Fennellg
Well-Known Member
I am better than our guy who is chronic, but I mess up once in a while. Just trying not to be that guy. Although senas are infiltrating our group. 4 out of 5 have them.
ST2 Smart Turn System Installation
- Thread starter Uturnrick
- Start date
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
Not quite sure how the timer function decides when to shut off as it seems variable. If you are just riding down a straight, smooth road and turn on the indicator without doing anything else, I've had it go for 30-40 seconds. I think there must be some kind of logic in there that senses movement, but isn't matching what's programmed to be a lane change movement, so doesn't cancel immediately but then seems to time out sooner. Most of the time (60-70% of the time) it immediately cancels after a lane change.
Living in SoCal and traversing LA freeways full of traffic on occasion, I've not found the timing out feature to be a problem. If you're stopped, say in a line of cars waiting for a turn, the indicators do not seem to time out at all.
Fennellg
Well-Known Member
I have read the installation instructions and watched YouTube s. It has to mounted facing forward and level as possible. It has sensors. It's a smart turn system 
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B
ballisticexchris
Guest
Holy crap! Now I’m thinking of getting one. How did I let you guys talk me into this? LOLI have read the installation in strict ions and watched YouTube s. It has to mounted facing forward and level as possible. It has sensors. It's a smart turn system
SparrowHawkxx
Active Member
Got the STS Ordered
I got my STS ordered and installed, it’s been almost a month ago and just now getting around to posting some installation information.
There are a couple of other threads that have some installation information in them so they might be worth a look. I’ll list them here just in case someone has not seen them.
Too many times I find my turn signal on, miles after I made a turn, I guess it’s a getting older thing. I had never heard of this STS thing until about a month ago on the thread “Self Canceling Turn Signs....???”, WJBertrand mentioned it and was very pleased with it.
It sounded good but I could not find any installation information on their website. I searched around and found a direct path to an Installation Page that had an installation video and manual, but I still have not found a way to navigate to it from their website.
Looking at the installation manual, I saw that the instructions have you cutting wires in the OEM wiring harness to the signal switch. I did not really care for that idea. Anyway, I was about to move on and forget about it if it weren’t for the positive reviews and it sounded like something I could really use.
So I pressed on and decided, instead of cutting OEM wires I would make a jumper and connect to the STS that way.
Ordering the STS
Feb 28, 2019 – ordered STS from their website and got 20% off. https://safer-turn.com/
I got the Smart Turn System (STS) installed on my 2013 Super Tenere a couple of days after I received it. I have not had a chance to ride much, just a few short rides, but so far I am very pleased with it.
I will post some information that I have learned, hopefully it will be useful for someone doing the installation or thinking about it.
I got my STS ordered and installed, it’s been almost a month ago and just now getting around to posting some installation information.
There are a couple of other threads that have some installation information in them so they might be worth a look. I’ll list them here just in case someone has not seen them.
“STS Smart Turn self-canceling turn system thingy review”
“Self Canceling Turn Signs....???”
Too many times I find my turn signal on, miles after I made a turn, I guess it’s a getting older thing. I had never heard of this STS thing until about a month ago on the thread “Self Canceling Turn Signs....???”, WJBertrand mentioned it and was very pleased with it.
It sounded good but I could not find any installation information on their website. I searched around and found a direct path to an Installation Page that had an installation video and manual, but I still have not found a way to navigate to it from their website.
Looking at the installation manual, I saw that the instructions have you cutting wires in the OEM wiring harness to the signal switch. I did not really care for that idea. Anyway, I was about to move on and forget about it if it weren’t for the positive reviews and it sounded like something I could really use.
So I pressed on and decided, instead of cutting OEM wires I would make a jumper and connect to the STS that way.
Ordering the STS
Feb 28, 2019 – ordered STS from their website and got 20% off. https://safer-turn.com/
$ 99 USD, minus the 20% discount they email you, plus shipping - total cost to me was $88.19
Mar 18, 2019 – received STS in the mail (Received 18 days after ordering)I got the Smart Turn System (STS) installed on my 2013 Super Tenere a couple of days after I received it. I have not had a chance to ride much, just a few short rides, but so far I am very pleased with it.
I will post some information that I have learned, hopefully it will be useful for someone doing the installation or thinking about it.
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SparrowHawkxx
Active Member
General Information about the STS
I only have experience working with my 2013, Gen 1 model so any information that I provide about the Gen 2 is just from what I have read and what others have posted. See the other two threads mentioned in my reply above.
I will start out with just some general information about the STS, Gen 1 and Gen 2 differences, and some things about the STS Installation Manual. After that I will post some notes about my installation.
STS home page: https://safer-turn.com
STS SPECIFICATIONS
Unit dimensions: 32x32x45 mm ----------------------(1.26” x 1.26” x 1.77”)
Unit weight: 155 g ------------------------------------(5.5 oz)
Housing: Reinforced automotive-grade polyamide
Power supply: 12 VDC
Consumption: 250 mW --------------------------------(P=VI, that’s about 0.02 Amps)
Cable length: 50 cm -----------------------------------(19.7”)
Gen 1 and Gen 2 differences
The Gen 1 and Gen 2 models have different part numbers for the left handlebar switch assembly.
Gen 2 has the same part number for both the ES and non ES models.
The left handlebar switch assembly consists of the switch housing on the handlebar, signal switch, and wire harness with a connector on the end that plugs into the bike’s electrical system.
STS Installation Manual and video
I could not find a way to navigate to any installation information from the STS home page but doing a search I did find a direct path to an STS Installation Page. https://safer-turn.com/installation/
The Installation Page has:
The back page has a wire color chart to help you locate the 3 wires to be cut (Right Turn Signal, Left Turn Signal, and Flasher Relay).
Wire Color Chart
The wire color chart lists the wire colors for Yamaha as:
There is also superscript 2 In the Yamaha column. See the footnote at the bottom of the table:
NOTE: In the table they just use the term Signal, this is the wire from the flasher/Hazard Relay on the motorcycle.
STS Installation Manual – Older Version
The STS that I just received on Mar 18, 2019 had a paper copy of an older version of the installation manual in the box.
This older version just has one set of colors for Yamaha, it does not the colors for the Gen 2 models.
To download a pdf file for the older version (STS_install_manual_FINAL_V6.pdf --current version.pdf):
I only have experience working with my 2013, Gen 1 model so any information that I provide about the Gen 2 is just from what I have read and what others have posted. See the other two threads mentioned in my reply above.
I will start out with just some general information about the STS, Gen 1 and Gen 2 differences, and some things about the STS Installation Manual. After that I will post some notes about my installation.
STS home page: https://safer-turn.com
STS SPECIFICATIONS
Unit dimensions: 32x32x45 mm ----------------------(1.26” x 1.26” x 1.77”)
Unit weight: 155 g ------------------------------------(5.5 oz)
Housing: Reinforced automotive-grade polyamide
Power supply: 12 VDC
Consumption: 250 mW --------------------------------(P=VI, that’s about 0.02 Amps)
Cable length: 50 cm -----------------------------------(19.7”)
I measured the cable length at 21” to the end of the loose wire, not including the connectors.
Outer insulation was 18”, and then another 3” of loose wire at the end (21” total).
Gen 1 and Gen 2 differences
The Gen 1 and Gen 2 models have different part numbers for the left handlebar switch assembly.
Gen 2 has the same part number for both the ES and non ES models.
The left handlebar switch assembly consists of the switch housing on the handlebar, signal switch, and wire harness with a connector on the end that plugs into the bike’s electrical system.
Gen 1 – The connector is an unsealed connector. The female end goes up to the switch housing and the male end goes to the electrical system on the bike.
To locate the connector, see picture in “Self Canceling Turn Signs....???” Reply #21
Gen 2 – The connector is a sealed connector. The female end goes up to the switch housing and the male end goes to the electrical system on the bike.
To locate the connector, see picture in “STS Smart Turn self-canceling turn system thingy review” Reply #24
See the 2nd and 3rd pictures, there are two large black boots and it looks to me like the connector is in the top one.
STS Installation Manual and video
I could not find a way to navigate to any installation information from the STS home page but doing a search I did find a direct path to an STS Installation Page. https://safer-turn.com/installation/
The Installation Page has:
- short installation video
- link to a current version of the STS Installation Manual (STS_install_manual_ENv3.pdf)
The back page has a wire color chart to help you locate the 3 wires to be cut (Right Turn Signal, Left Turn Signal, and Flasher Relay).
Wire Color Chart
The wire color chart lists the wire colors for Yamaha as:
Right Signal – Dark Green, Left Signal – Chocolate, and flasher/Hazard Relay (Signal) – Brown/White.
These are the right colors for the Gen 1 models.
There is also superscript 2 In the Yamaha column. See the footnote at the bottom of the table:
2* Yamaha MT-10: Right – White/Yellow, Signal – Blue/Red, Left – White/Black
These are the colors for the Yamaha MT-10. These are also the right colors for the Gen 2 models.
NOTE: In the table they just use the term Signal, this is the wire from the flasher/Hazard Relay on the motorcycle.
STS Installation Manual – Older Version
The STS that I just received on Mar 18, 2019 had a paper copy of an older version of the installation manual in the box.
This older version just has one set of colors for Yamaha, it does not the colors for the Gen 2 models.
To download a pdf file for the older version (STS_install_manual_FINAL_V6.pdf --current version.pdf):
See the attachment in “Self Canceling Turn Signs....???” Reply #20
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SparrowHawkxx
Active Member
There were a couple of issues I had on the installation.
These are simple things but could save someone some time if they know about them.
These are simple things but could save someone some time if they know about them.
- In Step 3 of the installation, after the first five wires are connected, the manual instructs you to ”turn the ignition on, one or two flashes will appear.” Their installation video calls this the calibration sequence and they show the left signal flash once then the right signal flash once so that’s what I was expecting to see.
The first time I went through the sequence, I saw the left signal flash but nothing on the right. So I went through the sequence again, this time I focused on looking at the right signal, I saw the left signal flash then a very short flash on the right signal. I saw both flashes so I was not concerned and went to the next step, but when I had a problem there it made me concerned if just getting the short flash was a problem
- In Step 5, after the last 3 wires were connected, the installation was complete so it was time to test it. I turned the ignition on and activated the signal switch but nothing flashed. I tried again but there were no calibration flashes and when I activated the signal there was no signal flashing. I double and triple checked all the wiring and it all looked right. So I completely took the STS out of the system, easy to do by using a jumper. Back to the original configuration and everything worked normal. So I quit for the day.
I found a YouTube installation video and an interesting thing happened, the guy got to the same point I did then stopped the video. When he started back up again he explained that he had to do some trouble shooting, he had inserted the foam pads too far into the switch so he repositioned them and it was fine.
So the next morning I reconnected the STS and repositioned the foam pads. I put them into the slot in the switch just far enough so I could get the switch housing back together. Everything worked perfectly after that. I am not sure how but the way the pads were positioned must have been preventing the switch from making contact.
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SparrowHawkxx
Active Member
Installation – Reference the STS Installation Manual, Steps 1-6
On my installation I followed the instructions for the most part but I did not be cut any OEM wires as directed in Step 2 of the instructions and I used different connectors than what was supplied. The only connectors I used that were supplied with the STS were the 2 red male quick disconnect connectors at the end of the STS red and black wires.
I built a jumper to make the connections to the 6 STS wires within the jumper. You just unplug the switch housing connector where it plugs into the bike electrical system and plug in the jumper between the two connectors.
The other 2 STS wires (red and black) are connected to switched 12 V and ground. I just happened to have some matching female quick disconnect connectors that I used to crimp onto wires that I ran down to my PC-8 fuse box.
Step 1
“Locate the cable coming from the left handlebar switch and find an accessible spot.”
They are just telling you to find a good place to cut into the cable coming from the switch, it could be anywhere between the switch and the connector where it plugs into the electrical system on the bike, but I think normally the best place would be just before the connector.
You just want to make sure you got the correct connector and the correct wires.
I think that’s the main thing to get out of this step whether you are going to be making the connections as per the instructions or building a jumper to make the connections.
If you need help finding the connector, see the notes on Gen 1 and Gen 2 differences in the reply above.
The wire colors for the 3 wires that you will need can be found in the wire color chart in the STS Installation Manual.
You should still confirm for yourself that you have located the correct wires.
Steps 2 -5
I did Step 6 next and then came back and built the jumper as I went through Steps 2-5.
I made the connections as per the instructions, I was just using different connectors.
The jumper will have wires that are jumpered straight across between the connectors for the wires that are not used in the STS installation. The 3 wires that are to be cut according to the STS instructions will not have jumper wires between the connectors in those 3 positions, so in effect they are cut.
Also, if there is a blank position in your OEM connector, there is no need for a jumper wire in that position either.
I will post some more information on building the jumper in another reply.
The only issues I had in Steps 2-5 are what I discussed in the reply above, on the right signal short flash and the positioning of the foam pads.
NOTE:
See the next reply below, I added some more information on taking the switch housing apart and inserting the foam pads in the signal switch. Also some info on confirming the wires colors by using the terminals inside the signal switch.
Step 6
“Attach the STS unit to firm mounting spot. Logo must be pointing upwards and arrow in driving direction.”
See more information on the back page of the instructions, in the section Attach STS unit to firm mounting spot.
I wanted to find a good place to mount the STS and see how I would route the cable before I did anything else.
Since I was building a jumper to do my installation I also wanted to see where my jumper plugs would be located and if the loose wires at the end of the STS cable were long enough.
I cut another inch off the outer insulation on the STS wiring harness so I had 4” of loose wire at the end. This gives you better flexibility to position the jumper connectors when the STS wires are attached.
See Picture below.
You can see, there should be enough cable length to mount the STS about anywhere you want in the electrical area. The STS is at the top of the picture and the end of the wiring harness is at the bottom.
I think this is a good place to mount it, on the top shelf above the electrical tray.
This shelf slopes down then back up to form a V shape. The STS needs to be level, as required by the instructions, so you could place it in the saddle of the V and make it level by resting the corners on the sides of the V.
The only problem is I have already used that space for other stuff. There is a Heat Troller module for my heated grips that is secured with the 2 zip ties, under the twisted blue and white wires in the picture. That will need to be moved to the left. There is also wiring from other accessories in the V.
This shows an uncluttered view of the V shape area on the top shelf. (not my picture, just one I found)
I got the Heat Troller module moved to the left and secured the STS cable with a zip tie. I just reused the hole I had drilled for the Heat Troller. I could not rest the right side of the STS on the other side of the V like I wanted, my other wiring was in the way and I did not want to move it so I just rested it on a piece ½” CPVC pipe then secured the CPVC with a zip tie. I thought I would need to secure the STS with another zip tie across the top but it seemed secure as it was. It is very light so it should be ok.
This shows the routing of the cable.
I left the end of the STS cable loose until I had all the terminals crimped onto the STS wires and inserted in the jumper connectors.
The cable was secured with a zip tie just before the end of the black insulation.
This shows the jumper plugged into the OEM connectors. The STS red and black wires with the red connectors are plugged into my blue connectors that go to the 12V switched and ground in the PC-8 fuse box.
This just shows the jumper all pushed back into position and wires tucked in out of the way
On my installation I followed the instructions for the most part but I did not be cut any OEM wires as directed in Step 2 of the instructions and I used different connectors than what was supplied. The only connectors I used that were supplied with the STS were the 2 red male quick disconnect connectors at the end of the STS red and black wires.
I built a jumper to make the connections to the 6 STS wires within the jumper. You just unplug the switch housing connector where it plugs into the bike electrical system and plug in the jumper between the two connectors.
The other 2 STS wires (red and black) are connected to switched 12 V and ground. I just happened to have some matching female quick disconnect connectors that I used to crimp onto wires that I ran down to my PC-8 fuse box.
Step 1
“Locate the cable coming from the left handlebar switch and find an accessible spot.”
They are just telling you to find a good place to cut into the cable coming from the switch, it could be anywhere between the switch and the connector where it plugs into the electrical system on the bike, but I think normally the best place would be just before the connector.
You just want to make sure you got the correct connector and the correct wires.
I think that’s the main thing to get out of this step whether you are going to be making the connections as per the instructions or building a jumper to make the connections.
If you need help finding the connector, see the notes on Gen 1 and Gen 2 differences in the reply above.
The wire colors for the 3 wires that you will need can be found in the wire color chart in the STS Installation Manual.
You should still confirm for yourself that you have located the correct wires.
flasher/Hazard Relay wire – Probe the back of the connector with a multimeter to confirm that you have 12 V flashing power when the signals are activated.
Left and Right signal wires – Disconnect the switch housing connector from the bike electrical system. Open the switch housing on the handlebar to access the signal switch. Look inside the signal switch (where the foam pads will go) there is a contact point for both right and left blinker. Position the switch for a right turn to expose the contact point for the left signal. Now you can use the multimeter to check continuity from the contact point to the end of the wire at the connector to confirm the color of the wire. Then use the same method to check the wire for the right signal.
Steps 2 -5
I did Step 6 next and then came back and built the jumper as I went through Steps 2-5.
I made the connections as per the instructions, I was just using different connectors.
The jumper will have wires that are jumpered straight across between the connectors for the wires that are not used in the STS installation. The 3 wires that are to be cut according to the STS instructions will not have jumper wires between the connectors in those 3 positions, so in effect they are cut.
Also, if there is a blank position in your OEM connector, there is no need for a jumper wire in that position either.
I will post some more information on building the jumper in another reply.
The only issues I had in Steps 2-5 are what I discussed in the reply above, on the right signal short flash and the positioning of the foam pads.
NOTE:
See the next reply below, I added some more information on taking the switch housing apart and inserting the foam pads in the signal switch. Also some info on confirming the wires colors by using the terminals inside the signal switch.
Step 6
“Attach the STS unit to firm mounting spot. Logo must be pointing upwards and arrow in driving direction.”
See more information on the back page of the instructions, in the section Attach STS unit to firm mounting spot.
I wanted to find a good place to mount the STS and see how I would route the cable before I did anything else.
Since I was building a jumper to do my installation I also wanted to see where my jumper plugs would be located and if the loose wires at the end of the STS cable were long enough.
I cut another inch off the outer insulation on the STS wiring harness so I had 4” of loose wire at the end. This gives you better flexibility to position the jumper connectors when the STS wires are attached.
See Picture below.
You can see, there should be enough cable length to mount the STS about anywhere you want in the electrical area. The STS is at the top of the picture and the end of the wiring harness is at the bottom.
I think this is a good place to mount it, on the top shelf above the electrical tray.
This shelf slopes down then back up to form a V shape. The STS needs to be level, as required by the instructions, so you could place it in the saddle of the V and make it level by resting the corners on the sides of the V.
The only problem is I have already used that space for other stuff. There is a Heat Troller module for my heated grips that is secured with the 2 zip ties, under the twisted blue and white wires in the picture. That will need to be moved to the left. There is also wiring from other accessories in the V.
This shows an uncluttered view of the V shape area on the top shelf. (not my picture, just one I found)
I got the Heat Troller module moved to the left and secured the STS cable with a zip tie. I just reused the hole I had drilled for the Heat Troller. I could not rest the right side of the STS on the other side of the V like I wanted, my other wiring was in the way and I did not want to move it so I just rested it on a piece ½” CPVC pipe then secured the CPVC with a zip tie. I thought I would need to secure the STS with another zip tie across the top but it seemed secure as it was. It is very light so it should be ok.
This shows the routing of the cable.
I left the end of the STS cable loose until I had all the terminals crimped onto the STS wires and inserted in the jumper connectors.
The cable was secured with a zip tie just before the end of the black insulation.
This shows the jumper plugged into the OEM connectors. The STS red and black wires with the red connectors are plugged into my blue connectors that go to the 12V switched and ground in the PC-8 fuse box.
This just shows the jumper all pushed back into position and wires tucked in out of the way
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SparrowHawkxx
Active Member
More Information
The picture below shows the bottom side of the switch housing (Gen 1).
Reference this picture for the following:
Taking the Switch Housing Apart
Just 2 screws to take the switch apart. The top screw is easy enough to get to. The bottom screw, shown in the picture, is harder to get to without removing more parts or using a special tool. A tool like this finger bit driver and a JIS bit makes the job easy.
Inserting the Foam Pads in the Signal Switch
The white piece is the signal switch, there is an opening/slot on each side of the switch slider.
The slot on the right has one of the small foam pads inserted in it. I put the pad in just far enough so it is even with the bottom of the switch. At first I stuffed the pad all the way in but had problems with the switch making contact.
Confirm the Wire Colors for Left and Right Signal
The slot on the left does not have a pad in it yet. It is hard to see in this picture but there is a switch contact at the bottom of the slot, partly covered by the white slider. The other contact is in the other slot. You can get on these contact points with an ohmmeter to check continuity down to the connector to confirm the wire colors for Left and Right signal.
Note: I got the finger bit driver when I was adjusting my headlights. This driver, used with a ¼ inch square to ¼ hex adapter and an 8mm socket makes that job much easier also. The driver is a Kobalt tool I got at Lowes for $5. I recently saw one in the store but they do not show it online anymore, now they have the exact same thing in a Craftsman. Item # 1049309
The picture below shows the bottom side of the switch housing (Gen 1).
Reference this picture for the following:
Taking the Switch Housing Apart
Just 2 screws to take the switch apart. The top screw is easy enough to get to. The bottom screw, shown in the picture, is harder to get to without removing more parts or using a special tool. A tool like this finger bit driver and a JIS bit makes the job easy.
NOTE on the Gen 2:
The signal switch looks very similar but it is different. See a picture of the Gen 2 switch in the thread “STS Smart Turn self-canceling turn system thingy review” Reply # 24
My understanding is the 2 screws on bottom allow you to remove the top half of the switch housing. Then to get to the switch you may need to remove 2 screws from a bracket that holds the lower half of the housing to the bars.
For more info, search for the thread title “loose handlebar switch assembly” see diagram in Reply #15
Inserting the Foam Pads in the Signal Switch
The white piece is the signal switch, there is an opening/slot on each side of the switch slider.
The slot on the right has one of the small foam pads inserted in it. I put the pad in just far enough so it is even with the bottom of the switch. At first I stuffed the pad all the way in but had problems with the switch making contact.
Confirm the Wire Colors for Left and Right Signal
The slot on the left does not have a pad in it yet. It is hard to see in this picture but there is a switch contact at the bottom of the slot, partly covered by the white slider. The other contact is in the other slot. You can get on these contact points with an ohmmeter to check continuity down to the connector to confirm the wire colors for Left and Right signal.
Note: I got the finger bit driver when I was adjusting my headlights. This driver, used with a ¼ inch square to ¼ hex adapter and an 8mm socket makes that job much easier also. The driver is a Kobalt tool I got at Lowes for $5. I recently saw one in the store but they do not show it online anymore, now they have the exact same thing in a Craftsman. Item # 1049309
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XTZELEE
Member
After looking at the STS for the last year on the shelf, this thread encouraged me to fit the thing at last. Did the job today on my Gen2 and will be road testing tomorrow. Was thinking of doing the jumper lead, but in the end cut the leads, soldered and used heat shrink tubing. Neat enough installation took about 4 hours being extremely cautious, but the next one will take about 2 hours. Thanks for the impetus to get going on it.
Thrasherg
Active Member
I am like you, bought the STS system about 8 months ago and keep looking at it on the shelf. Cant bring myself to cut the original wiring loom so bought the plugs to make a patch lead but just cant find the motivation to assemble the lead and install it. This post is starting to wake my interest, think I might look at it this coming weekend..
XTZELEE
Member
If you think about it you are only cutting three wires. If you remove the STS later you only need to resolder and heatshrink those three wires to get back to OEM - no big deal. Making up and crimping a patch lead is a lot of hassle and extra expense to avoid just three solder rejoins IMO.
Tried mine on the road today, it works faultlessly on turns although I have not fully tested the overtaking and lane changing feature.
Don't overthink it - straightforward job once you know what and where everything is, thanks to the excellent write ups here posted previously
Tried mine on the road today, it works faultlessly on turns although I have not fully tested the overtaking and lane changing feature.
Don't overthink it - straightforward job once you know what and where everything is, thanks to the excellent write ups here posted previously
SparrowHawkxx
Active Member
Building the Jumper with STS Attached
I think these are the main points to know about the jumper I made.
Power Source
You will also need a source for 12 V switched power and ground for the STS red and black wires.
I used the same 20 Gauge red black 2 conductor parallel wire that I used for the jumper.
I crimped on some female Quick Disconnect Connectors to plug into the connectors on the STS red and black wires then ran the wire to my PC-8 fuse box and put in the smallest fuse I had (2 Amp).
I just happened to have the female Quick Disconnect Connectors but they were for 16-14 AWG wire (blue insulation).
I was using 20 AWG wire so I just stripped off more insulation, doubled the wire over and crimped the connector on and it worked fine.
Materials / Tools – See attached document
You will need to order matching male and female connectors, same type that is on the switch housing for your bike.
The attached document has information on types of connectors, supplies, tools, and other stuff for building a jumper.
There are also a few sources listed where you could order these things.
As always you should confirm any technical information for yourself.
I think these are the main points to know about the jumper I made.
- I cut an inch off the outer insulation on the STS wiring harness which gave me 4” of loose wire at the end. This gives you better flexibility to position the jumper connectors when the STS wires are attached.
- The jumper connector is a 10 pin connector that is the same type as the switch housing connector that plugs into the bike electrical system.
- 6 wires are jumpered straight across between the connectors with a small zip tie in the middle to keep them bundled together. I used 20 AWG red black 2 conductor parallel wire
These wires are 7.25 inches long. Nothing magical about that number, I just pulled off what I thought was a good length, cut them all the same and then measured the length. I was using parallel wire and at first I was going to keep them paired but the wires seem to lay better if I separated them into 6 individual wires.
- 1 wire position in the 10 pin connector is blank.
The wiring diagram shows this is for the flash to pass switch which this model does not have.
From looking at the picture of the Gen 2 connector in Reply #11 above, it appears that 1 pin is blank in that connector also. I do not have access to a Gen 2 bike or wiring diagram say I cannot confirm that.
- 3 STS wires to each connector
I cut the bullet connectors off the 6 STS wires and crimped on the pins/terminals that go into the jumper connectors.
(I kept the connectors on the STS red and black wires and will use those for the power connection.)- Cut the bullet connectors off the STS yellow, blue, green wires.
Use the female pins for the jumper connector that will plug into the bike side male connector.
Crimp the pins on the wires and insert into the connector.
- Cut the bullet connectors off the STS white, brown, purple wires.
Use the male pins for the jumper connector that will plug into the switch side female connector.
Crimp the pins on the wires and insert into the connector.
- Cut the bullet connectors off the STS yellow, blue, green wires.
- 6 wires are jumpered straight across between the connectors with a small zip tie in the middle to keep them bundled together. I used 20 AWG red black 2 conductor parallel wire
Power Source
You will also need a source for 12 V switched power and ground for the STS red and black wires.
Power Consumption: 250 mW (P=VI, that’s about 0.02 Amps)
I used the same 20 Gauge red black 2 conductor parallel wire that I used for the jumper.
I crimped on some female Quick Disconnect Connectors to plug into the connectors on the STS red and black wires then ran the wire to my PC-8 fuse box and put in the smallest fuse I had (2 Amp).
I just happened to have the female Quick Disconnect Connectors but they were for 16-14 AWG wire (blue insulation).
I was using 20 AWG wire so I just stripped off more insulation, doubled the wire over and crimped the connector on and it worked fine.
Materials / Tools – See attached document
You will need to order matching male and female connectors, same type that is on the switch housing for your bike.
The attached document has information on types of connectors, supplies, tools, and other stuff for building a jumper.
There are also a few sources listed where you could order these things.
As always you should confirm any technical information for yourself.
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Newhoco
New Member
Excellent write up , thank you . I like your wire labelling technique , too . Where did you source the matching terminal connectors ? How are they described ( ie , brand and pin size ) ?
My sts kit has been sitting on the shelf for a couple of years , originally intended for a VStrom , but now there's a Tenere in the garage .
I am adding a relay kit for the heated gear , gps , etc , and slowly gathering the tools and materials to do a professional job . I don't want a bunch of scotchlocks and splices , so a source for the proper terminals would be much appreciated .
Thanks !
My sts kit has been sitting on the shelf for a couple of years , originally intended for a VStrom , but now there's a Tenere in the garage .
I am adding a relay kit for the heated gear , gps , etc , and slowly gathering the tools and materials to do a professional job . I don't want a bunch of scotchlocks and splices , so a source for the proper terminals would be much appreciated .
Thanks !
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
Now that's funny right there!
SparrowHawkxx
Active Member
I will add a document in Reply #33 above. See the attached file: switch_housing_connectors.pdf.
This document lists the type of connector and has some sources to order the connector and pins.
Newhoco
New Member
Wow . I've been to 2 Yamaha dealerships and several automotive parts places looking for that info . Thanks to you , I now know that the 3 wire accessory plug is a Sumitomo MT-3S-2 . The bike is shipped with that connector capped with its mating part , MT-3P-2 . All you would need is ( 3 ) pins , part # SUMI.A-PIN1 ( for 22-16 AWG wire ) and ( 3 ) SUMI.SL2 seals to use the cap as the connector . The 4 wire plug would take 4 of the same pins and seals .
Sorry if that is mundane info elsewhere on this site , but I feel as if you've caused an epiphany !
Now , all I have to do is find those parts in Canada ...
Alex .
Sorry if that is mundane info elsewhere on this site , but I feel as if you've caused an epiphany !
Now , all I have to do is find those parts in Canada ...
Alex .
Newhoco
New Member
Edit - those are Corsa part #s . I've fired off an order for a few parts , which may take weeks to arrive , so I guess I'll ride with my GPS and heated gear wired straight to the battery ( fused but not switched ) until they arrive . My STS and relay installation will have to wait , so if you see me riding for miles with my blinker on , cut me some slack !
Alex .
Alex .
Jeff Milleman
Active Member
Thanks all for the Info to install the STS system , Not hard once you find the plug . On my 2015 it was in front of the battery in the top plug boot and the black snap connector 10 pin with 9 wires . Works great !!!! should of gotten this long ago as my Raider cancels . I try to remember to turn it off but once in a while my riding bud's give me that hand signal ... not any more.
Thrasherg
Active Member
just fitted this system to my 2016 Tenere ES, as stated, finding the plug to wire into was the biggest issue!! I made a small jump lead with a male and female plug on the end (rather than cut the Tenere wiring loom), also getting to the switch was a bit tricky because I have an ES with heated grips and the grip wiring runs under the switch unit and makes it more difficult to get off and access the switch inside to add the foam pads!!
It was easy to install with the jump lead although I still dont understand why you have to connect 5 wires then turn it on to flash the indicators and then connect the remaining 3 wires! Seems an odd calibration procedure, but I did it and everything works very well.
Will be buying a few more to install on other road bikes!!
Gary
It was easy to install with the jump lead although I still dont understand why you have to connect 5 wires then turn it on to flash the indicators and then connect the remaining 3 wires! Seems an odd calibration procedure, but I did it and everything works very well.
Will be buying a few more to install on other road bikes!!
Gary