Tenere Scared me the other day!

[nimac]

I've had similar behaviour on my KLR650, just conks out at low revs for no good reason, after much thought and checking electrics and finding nothing wrong, I investigated a different avenue. I had a good look at the valve clearances and the decompression set up. Now the exhaust valve just under the decomp gear was just near the minimum clearance, but still within specs, so I did the valve clearances anyway and increased it to near the max gap. Also after careful inspection of the decomp mechanism, decided to stretch the retainer springs just a tad (very carefully), so that it didn't reset to quick at low revs. It seemed to cure the problem, can't say if it was one action or the other, but it might be worth a look at the mechanical side of things rather than the ecu. My Gen1 has had a reflash before I bought it I was told and I have never had a stall issue, it pulls away from low speed beautifully.

 

[SHUMBA]

Have you tried just cycling the key several times before hitting start button? Mine hard starts occasionally if I’ve purchased less than desirable fuel.

Cycling the key, on off??
Hmmm....if this persists I'll give it a try.
I always use 91 octane gas and make a point of buying gas from busy gas stations.
SHUMBA

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk

 

[Nikolajsen]

Mine also do this...I just always start it again (without problems), with the starter.
Did it most before 1000 km, but it also happend twice recently (past 20000 km).

 

[Clawdog60]

Cycling the key, on off??
Hmmm....if this persists I'll give it a try.
I always use 91 octane gas and make a point of buying gas from busy gas stations.
SHUMBA

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk

Valve lash may be a contributor if they haven’t been checked. I cycle the key several times if the mine sits more than 3 days, fires right off then. Struggles if I don’t.

 

[elricfate]

You really shouldn't need to cycle the key more than once, maybe twice. The injectors fire upon turning it to "on" - which should be more than enough to start the beast.

 

[WJBertrand]

Ok besides the flash any other mods? When chasing this stuff down, I always try to eliminate things I have changed. Then move on to other items.

My Harley had a wicket backfire issue that was so bad I thought I had lost the engine. No one could tune My OEM computer correctly. I had put a full D&D exhaust with not cat on. My gas milage went down in the 20s, or the severity was cut back, but still around, with gas milage in the low 30s.

Then I replaced the computer with a Thunder Max with a auto tuner. Plug and play. Gas milage restored to the Mid 40s. And much more HP and Fun. $600 fix but it worked.

I would be interested In what other Mods you have.

I would also try one or two things.

1. Go back to stock map. Real pain to do. I would probably go the next step because it can be undone and returned if not fruitful.

2. Install a piggy back controller like the power commander with auto tune. Bet it would fix your problems.

Hope this helps

The only other mod is a Delkevic muffler, stock headers and cats are still installed. I actually had more of these random stalls before the bike was flashed, now it's extremely rare. Like I mentioned above with this happening so infrequently, I'd be hard pressed to say any change fixed it without a year's testing (unless it was much worse)

 

[Banderboy]

The stalling thing used to happen on my 2014...one of the many things I ended up hating about the bike and resulted in me buying a 2019 R1250GS...........

Just curious- why would you want to continue hanging around on a forum dedicated to a bike you hate?

 

[Top Ten]

I have not had my ST stall while in motion like WJBertrand did, but it does stall on a regular basis when taking off from a full stop (Or at least it used to. I have trained myself to over-gas it at take-off). Pull up to a stop sign, or waiting at a red light, get the green, begin take off, and "huff" it goes right out. It starts right back up, and I head out. I know it is not mismanagement of the clutch or throttle; it's more like the bike is very lean at idle and you catch it just right, and throttle application causes it to flame out. The bike is currently at a Yamaha dealer for this very reason.

Ha! Got a phone call from the Yamaha dealer while I was typing this. Service Tech says they test rode my bike and it stalled on them. They guess, as I did, that EPA restrictions call for lean settings, and that contributes to stalling. Tech is recommending an after-market re-flash. I'm sure many on this forum will agree. I will try to keep you informed...

 

[WJBertrand]

Thanks, I'll just remember to use my starter button in tight quarters if it happens again - probably not until sometime next year!

 

[MFP]

Have you tried just cycling the key several times before hitting start button?

What exactly is “cycling the key” and how is it done?

 

[Clawdog60]

What exactly is “cycling the key” and how is it done?

Turn on turn off

 

[John Ha]

I wonder whether one of the safety devices, like the kickstand switch, could also be causing the issue. Personally I'd be inclined to check those and maybe bypass them to see whether it cured the issue. If one of those switches is adjusted on the edge of the tolerance it may be possible for a bump to jar the machine enough to cause the switch to show an unsafe condition. Stupid question, I suppose, but have you checked for fault codes?

 

[Clawdog60]

You really shouldn't need to cycle the key more than once, maybe twice. The injectors fire upon turning it to "on" - which should be more than enough to start the beast.

No you shouldn’t but it does work on fuel injected motorcycles that have sat for a lengthy period of time. Energize the injector with every turn of the key? I wouldn’t think so until the engine has rotated to the timing point but I don’t know for sure.

 

[Clawdog60]

I wonder whether one of the safety devices, like the kickstand switch, could also be causing the issue. Personally I'd be inclined to check those and maybe bypass them to see whether it cured the issue. If one of those switches is adjusted on the edge of the tolerance it may be possible for a bump to jar the machine enough to cause the switch to show an unsafe condition. Stupid question, I suppose, but have you checked for fault codes?

I wonder how far the kick stand would have to drop to kill the engine. I could see a heel pushing down on it at the wrong time or a severe bump. Should be the same travel while stopped in gear to check cut out.

 

[twinrider]

The stalling problem plagued my Africa Twin and Honda couldn't fix it. That's why I sold it.

Zero problems with stalling on my Gen 1 over 60,000 km. None on my Gen II with 25,000 km. Both were flashed, but no stalling before flashing either.

 

[WJBertrand]

I'm planning to have a look at the side stand switch and maybe blast it out with some contact cleaner, but I'm doubtful that's the issue as there's no sensitivity to bumps otherwise. I'm beginning to think this is just a characteristic of big 270 degree, "lean jetted", light flywheel twins. The uneven firing intervals means there's a relatively long period where the crank is more or less coasting until the next push from the pistons.

To an earlier question, nope no fault codes. In my experience you don't really have to check for them as they appear front and center on the panel.

 

[rfulcher]

For a brief period last fall my 2013 would cut off occasionally without warning and the would restart with the button. It usually happened while cruising or accelerating hard (it was a bummer during a high speed pass). Occasionally it would have severe hesitation when accelerating but not shut down. At around the same time it would occasionally do the hard start thing. This occurred rarely and unpredictably and was hard to replicate.

I found a clutch switch with very erratic and unpredictable functioning. It responded well to flushing with circuit cleaner. I replaced the battery. I also found a white connector under the right side cover and near the battery that had a lot of very fine dust. I think that repairing the clutch switch or the new battery was what cured the problem. I suspect a flaky battery was the problem.

 

[Jeff Milleman]

Thanks for the Info Riley8 I'll look into that...... Very Interesting.......

 

[Sierra1]

….I'm beginning to think this is just a characteristic of big 270 degree, "lean jetted", light flywheel twins....

I'm not saying that it isn't....but, my ST1300 would do the same thing if I started the motor, took off quickly, and backed off of the throttle; I would restart with the button. It would only die the first time I backed off of the throttle, and not again; until I turned it off, and it cooled off. My buddie had the same bike, and his NEVER did it. MY Jeep will lurch EVERY time I take off from a stop, unless I slightly over rev the motor; manual transmission. MY opinion is that occasionally the computer/program "hiccups". I don't think there IS a fix.

 

[dcstrom]

That's one of the symptoms that the wiring harness recall was supposed to fix. Not sure if it applied to the '15 model, but worth checking.