Sticky Ignition Switch

Ironhand

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Beginning last summer, my ignition switch started sticking badly enough that I thought I was going to be stranded on a few trips. The bike only has about 12,000 miles on it so the key hasn't been in and out of it a million times. I have tried everything I can think of from swapping to my unused spare key thinking the original may be worn, graphite dry lube, blasting the switch out with brake cleaner and compressed air, etc. I don't mind buying a new switch less the annoyance of having the ignition, seat lock, and cases separately keyed. Does anyone have any genius ideas that might get me going again?
 

~TABASCO~

RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
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Have you run any type of picks in the key hole and really looked around. I have seen this before where a small rock sitting up next to the key, when the key was pulled out there was enough dust and dirt around the little trap door that the little rock fell in the key hole. It acted like yours until we used a vacuum and pick to get out the rock(s).

In your case it could be any type of debris. Keep in mind that it might be stuck in the tumblers and not sitting in the bottom. You will need to use some picks or very small instruments to feel your way down the tumblers all the way to the bottom to get out the debris. This is much easier when the lock is upside down, but its a PITA to pull all the triple tree all out. After you get out the debris, "wash" it out with a lubricant of your choice to get all the other crap out. Again, this has worked best up side down.

If you like, you can also drill out the two big rivets holding in the ignition and then just add two 12 mm bolts (I believe). If you need to clean it again, just take out the bolts. If you need a new ignition on the future, just take out the bolts... The rivets are soft and easy to remove.

More than likely there is just debris that fell into the ignition hole that needs to come out.
 

Shuckers

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Beginning last summer, my ignition switch started sticking badly enough that I thought I was going to be stranded on a few trips. The bike only has about 12,000 miles on it so the key hasn't been in and out of it a million times. I have tried everything I can think of from swapping to my unused spare key thinking the original may be worn, graphite dry lube, blasting the switch out with brake cleaner and compressed air, etc. I don't mind buying a new switch less the annoyance of having the ignition, seat lock, and cases separately keyed. Does anyone have any genius ideas that might get me going again?
I had the exact same problem, key would go into the ignition but would not turn. Spray a little WD40 into the key hole using the thin tube that comes with the can. No more sticking ignition.
 

Sierra1

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TABASCO's is likely the better/correct way, but, I'm with Shuckers. Douche the hell out off it with WD-40, and blow it out with an air nozzle. I can't mechanic like TABASCO. :oops:
 

fac191

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I had this put a tiny bit of wd40 in and bingo. Agree with da proper method though.
 

mran

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I just flushed mine. Was surprised how much shit came out. Pop the triple off, disconnect the switch. Drill the security bolts out, flush switch with brake cleaner or contact cleaner. Clean and lube the circuit board (that was my issue) so much shit in there and some corrosion, lube key tumbler and throw it back together. Get new bolts from the hardware store
 

mran

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TABASCO's is likely the better/correct way, but, I'm with Shuckers. Douche the hell out off it with WD-40, and blow it out with an air nozzle. I can't mechanic like TABASCO. :oops:
I wouldn't may short the switch.. wd anyway. Contact cleaner and a little lube if you dont wanna totally disassemble it
 

Ironhand

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Thanks all. I'll try the picks and vacuum first, then get to pulling the switch to blast it out if that doesn't work. Its supposed to be in the 40s and rainy here this weekend anyway, so a good one for some garage time.
 

swakop_toe

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Bit of a thread necro, but I have a similar situation with combined headlight issue.
My ignition have been sticky for a year or so. Used a graphite type spray (Q5?)
and sorted out the difficulty turning it.
This morning I noticed my headlights wont turn on at all.
When I turn the ignition to shut the bike off, I can see the headlights flash, on-off,
but does not flash on-off when I turn the ignition to the ON position.

Does the head lights rely on a ignition barrel pin to switch on?

Edit: made a shirt video as well.
Apologies for the generator noise, rolling blackouts here in South Africa.
 
Last edited:

eemsreno

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The first thing to look at if your headlights won't come on, Remove the right side covers of the fairing and find the main headlight wire connecter, pull it apart and see if the connecter is burnt at all.
 

Fennellg

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I dipped my key in motor oil. Had some Mobil 1 15w 50 left over from my Harley days. Did the trick when nothing seemed to fix it permanently. Rinse and repeat as many times as you like.

We had some gate pad locks that were not working. Did the same thing with dip stick from the Tundra blocking vehicle. Was desperate to get things sewed up. Cold dark rainy. Worked like a champ. For some reason locks like thicker oil. Use what is at hand. And always remember there are always possibilities. Don’t panic and you will come up with something,
 
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Sierra1

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The problem with oil, light or heavy, is that it attracts dust/dirt. At least around here. Sorta the same thing is Blaster Garage door lube. It goes on/in wet but dries and doesn't gather gunk. I got it for my garage doors after looking at other alternative lubes. If you have doors with those rollers, you have to get some of this. It's fantastic. Doors are almost silent, and there's no dirt being gathered. I've also been using it on locks and latches. Not sure if it would be good in an ignition though.
1673664485240.png
 

Bill_C

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The problem with oil, light or heavy, is that it attracts dust/dirt. At least around here. Sorta the same thing is Blaster Garage door lube. It goes on/in wet but dries and doesn't gather gunk. I got it for my garage doors after looking at other alternative lubes. If you have doors with those rollers, you have to get some of this. It's fantastic. Doors are almost silent, and there's no dirt being gathered. I've also been using it on locks and latches. Not sure if it would be good in an ignition though.
View attachment 98217
Dang, learn something new every day. Thanks for that. I'm gonna pick some up this weekend.

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Drif10

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My ignition switch was getting wonky at 8 years old.

Took the triple off, cut off the security bolts to expose the contacts. Lots of crap and corrosion. Cleaned, light smear of dielectric grease.

Rinsed the lock tumblers with WD40 then blew them dry. Then a shot of dry graphite lube and worked that in to the tumblers.

Reassemble. Works properly now.
 

scott123007

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Bit of a thread necro, but I have a similar situation with combined headlight issue.
My ignition have been sticky for a year or so. Used a graphite type spray (Q5?)
and sorted out the difficulty turning it.
This morning I noticed my headlights wont turn on at all.
When I turn the ignition to shut the bike off, I can see the headlights flash, on-off,
but does not flash on-off when I turn the ignition to the ON position.

Does the head lights rely on a ignition barrel pin to switch on?

Edit: made a shirt video as well.
Apologies for the generator noise, rolling blackouts here in South Africa.
Can't really say why your lights won't come on (or stay on) after you start it, but the reason you don't see the same "flash" of light when you turn your key on vs when you turn it off, is because you have not started it yet.
 

swakop_toe

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Cape Town, South Africa
Ok, contact cleaner sprayed the hell out of the ignition barrell.
Also every plug, connector, fuse and checked for cable pinches.
All working perfect again.
Just bloody relieved it is not the ignition or key.
Thanks for all the tips.

PS: also swapped the fan fuse to a 10A one.

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McJeep

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PS: also swapped the fan fuse to a 10A one.
hmmmmmm, electric motors and the wiring to supply them etc is all smoke and mirror shyt that engineers get good $$$ to figure out - why not replace the fuse with the regular size? Not sure if I missed a one liner in the thread but using larger fuses to solve an issue never seems like a good idea

1673814145400.png
 
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