TB sync difficulty

[parabomber]

So I finally got around to doing my TB sync, trying to resolve the jumpiness when rolling onto the throttle in sport mode despite a 2WDW tune, arrow headers, and an akrapovic.

I installed a new air filter while I was in there before starting.

I found I had the right TB painted white and screwed all the way in. I did a 3/4 turnout on the white screw, hooked it up and started up; the left was reading 202 and the right about 212. The right had almost no room left to screw in (bringing it's numbers up). The only way I was able to sync the TBs was to screw the left in fully and take the white screw (right) out probably 4 turns; it's now protruding from the TB. This got them both at around 205.

Riding it around, the off-idle hitch/jumpiness was no better, but now the bike seemed capable of stalling when I popped the gas during some downshifts. It's not too bad, only once or twice, but it seems to run less smooth than before.

I'm getting a new battery for my sync tool as I've heard that can affect the readings tomorrow, but any suggestions of that doesn't resolve the problem?

 

[StefanOnHisS10]

Did you warm the bike up before the sync?
And are your spark plugs in good condition, including measurements of the gap?

 

[~TABASCO~]

I can see why if the (R) white was screwed out 4 turns. They are pretty darn sensitive...

If I could maybe make a suggestion-

Warm the bike up 185*ish. Turn the white painted mark TB all the way in and then back out 3/4 turn. (you are now done with the white painted mark- no need to touch that again) Now go to the other side and adjust the non-what paint mark to match the other side. It "normally" should be totally in sync within 1-2 turns max. (this is not in stone, just my experience) Many times you can get them 100% with less than one turn + or - .

Does your machine allow and take in account for the extra pressure tube on the left side? This must be hooked up while you SYNC your TB's...

If you have any questions just let me know... Thanks

 

[parabomber]

I can see why if the (R) white was screwed out 4 turns. They are pretty darn sensitive...

If I could maybe make a suggestion-

Warm the bike up 185*ish. Turn the white painted mark TB all the way in and then back out 3/4 turn. (you are now done with the white painted mark- no need to touch that again) Now go to the other side and adjust the non-what paint mark to match the other side. It "normally" should be totally in sync within 1-2 turns max. (this is not in stone, just my experience) Many times you can get them 100% with less than one turn + or - .

Does your machine allow and take in account for the extra pressure tube on the left side? This must be hooked up while you SYNC your TB's...

If you have any questions just let me know... Thanks

I had the bike nice and hot, rode it about 30 minutes prior. Was sitting around 190. I initially did as you described; turn the white screw 3/4 out, then try and adjust the left to match. But I needed to screw the left in to raise the numbers on that side (202) to match the right (212), and it bottomed out almost immediately, leaving me at around 205 L -- 212 R.

I am using a Digisync, I have a T-connector on the left plugged into both the sensor and the TB. The Digisync just has an on/off button. The lengths are about equal on either side.

 

[~TABASCO~]

I had the bike nice and hot, rode it about 30 minutes prior. Was sitting around 190. I initially did as you described; turn the white screw 3/4 out, then try and adjust the left to match. But I needed to screw the left in to raise the numbers on that side (202) to match the right (212), and it bottomed out almost immediately, leaving me at around 205 L -- 212 R.

I am using a Digisync, I have a T-connector on the left plugged into both the sensor and the TB. The Digisync just has an on/off button. The lengths are about equal on either side.

Strange-

You can try reversing sides. Do the same procedure but opposite. If it doesn't work it could easily put back.... Ive not experienced what you describe on a Tenere before. ( I have on other bikes, but not the Tenere)

 

[parabomber]

Strange-

You can try reversing sides. Do the same procedure but opposite. If it doesn't work it could easily put back.... Ive not experienced what you describe on a Tenere before. ( I have on other bikes, but not the Tenere)

That's what I effectively ended up doing, although I screwed the left all the way in, then screwed the right out until it was close. It runs worse now as far as I can tell than when it was 10mb out of sync. I'll verify my tool is working right but, if that checks out I'm at a loss. Maybe I'll have to pull and clean them. The bike only has 8k miles despite being a 2014.

Did you warm the bike up before the sync?
And are your spark plugs in good condition, including measurements of the gap?

I have the plugs and gap checker but have been lazy about getting the socket and doing them. It's on my list next. The low mileage makes me think they're fine but couldn't hurt.

 

[jbrown]

If you suspect the Digisync battery, try reversing the lines to the digisync and see if the high side follows the Digisync connection.

 

[parabomber]

If you suspect the Digisync battery, try reversing the lines to the digisync and see if the high side follows the Digisync connection.

I just tested the existing battery (its good) and also replaced it anyways to be sure with a brand new one. I'll also test as you said to make sure its not the tool, as well as connect both sides of the tool to one TB and make sure they match. I expect the tool not to be at fault though; was hoping there was some solution or someone else had run into this.

Is it possible I need to clean the TBs? At only 8k I'd think not but I may have to resort to it. Otherwise if all else fails I may need to do the APS fix to get rid of this stupid off-idle hitch.

 

[JJTJ2]

If you have the multi lined version of the Digisync, did you leave them open or did you plug them off? According to what I remember reading on the Digisync they have to be left open for it to read accurately

 

[parabomber]

If you have the multi lined version of the Digisync, did you leave them open or did you plug them off? According to what I remember reading on the Digisync they have to be left open for it to read accurately

I'm a cheap bastard and got the 2-line version so no extra lines to worry about