Stripped oil pan dilemma

[Chefdave]

Plan to leave on a 4000 mile roadtrip on Friday. So I did an oil change today...and managed to strip the oil pan.

On examination, the previous owner had already stripped it and retapped it for a 14mm bolt.

Looking for advice on best & quickest repair which hopefully
doesn't involve replacing the pan.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Don in Lodi]

They make a universal rubber plug that works well in the automotive world. You tighten the plug on the outside and on the inside it expands to seal the hole.

 

[Squibb]

They make a universal rubber plug that works well in the automotive world. You tighten the plug on the outside and on the inside it expands to seal the hole.

Any pics/links?

I've only seen this type in the UK ............. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-MINI-FORD-VW-VAN-EMERGENCY-SUMP-PLUG-FIT-ALL-MODELS-EXCEPT-HONDA/182629143604?hash=item2a858b9434:g:rJoAAOSwdGFY4CdE

Plentiful supply of re-tapping kits though, but whether there is enough meat left in the pan to take it up another size is the question

 

[Dogdaze]

Do a 'get you going' repair, order a new pan and have it installed when you return. From previous posts I think @ $75, cheap enough to remove doubt for future rides.

 

[EricV]

You're not the first to do this. Options are available.

Self tapping drain plug from most auto parts stores. 1/2" size usually works well.

Time Sert thread repair device. Solid insert that if done correctly can last the life of the bike.

Helicoil insert. Harder to get right, not as stable for something that routinely gets removed and replaced, but still viable solution.

New Pan. Check for availability, you might be surprised and be able to get one over night, (for extra $$$).

Remove pan, have it welded and re-tapped by a local shop. Cost about what a new pan will cost.

Good luck!

 

[RCinNC]

I wouldn't try and re-tap the drain hole while the pan is still on the bike. It's a little tougher to do it accurately, plus the risk of metal shavings getting into the oil pan.

If you're looking for a down and dirty fix just to get going, I'd probably just JB Weld the drain bolt into the oil pan and leave on the trip. In a worst case scenario during the trip, you could vacuum out any oil with a Mity Vac if you had to. Once you're back, if you want to try and salvage the old pan, you can remove it, grind off the JB Weld with a Dremel tool, and try to re-tap the hole. Or buy a new oil pan.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Squib, we have those here too. I've never liked those much, they only seal on the outside. These seal a whole lot better. And with the hole already punched out to 14mm, I can't believe there's much material left for tapping and inserting things. It's even possible that a crack may have happened down the side of the hole with all the abuse it's aready taken.

 

[Dogdaze]

Squib, we have those here too. I've never liked those much, they only seal on the outside. These seal a whole lot better. And with the hole already punched out to 14mm, I can't believe there's much material left for tapping and inserting things. It's even possible that a crack may have happened down the side of the hole with all the abuse it's aready taken.

Can get those from any plumbing hardware store

 

[Don in Lodi]

Can get those from any plumbing hardware store

::008:: That pic is off the NAPA site...

 

[Squibb]

Thanks guys; a new one on me. Should sort the OP out ftb.

I found a short Youtube vid showing the same hardware ............... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdAvBAJaBwQ

 

[jpward]

Well I managed to strip both oil drain bolts on my ST. (blaming it on a faulty torque wrench, but it was likely my fault!)
I replaced the oil pan myself, and I am a novice mechanic. I thought about thread inserts, but was concerned I had gotten shredded metal in the crankcase.
The brand new oil pan and gaskets were $275.
Here is a good video on the project:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2s7OrhrD0g

 

[OldRider]

Well I managed to strip both oil drain bolts on my ST. (blaming it on a faulty torque wrench, but it was likely my fault!)
I replaced the oil pan myself, and I am a novice mechanic. I thought about thread inserts, but was concerned I had gotten shredded metal in the crankcase.
The brand new oil pan and gaskets were $275.
Here is a good video on the project:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2s7OrhrD0g

Tap those old stripped holes out to 1/2 x 20, put in a couple drain plugs and it will be as good as new. When 12mm strips out, it's a perfect fit for a 1/2 tap.

 

[Nikolajsen]

Tap those old stripped holes out to 1/2 x 20, put in a couple drain plugs and it will be as good as new. When 12mm strips out, it's a perfect fit for a 1/2 tap.

And then you have a spare...for your self, or someone that had an accident with their own, and need a repair urgent..

 

[EricV]

or someone that had an accident with their own, and need a repair urgent

This is a very good idea. ::008:: Sadly, this happens more often than it should, but there have been several people that might have jumped on a chance to buy someone's repaired oil pan due to time pressures. It's not like a dealer will stock this part and sometimes it's the luck of the draw on how long it takes to get one from a parts source. Fix it and put it on the For Sale board for 50% of new price. It may really save someone's epic long trip to have it immediately available to ship off.

 

[RCinNC]

Tap those old stripped holes out to 1/2 x 20, put in a couple drain plugs and it will be as good as new. When 12mm strips out, it's a perfect fit for a 1/2 tap.

That's another handy maintenance tip that I've added to my "Super Tenere Quick Reference Guide" that goes with me everywhere on my phone. Thanks!

 

[richarddacat]

Kinda curious, is there a design flaw, too thin of metal, too high of torque specs or do we have some operator error going on?

 

[EricV]

Kinda curious, is there a design flaw, too thin of metal, too high of torque specs or do we have some operator error going on?

No. . Just operator error. If you feel the need to use a torque wrench on the drain plugs, please seek additional training, before you turn wrenches on your vehicles.

 

[RCinNC]

I don't know why some guys reef so hard on that drain bolt that it gets stripped. It isn't like you're tightening the bolts on the hatch of a spacecraft in a vacuum. I've always done the drain bolts as "snug it by hand and then tighten it just a little bit more with a socket wrench", especially knowing that the threads are cut into aluminum. The crush washer is there to help seal the bolt, so you don't have to put a lot of muscle on it. My torque wrench never comes out for a job like that.

 

[richarddacat]

+1

Snap-on makes a fool proof ratchet for when you’re in those unlikely positions that may help;

 

[RonH]

I always torque mine. The value is very low, something along the lines of 14ft/lb. (Too lazy to look at the manual right now), but in any case, whether using a torque wrench or just going by feel, the bolts don't need much torque.