Throttle cable adjustment

[Dirt_Dad]

I'm wondering if I'm just running into things that need to be replaced at 40K miles.

Today I found there was not enough play in the throttle. I took the cable adjuster and screwed it in as far as it would go. Everything is fine. Honestly I would have expected to be screwing the adjuster out as the cable stretches, but I'm doing the exact opposite. So I'm guessing the adjuster works on the return side and not the pulling side.

I assume from the terminology I'm using it's obvious I don't have a good understanding of the 2 cable throttle setup...guilty. I'm assuming that no more adjustment means time to replace both throttle cables. Seem like a reasonable assumption?

 

[RCinNC]

I dunno, Dirt Dad....I'm pushing 62,000 miles on my 2014, and I haven't encountered any issues up to this point that I'd attribute to things wearing out. I'm still on the original wheel bearings, fork seals, etc. The only things that have really worn out to this point have been brake pads and a lot of tires.

Of course, now that I've said that, I'll probably have a catastrophic failure tomorrow.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

Of course, now that I've said that, I'll probably have a catastrophic failure tomorrow.

For your sake, I hope that doesn't happen.

So far my only non-routine wear items have been a front brake disc and a horn. Never had any problem with fork seals either. Been through a couple of sets of rear brakes, and changed the front pads only to go with the new front disc.

But I'm out of ability to adjust the throttle cable any further. I'm guessing that will be an issue sooner or later...probably sooner.

 

[RCinNC]

Well, one thing the service manual says is that before you adjust the throttle play you should synchronize the throttle bodies. So were I in your shoes, I'd put the adjuster back to where it was before you changed it, do the TB synch, then readjust the free play and see if that makes a difference.

If you have a service manual, it's on page 3-34.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Your first thought should be the right one, the cable should get longer over time and require a small adjustment tighter, not loosening to the limit. Need to tip the tank one of these days and look around.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

Interesting...

I haven't done a TB sync since my 2012 model. I think I still have all the tubing necessary. Going to be a while before I have the time to dig into the bike. September is going to be a bit crazy for me.

 

[magic]

I'm wondering if I'm just running into things that need to be replaced at 40K miles.

Today I found there was not enough play in the throttle. I took the cable adjuster and screwed it in as far as it would go. Everything is fine. Honestly I would have expected to be screwing the adjuster out as the cable stretches, but I'm doing the exact opposite. So I'm guessing the adjuster works on the return side and not the pulling side.

I assume from the terminology I'm using it's obvious I don't have a good understanding of the 2 cable throttle setup...guilty. I'm assuming that no more adjustment means time to replace both throttle cables. Seem like a reasonable assumption?

There are threaded adjusters on the other end of the throttle cables too. There is probably a procedure to adjust them in the service manual.

 

[EricV]

What Magic said. Check the bottom end. Both cables have some adjustment possible at that end, where as only one has adjustment up by the bars. I'm wondering if something has come loose at the bottom. There is a lock nut on a threaded adjuster for each cable there. Because of the two cable design, if one came loose you may be compensating for it at the top.

Regardless, I suspect you can loosen the top adjuster again, adjust at the bottom and you will re-gain adjustment at the top.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

Check the bottom end. Both cables have some adjustment possible at that end, where as only one has adjustment up by the bars. I'm wondering if something has come loose at the bottom. There is a lock nut on a threaded adjuster for each cable there. Because of the two cable design, if one came loose you may be compensating for it at the top.

After reading everyone's input, that's what I'm expecting to find. Right now, I'm not hearing an out of sync TBS in my bike.

Having a V-Strom 1000 taught me to be pretty good at detecting an out of sync TBS. I could hear it in my 2012 Tenere and adjusted it. Took it to Romney and got them to check it after that. Their head tech said he'd never seen one out of sync back then. He told me mine was dead on, which confirmed my adjustment was needed and my mullet meter worked perfectly.

Whenever I get a chance to lift the tank I'll take pictures of what I find.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

Mystery still not solved.

Finally lifted the tank today. Everything looks in place.

Took the hand grip apart and sprayed some cable lube down the cables. Always a mess and I did not see any of it dripping out the bottom, but I never have. Maybe I need to use a full can for each cable I can finally see it drip at the other end.

The top cable adjuster is still as closed as ever. I do have enough play at the moment, but if the cable keeps (shrinking?) I'll be out of room.

 

[Nikolajsen]

What is going on with all that dirt.
(Sorry, could not control my self)

 

[ballisticexchris]

Another option is to ditch the push cable. Makes for an easier throttle pull. I do that on all my 4T bikes.

 

[TomZ]

It could be that the throttle cable assembly has been stretched. This happened to me. Apparently the cable assembly was stressed due to misrouting when I reattached it after a valve check. Handlebar risers might have also contributed. At first the throttle adjustment near the handlebar was just at the limit with no play in the throttle. The problem got progressively worse each time the cables were removed and reattached. Correcting the cable routing per the service manual did not cure the problem either. After several tries the throttle would no longer return on its own unless the return cable was left disconnected at the TB end. (The throttle returns just fine with the return cable disconnected at the TB end, but it's not recommended).

This problem completely stumped the techs at two authorized dealerships. After many missteps it was eventually solved by replacing the throttle cable assembly. (They're not very expensive -$35 to 40 online- but mine had to ship from Japan). Comparing the old and new cable assembles, I found that the original one had been stretched by about 10 mm.

Having said all this, I'm still not 100% sure why my cable assembly got stretched. FWIW Yamaha declined to replace the cable assembly on a YES warranty.

By the way, some folks wrote that the cables can be adjusted at the TB end. I'm not claiming any expertise here, but it does not appear to me that this is correct. Referring to the photo of the TB end in this thread, it appears that the cables will tighten to the same stop regardless of where the hex nut is started.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

What is going on with all that dirt.
(Sorry, could not control my self)

What dirt?

It could be that the throttle cable assembly has been stretched.

Interesting, theory. It's had bar risers for the last 40K miles. I guess I could see how that might result in the outside sheathing to get stretched. Seems plausable.

Looks like it would be very difficult to get a wrench in there to change out the cables. Appears I'd have to come up with a near 90 degree wrench to loosen those.

 

[RonH]

If you do replace the cables, cheap set of crowfoot metric open end wrenches from Harbor Freight work great when you don't have room for a full length open end. As some others have said, there is no adjustment for cables at the TBs, only the one inline adjustment up top. Handlebar height can really foul up push/pull throttle cables. I fought this on an old KZ1000 that I put lower bars on, and the problem was no longer a problem after going back to the factory bars.

 

[magic]

It could be that the throttle cable assembly has been stretched. This happened to me. Apparently the cable assembly was stressed due to misrouting when I reattached it after a valve check. Handlebar risers might have also contributed. At first the throttle adjustment near the handlebar was just at the limit with no play in the throttle. The problem got progressively worse each time the cables were removed and reattached. Correcting the cable routing per the service manual did not cure the problem either. After several tries the throttle would no longer return on its own unless the return cable was left disconnected at the TB end. (The throttle returns just fine with the return cable disconnected at the TB end, but it's not recommended).

This problem completely stumped the techs at two authorized dealerships. After many missteps it was eventually solved by replacing the throttle cable assembly. (They're not very expensive -$35 to 40 online- but mine had to ship from Japan). Comparing the old and new cable assembles, I found that the original one had been stretched by about 10 mm.

Having said all this, I'm still not 100% sure why my cable assembly got stretched. FWIW Yamaha declined to replace the cable assembly on a YES warranty.

By the way, some folks wrote that the cables can be adjusted at the TB end. I'm not claiming any expertise here, but it does not appear to me that this is correct. Referring to the photo of the TB end in this thread, it appears that the cables will tighten to the same stop regardless of where the hex nut is started.

I stand corrected. You are right about the cables not being adjustable at the TB end. I have a spare set in my panniers and dug them out to have a look. You are right, they are only about $35.

 

[BlueDog69]

has anyone twisted their throttle grip the other way, mine moves the top bit towards what ever that bit is with the screw

EDIT, just looked again, it operates a micro switch if you twist the throttle up or is this meant to be engaged when you release the throttle , thanks.

 

[scott123007]

has anyone twisted their throttle grip the other way, mine moves the top bit towards what ever that bit is with the screw

EDIT, just looked again, it operates a micro switch if you twist the throttle up or is this meant to be engaged when you release the throttle , thanks.

That micro switch is just another way to disengage your cruise control. It will not do it just by releasing the throttle, but if you deliberately turn it back, it will disengage.