Treating corrosion and header tarnish

[Ride]

Is this normal? I picked up my s10 from a guy in MA in the middle of winter. Lots of salt/brine on the road. Test rode it 1/4 mile and put it away. When I looked again it was a mess of corrosion not that it was pretty to begin with. I washed the bike down and it’s looking sorry again.

What are you all doing to keep your bikes from a frozen bolt nightmare? Is this a normal Yamaha thing?

I have naval jelly (phosphoric and sulfuric acid) and Harpic toilet cleaner (Hydrochloric acid). I’ve used the toilet cleaner on headers before and it works quickly.

I have read that it messes up the passivation on stainless steel but given some time or polish it can be brought back. Passivation does something with the nickel layer I think to prevent it from retarnishing even faster than before. From what I’ve previously read, this can happen with time or polish.

I also just ordered some ACF-50 to deal with corrosion. I’ve never used it before though.

Thoughts?

 

[Sierra1]

A lot of guys use the ACF-50. Especially the UK guys. Everybody that uses it. . . . swears by it. I think you're on the right path.

 

[tallpaul]

Just be aware that ACF50 won't restore the tarnishing that is already on those zinc plated parts. They are now that dull grey colour forever unless you get them replaced or replated.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Your spokes are probably corroded as well. Salt will wreck any and all metals. You're fairly new here, the UK riders have been dealing with this for years. The answer is to not ride while salt is still on the road.

 

[Ride]

I’m much more concerned about future maintenance and durability than esthetics but looking at corroded spokes and hardware definitely irks my sensibilities.
Asking “Is that new or worse??” often is not my idea of a good time.

If I can’t knock the corrosion off but can coat it with anything visibly it’ll be a step in he right direction, even if it just makes the hardware look dull instead of light grey.

 

[bimota]

had my wheels rebuilt with stainless spokes 7 years ago shocking how good they are not a mark on them

rob

 

[tallpaul]

Who did your wheels, Rob? Was it expensive too?

 

[bimota]

Who did your wheels, Rob? Was it expensive too?

my bike is a gen 1 2013 it was 11 months old wheels were bad took pictures and sent the pictures to CRESCENT SUZUKI where the bike was bought, they then agreed to rebuild the wheels put a warranty in yamaha excepted it,
now i was 200 mies way from them did not want to take it back, they agreed to pay for the rebuild when i wanted it done and supply new spokes
i did not want to rebuild with yamaha spokes as i would be in the same boat the following year.

So the spokes they sent me i sold on ebay as i did not want them, , when i wanted the job donei rang CRESCENT uptold te was doing it ad sent the wheels in the post to HAGON SUSPENSION they have a wheel building dept and do there own stainless spokes yamaha paid for the post and rebulid i had sold the yamaha spokes so i had to pay for the stainless whitch i think was about £80 a rim, but wow that was 7 years ago and my wheels bear in mind we are in the UK and i ride all year are stunning the spokes are unmarked,
i also do alot of 2 up riding with luggage and they have been perfect
HAGON SUSPENSION do a really good job with these tenere wheels

rob

 

[AlanSmith7]

I purchased this on the back of positive feedback from a friend. I ride all year round and find my bike gets covered in rubbish. My motorcycle has so many detailed areas which are a nightmare to clean so I thought I'd give ACF50 a go. It's great, It cleaned my motorcycle and one coat is enough for 1 season. The bolts come up like brand new. The engine looks great, the frame looks mint.

 

[MFP]

I’m much more concerned about future maintenance and durability than esthetics but looking at corroded spokes and hardware definitely irks my sensibilities.
Asking “Is that new or worse??” often is not my idea of a good time.

If I can’t knock the corrosion off but can coat it with anything visibly it’ll be a step in he right direction, even if it just makes the hardware look dull instead of light grey.

Did the P/O in MA live by the coast?
That kind of looks like saltwater mist type corrosion/oxidation.

 

[StefanOnHisS10]

Ha those look like my headers! I just washed and dryer them properly. After that ACF50, fine for me. Everyday use and semi dirtbike to me.

It’s all about your use how shiny you want them. Road princess or dirtbike-ish

 

[Checkswrecks]

The headers are stainless and can actually be polished out with a lot of effort.

 

[Ride]

Did the P/O in MA live by the coast?
That kind of looks like saltwater mist type corrosion/oxidation.

He did not own the bike very long. Prior owner was in Carolinas.

 

[Ride]

The headers are stainless and can actually be polished out with a lot of effort.

I’m telling ya, Harpic is amazing stuff. I will have to reread how to use around a bike if I don’t want to uninstall headers.

I did up a set for my Bandit (see earlier pics). 15 minutes while running with a scotchbrite and then lots of fresh water and a baking soda water dip for good measure and they came up like new. I applied a little polish to them after just to help protect passivation or some jumbo jumbo like that. No real effort at all just some time.

 

[Ride]

Ha those look like my headers! I just washed and dryer them properly. After that ACF50, fine for me. Everyday use and semi dirtbike to me.

It’s all about your use how shiny you want them. Road princess or dirtbike-ish

I’m really ok with patina. I just want it to be patina and not neglect.

The paint is scratched and so are the crash bars but it doesn’t bother me enough to bust out the HVLP gun or send them off to the powder coaters. I know it’s not compromised material and hope to add some more equally minor distinguishing marks!

 

[Sierra1]

He did not own the bike very long. Prior owner was in Carolinas.

I think that it was left out in the weather then. When I first had mine, it was under a carport. Not out of the weather, but not in it. I don't have any corrosion, but I didn't have the sea air either.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Commuting when the first Spring rains wash the salt brine off the road really does a number on the pipes!

 

[Wallkeeper]

Is this normal? I picked up my s10 from a guy in MA in the middle of winter. Lots of salt/brine on the road. Test rode it 1/4 mile and put it away. When I looked again it was a mess of corrosion not that it was pretty to begin with. I washed the bike down and it’s looking sorry again.

What are you all doing to keep your bikes from a frozen bolt nightmare? Is this a normal Yamaha thing?

I have naval jelly (phosphoric and sulfuric acid) and Harpic toilet cleaner (Hydrochloric acid). I’ve used the toilet cleaner on headers before and it works quickly.

I have read that it messes up the passivation on stainless steel but given some time or polish it can be brought back. Passivation does something with the nickel layer I think to prevent it from retarnishing even faster than before. From what I’ve previously read, this can happen with time or polish.

I also just ordered some ACF-50 to deal with corrosion. I’ve never used it before though.

Thoughts?

Different things going on here

1. Zinc Plating (nuts and bolts)- under specific conditions, Zinc can be an effective corrosion barrier. The problem is that for elemental zinc to get to its passivated state (zinc carbonate) the zinc must go through different states. If excess moisture, chlorides or extreme pH is involved it just dissolves or turns into "white rust" and then the steel underneath rusts. When ever I have a nut or bolt rusting, I replace them with Stainless. More expensive than zinc plate but they will not freeze on you.

2. Exhaust- 439 SS is commonly used for high end exhaust components. Unlike the more common 304 SS, 439 does not have a significant amount of Nickel in the alloy. As SS goes it is very workable and easily formed into seamed tubing and subsequent tubing bends. Its down side is lacking nickel it will get some minor surface rust but the rust structure is dense enough to effectively passivate the underlying surface and prevent further corrosion. If desired, it can be polished out but will again take on a caramel color in use that steadily shifts darker. Some rust spots will reappear.

Hope this helps
Wally

 

[Sierra1]

Whatever Honda used on the ST1300, should be used by everybody. It had that beautiful stainless "bronzing". . . . shiny as hell. . . . and no rust.

 

[Kurgan]

He did not own the bike very long. Prior owner was in Carolinas.

I lived up in the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina for a while and they put down more horrible ice melting materials than in the northern states. I watched my Tahoe rot before my eyes in a matter of 5 years - the frame was destroyed, all fasteners underneath were rotted away, front and rear differential covers had pinhole leaks due to rust.....it was a nightmare. And that was me washing the truck once a week, including the underbody.