride a '14-on bike before you start throwing money at the '12. Then decide if you really want to try smoothing out the '12. No matter what you do, it will never be as smooth as the Gen II bikes.

I say that as someone with 100k+ on a 2012, the updated CCT, the Gen II clutch hub and well balanced TBs. The CCT isn't a vibe issue, but it was on your list.

 

[AVGeek]

I have a local Cycle Gear. I don't suppose that you mean that the holder tool was a loaner? If not, what was the approximate cost?

Purchased the tool (you can never have too many tools!):

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/motion-pro-clutch-hub-holder

 

[EricV]

If you have multiple bikes that you might be doing clutch work on, the Cycle Gear tool is fine. That said, the EBC clutch tool is a lot easier to work with, IMHO. And runs less than $20. I got the EBC tool when I did my clutch hub and it worked great. It was cheaper than borrowing one from another forum member when you factored in the shipping back and forth. The down side is its specific to the Yamaha, so not a generic tool. Up side is that it fits perfectly and didn't slip off when being used.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/EBC-Clutch-Tool-fits-Yamaha-XTZ1200-Super-Tenere-2012-2013-/331884312524?fits=Model%3ASuper+Tenere&hash=item4d45d8b7cc:g:-cIAAOSwc1FXZBz8&vxp=mtr

Edit - You will also need a 30mm impact socket and an impact wrench to get the clutch hub nut off. I have an air compressor, but still needed to get the socket & wrench, (sold my mechanic air tools long ago), but I can tell you it's a 10 second task with the impact wrench and the correct socket, or you can fight it for an hour trying to make do w/o. And those fingers on the clutch boss break easily. I now have an extra, repaired, clutch boss to prove it. :-[