Speed Bleeders and the S10

Top Ten

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Aug 24, 2018
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105
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Rockwall, Texas
Does anyone know if this procedure bleeds the ABS system. I've read the dealer has a special electical hook up to cycle the ABS when bleeding the brakes. Curious minds want to know.
It does not bleed the ABS pump. There is a fairly easy routine to do that. Search the phrase "How To: cycle the ABS pump."
 

Hayviator

New Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
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7
Location
Skagitopia
The sizes needed for the Tenere are not on their site and I had to contact them to get them.
Front (right) SB8125LL
(left) SB8125L
Rear SB7100
Clutch SB8125L
I will be installing next bleed session.

A little tip, Honda's have a small cover over the port in the reservoir so when you let the lever go, it prevents fluid from squirting out.
Not Yam & Kaw, so I made one from some steel banding. I forgot to use it last time and got fluid BEHIND the bike from the front reservoir! ::010::
Easy to make as it just clips on the side of the reservoir.

BTW, my 'new' 2012 bought last May had dirty maple syrup as fluid when I got it to!
Any idea why the right and left would be different?
 

Edbo1960

Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2018
Messages
98
Location
Connecticut
First thing I do is speed bleeders on my bikes, makes it so easy!

Also, I use a condiment squeeze bottle to add the brake fluid, very clean and easy to monitor.
 

WJBertrand

Ventura Highway
Joined
Jun 20, 2015
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Ventura, CA
Getting ready to order some of these and see they have steel and stainless steel versions of the Speed Bleeders. Which ones should I get? I seem to recall something about not using stainless with aluminum; are the calipers on the Tenere aluminum?
I’d go stainless. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and seems to me the stainless would be less likely to corrode. I’ve not heard of any particular incompatibility between aluminum and stainless. I think any such issue would be worse for plain steel.


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RCinNC

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Aug 30, 2014
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North Carolina
Galling can happen between stainless steel and aluminum. It's a known problem with the rear axle and axle nuts on V-Stroms, though I'm not sure which metals are at play there. There are long technical explanations for it on line, but basically under some conditions, the two dissimilar metals can cold weld themselves together.

I don't know for sure what the brake calipers are made of. Simplest was to tell is to hold a magnet up to them, If it doesn't stick, it isn't ferrous.

 
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ballisticexchris

Guest
Here is how I do mine. No chance of air entering the system. Most important thing to remember is making sure the rubber "sleeve/cap" is making a good seal where the bleeder screws in. otherwise it will pull air into the system.

F562AE84-F4CC-44CB-B8EB-5884133FBFAA.jpeg
 
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ballisticexchris

Guest
Sorry it's an old picture. Basically you put a half hitch in the tube. This prevents air bubbles from re-entering the system.
 

WJBertrand

Ventura Highway
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Jun 20, 2015
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Ventura, CA
Galling can happen between stainless steel and aluminum. It's a known problem with the rear axle and axle nuts on V-Stroms, though I'm not sure which metals are at play there. There are long technical explanations for it on line, but basically under some conditions, the two dissimilar metals can cold weld themselves together.

I don't know for sure what the brake calipers are made of. Simplest was to tell is to hold a magnet up to them, If it doesn't stick, it isn't ferrous.

I would expect the same from plain steel, maybe worse. The calipers are definitely nonferrous, assumably aluminum, but the OEM bleeder valves are easily attracted to a magnet.


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MattR

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Nov 16, 2019
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North Hampshire UK
Haven’t done it on the s10 yet but I usually put a few turns of ptfe tape round the bleed nipple to help it stay sealed when it’s open so the vacuum bleeder doesn’t draw in air from around the threads


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Wallkeeper

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Minneapolis
I’d go stainless. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and seems to me the stainless would be less likely to corrode. I’ve not heard of any particular incompatibility between aluminum and stainless. I think any such issue would be worse for plain steel.


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Stainless (varies with alloy and passivation) and Aluminum may be incompatible in an electrolyte. Typically, the further apart materials are in nobility the more incompatible they are. Following is a descending nobility list I used to work from when we were tracking corrosion failures. Note that Aluminum is very reactive. I suspect 439 SS is well down the list but as far as I know it is only common in cookware and exhaust systems
as always, your mileage WILL vary *S*
Wally
 

Kelvinator

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Dec 22, 2020
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Location
So Cal
Just did my brake fluid change on my 2017 ST with the speed bladder installed. Super easy less than 30 min to change everything including a break in between and A COLD ONE :cool:
I just bought a 2017 ST with only 2700 miles on it. Even though that's very few miles I'm expecting 4 yr old brake fluid to be at the end of it's life. I was all set to order the Motion Pro Mini Bleeder when I went out to the bike to verify bleeder nut sizes only to discover they're different! Then I found this thread. Guess I'm ordering Speed Bleeders. Did you get the stainless steel or carbon steel bleeders?

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Tenman

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Dec 7, 2013
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2,102
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Natchez Ms USA
I started using speed bleeders in 96 on my CR500. I haven't bled them in a few years. I decided to do a fluid change last night. The rear one didn't work anymore. The fluid was coming out around the threads. None came out the bleeder. Until now. They have always worked for me.
 

alongrosman

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Jan 15, 2019
Messages
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Location
winnipeg, Mnitoba, Canada
I just bought a 2017 ST with only 2700 miles on it. Even though that's very few miles I'm expecting 4 yr old brake fluid to be at the end of it's life. I was all set to order the Motion Pro Mini Bleeder when I went out to the bike to verify bleeder nut sizes only to discover they're different! Then I found this thread. Guess I'm ordering Speed Bleeders. Did you get the stainless steel or carbon steel bleeders?

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stainless steel ...
 
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