2daMax
Active Member
They would say incompatible since they don't have the terminal nuts. But these nuts can be resourced separately.
Sparkplugs
- Thread starter hyder4lunch
- Start date
Nig5
Member
Left my S10 at dealers (UK) for 36,000 mile service, phone call 3 hours later "can`t get one of the plugs out and the stick coils are rusted to hell" 
eventually managed to get plug out but it was touch and go!
Apparently the seals around coils were letting in water which was boiling and causing rust, not the first time I have heard of this and know of one bike where they had to take off cylinder head to remove plug
My bike is 3 years old, kept clean, occasionally ridden in rain and covered with ACF 50 in the winter, serviced by Yam dealers at recommended intervals so I think a bad design Mr Yamaha ??? it says in UK service manual remove and inspect plugs at 6,000 miles, replace at 12,000, every dealer I have spoken to said just replace at 12,000! but now I am going to make sure the stick coils are inspected and greased every service!
Coils were put back in to get me home and booked in for replacement next Saturday at 165 of your pounds each
eventually managed to get plug out but it was touch and go!Apparently the seals around coils were letting in water which was boiling and causing rust, not the first time I have heard of this and know of one bike where they had to take off cylinder head to remove plug
My bike is 3 years old, kept clean, occasionally ridden in rain and covered with ACF 50 in the winter, serviced by Yam dealers at recommended intervals so I think a bad design Mr Yamaha ??? it says in UK service manual remove and inspect plugs at 6,000 miles, replace at 12,000, every dealer I have spoken to said just replace at 12,000! but now I am going to make sure the stick coils are inspected and greased every service!
Coils were put back in to get me home and booked in for replacement next Saturday at 165 of your pounds each
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yoyo
Well-Known Member
My 2016 bike has just short of 7k on it, it's due a service and the warranty runs out in April, are coils normally covered by warranty? I was also told to leave the plugs until 12k but I'm concerned that if a coil has seized in would it be a warranty issue? It needs a new set of clocks due to condensation so I think I'll try and get as much done as I can.
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When you take your coils out remove the metal sleeve from around the coil and then it wknt get rusted in again. Did that on my bike a couple of years ago and Ive had at least 40,000 miles since with no problem of seized coils/plugs
At 7k the coils ought to be warranty. IF they are actually bad.
2daMax
Active Member
NGK G-Power CPR8EAGP-9 after 8k km.
Boris
Well-Known Member
I changed my plugs about 6 weeks ago, they'd done about 13k miles. Once out it was very obvious that this plug change wasn't needed. I'll let this set go 20k before changing.
There was no evidence whatsoever of water in the plugs wells at all on mine, however in the time I've owned it it's not seen an awful lot of rain.
I think for the most part the water in the plug well issue can be resolved by a small rubber cover at the front of the engine, up near the engine to frame mount. There's a gap that is very well positioned to catch spray from the front wheel.
Just my opinion
There was no evidence whatsoever of water in the plugs wells at all on mine, however in the time I've owned it it's not seen an awful lot of rain.
I think for the most part the water in the plug well issue can be resolved by a small rubber cover at the front of the engine, up near the engine to frame mount. There's a gap that is very well positioned to catch spray from the front wheel.
Just my opinion
I think that if you ride every day and particularly in very heavy rain the water will always find its way in. That has been my experience at least.
Hope I can catch up with you sometime Boris. I notice you are in the midlands? I spend a fair bit of time in Cheltenham
Hope I can catch up with you sometime Boris. I notice you are in the midlands? I spend a fair bit of time in Cheltenham
Boris
Well-Known Member
I actually in Northamptonshire, but often your way, depending where in London? I'm often in Essex.stutrump said:
Xclimation
Well-Known Member
Just replaced mine today at 12200 miles. I replaced them with NGK laser iridium CR8EIB-9 or 5258.
The picture is the plugs that came out of my bike and what you're looking at is the order that they are in the bike as if you are sitting in the seat looking forward. The boxes are the new plugs. I save the old plugs. The old plugs look good my engines running as it's suppose to according to the plugs I double check the gap of the plugs that came out it was at .032 which is what I set the new plugs. So it didn't necessarily need a plug change. Didn't have to chance to ride it yet with the new plugs. Started it up; seem to run a little bit more steady but I'm sure that's just what I wanted to hear... as you can see the one plug that is the inside on drivers left has some water intrusion this picture I did not clean it off or anything it looks like it might have been water from being cleaned off because there was some white looking mineral dried up stuff. I have ridden through rain a few times especially about a year ago ran through a soaking rain but this looks more like from a faucet or hose based on the mineral build up. It wasn't bad or catastrophic but it was there. When replacing the plugs I used that extra o-ring as talked about in another thread along with some high temperature seal lubricant. Hopefully that'll make a difference be sure you have various types of extensions for your ratchet when doing this. The far-right spark plug can be a little bit of a challenge I used wobble extensions which I don't like to do when doing spark plugs that's all I had at the time, easy job overall I timed it took me 51 minutes next time I can probably do it in 30 I took my sweet time and was meticulous.
Picture is sideways....the top of the picture is the left as if you are sitting on the bike.
The picture is the plugs that came out of my bike and what you're looking at is the order that they are in the bike as if you are sitting in the seat looking forward. The boxes are the new plugs. I save the old plugs. The old plugs look good my engines running as it's suppose to according to the plugs I double check the gap of the plugs that came out it was at .032 which is what I set the new plugs. So it didn't necessarily need a plug change. Didn't have to chance to ride it yet with the new plugs. Started it up; seem to run a little bit more steady but I'm sure that's just what I wanted to hear... as you can see the one plug that is the inside on drivers left has some water intrusion this picture I did not clean it off or anything it looks like it might have been water from being cleaned off because there was some white looking mineral dried up stuff. I have ridden through rain a few times especially about a year ago ran through a soaking rain but this looks more like from a faucet or hose based on the mineral build up. It wasn't bad or catastrophic but it was there. When replacing the plugs I used that extra o-ring as talked about in another thread along with some high temperature seal lubricant. Hopefully that'll make a difference be sure you have various types of extensions for your ratchet when doing this. The far-right spark plug can be a little bit of a challenge I used wobble extensions which I don't like to do when doing spark plugs that's all I had at the time, easy job overall I timed it took me 51 minutes next time I can probably do it in 30 I took my sweet time and was meticulous.
Picture is sideways....the top of the picture is the left as if you are sitting on the bike.
Attachments
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
What NGK plug did you use for the Laser Iridium replacements? Did they have the extended tip like the OEMs?
Xclimation
Well-Known Member
WJBertrand said:
Attachments
Xclimation
Well-Known Member
a 150 mile review with these spark plugs. Bike does run smoother. It does feel like it pulls a little more and a little more power but.....not sure if it's my "butt dyno" telling me this. I tried to tell myself it was the butt dyno but it does feel slightly better. I don't know if this is possible (could be another butt dyno thing) but I swear I feel less engine braking?
Not sure could've been my ride and how and how long I was stopping but it did seem bike is runner a little hotter.
But the smoothness and idling smoother was definitely there. Not sure about gas mileage yet.
Not sure could've been my ride and how and how long I was stopping but it did seem bike is runner a little hotter.
But the smoothness and idling smoother was definitely there. Not sure about gas mileage yet.
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
Thanks!
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mebgardner
Active Member
Mmmm, I would not "adjust" / "set" an Iridium plug.Xclimation said:
You check them at the purchase counter. If they are not correct gap, you hand it back and request another one.
Do *not* change an Iridium plug gap!
cycledelic relic
Well-Known Member
There are more than 3 letters in the spelling of Yamaha.....you should be fine
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Xclimation
Well-Known Member
To be honest I did not know this! But they were all gapped perfectly at .032. I just checked the gap with a feeler type plug gauge. Just looked up why one shouldn't do this. (Electrode is thin and will break too easy) I wonder if there was a warning on the box?mebgardner said:
I wouldn't be able to check the gap at parts counter because I got them by mail.
TE2BA
New Member
After 5000 miles. Running great and the plugs look great, too.TE2BA said:Finally, got them from Japan. IU24D has 0.5mm projected tip and it is listed as s10 replacement.
I installed it and ran 25 miles shake down. It started better, low end picks up better and both T and S mode is more responsive, noticeably.
So far so good.
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