Solid Front Rotors, anyone done it?

[swakop_toe]

So I got a quote to have solid Front discs laser cut. Stupidly cheaper than the Galfer/ Yamaha OEM replacement.
Here in South Africa, only 25% of the OEM price.

Material is specified as SS 3CR12 @ 6mm thickness.

The OEM floating disc is in two parts.
The inner part is 6mm thick, the outer/floating part is 4mm.

The guys are concerned about skimming the outer part to 4mm and insist the whole disc to be 6mm thick.

I have no opinion on the thickness, except whether the 6mm outer section of the solid disc will allow the pads to fit over it.

I have Googling about floating vs. solid rotors and the only advantage the floating discs have, that I identified, is warping under severe, constant (like racing) conditions.

I am prepared to experiment with the solid discs (surely the solid disc will not simply disintegrate?!), but merely warp.
The costs involved is negligible and I will discard the disc if it proved unfavourable.

What is you opinions?

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[Dogdaze]

I do believe that Brembo make a replacement disc for the S10 that is solid, I looked into replacing my discs a few years back as OEM was way too expensive, in the end went with aftermarket units for about 60% of OEM, identical.
My thoughts would be the amount of 'free play' between the rotor and pads, the pads tend to just skim the rotor under normal conditions and don't bind, the extra 2mm may become an issue, overheat and potentially cause involuntary lock-up.... just my thoughts. There is a member on the forum that works/worked in the braking industry (hobdayd?) that may come along and correct me and give more input.

 

[gv550]

The wear limit is 4 mm, I believe new front rotors are 4.5 mm thick.
Will your lazer cut rotors have the cross drilled holes? If not I think that would be a step backward in performance.

 

[hobdayd]

Guys, you know my views...look at my previous posts. I won't restate here. Go and read.

There are very good reasons why rotors are as they are. Pay Yamaha for the OE replacements. They made little money on the bike they sold you! Some of their total income comes from aftermarket sales which keeps bike prices lower.

I don't want to nag so please don't take offence at my opinion...

Anyone intent on developing their own rotors feel free to carry on. Good luck. They are only safety CRITICAL! Not just for you but for other road users around you.

If your solid rotor prototype bells and cracks, jams against the pad abutment (which I have seen happen) thereby locking the front wheel at 70 MPH what will happen to you?

 

[ace50]

I'm pretty sure soild rotors are far more common than semi floating rotors, more so than full floating rotors.
It's not rocket science. (but does need to be designed properly)
On a standard road bike I can't tell the difference between the two styles, even on large tourers.
I'd make sure you are using the correct material though.

 

[richarddacat]

Oh boy, this will be a good discussion, right up there with using car tires on a motorcycle

 

[WJBertrand]

Would there be any caliper to rotor alignment issues, given that I think the Tenere's calipers are solid mounted (vs. on a slider pin)? Since the calipers are double acting, that is with opposed pistons, it might work, at least initially. My concerns would be warpage. I've had one set of OEM rotors replaced already due to severely pulsing brakes. The replacements are better but still not perfect. When/if I buy new rotors, I'll be looking closely at the aftermarket, not so much for price but because of my experience with warping of the OEMs.

If Yamaha/Ferrodo (or is it Galfer) can't quite get it right....

 

[swakop_toe]

Would there be any caliper to rotor alignment issues, given that I think the Tenere's calipers are solid mounted (vs. on a slider pin)? Since the calipers are double acting, that is with opposed pistons, it might work, at least initially. My concerns would be warpage. I've had one set of OEM rotors replaced already due to severely pulsing brakes. The replacements are better but still not perfect. When/if I buy new rotors, I'll be looking closely at the aftermarket, not so much for price but because of my experience with warping of the OEMs.

If Yamaha/Ferrodo (or is it Galfer) can't quite get it right....

Regarding warping, I also have had to replace a rotor, very early on.
No idea why it warped. I had not taken it off-road then nor had I done any sever rain weather riding.

It's not just the cost driving me seriously considering a solid disc swap, but also the warp experience of the Galfer/OEM disc.

I am on 62k odometer now and should begin to consider replacing in the next 10-15k km.
I commute with my STen.

There are many alternative options other than Galfer. All floating rotors though, I must admit.

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[Longdog Cymru]

I fail to understand why anyone would want to increase unsprung weight by at least 50% which in turn affects suspension and steering, compromising your safety and the safety of others and invalidating your insurance, (in some countries at least), in order to save a few $/€/¥/£.

 

[swakop_toe]

I fail to understand why anyone would want to increase unsprung weight by at least 50% which in turn affects suspension and steering, compromising your safety and the safety of others and invalidating your insurance, (in some countries at least), in order to save a few $/€/¥/£.

It's a valid concern, but I believe the weight increase will be insignificant, if any.
As for costs. It's ZAR1,400 vs. ZAR10,800. It's a >85% cost variance.

And are still to be convinced floating rotors have such a significant improvement / safety factor / weight / performance advantage over solid rotors?

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[ace50]

I fail to understand why anyone would want to increase unsprung weight by at least 50% which in turn affects suspension and steering, compromising your safety and the safety of others and invalidating your insurance, (in some countries at least), in order to save a few $/€/¥/£.

Say what!? Where do you come up with that!

 

[swakop_toe]

Solid as in one, single piece rotor.
The OEM rotor are two pieces held together by tabs.

I will still have the same vents/holes/slots cut in per the OEM rotor.

Why do you want a solid rotor. Had them on my 2005 Road King. Had to switch them out to a floating rotor. The OEM made a blood curdling squel, that would stop traffic. Harley hid from the problem, did the replacement on my dime. It was a common complaint, Happy after. Sometimes They get it wrong and you have to go another route.

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[hobdayd]

Sorry but you must be crazy.

All the years of development the OEM puts into development of safety CRITICAL items and you want to throw that out and replace with something you drew up in 5 minutes?

It takes lots of serious effort to develop braking systems and you discount accumulated wisdom and advice from industry professionals without second thought.

Good luck.

 

[swakop_toe]

Duly noted, and thank you for your input and sincere concern.

I have yet to pull the trigger.

Sorry but you must be crazy.

All the years of development the OEM puts into development of safety CRITICAL items and you want to throw that out and replace with something you drew up in 5 minutes?

It takes lots of serious effort to develop braking systems and you discount accumulated wisdom and advice from industry professionals without second thought.

Good luck.

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[OldRider]

Sorry but you must be crazy.

All the years of development the OEM puts into development of safety CRITICAL items and you want to throw that out and replace with something you drew up in 5 minutes?

It takes lots of serious effort to develop braking systems and you discount accumulated wisdom and advice from industry professionals without second thought.

Good luck.

Remember these are the same engineers that put all that effort into developing the faulty clutch baskets, headlight wiring harness and cam chain tensioner we have on the S10. Just because they design it and put it on the market doesn't make it the best. Anyone know where I can buy a Pinto gas tank or some Explorer tires?

 

[hobdayd]

Please don't. I am genuinely concerned!

 

[DamMechanic]

I say go for it if you want. Bikes from the 60’s through the early 90’s had solid discs. Are they as good? Nope but that’s why they went away from them but it’s not like they are going to catastrophically fail. Brake quality will be the only negative and if you know that going in, it’s on you.
A total solid disc with no vent grooves, holes or slots do really suck when they get wet. Just think the almost equal of drum brakes.
Most cars and trucks use solid rotors.

My only question is, how you going to make them flat and parallel?

 

[Longdog Cymru]

Say what!? Where do you come up with that!

Let’s do the math, the stock drilled and scalloped rotors are 4.5mm and the OP is talking about 6mm solid rotors so I reckon the 50% figure I arrived at for the solid rotors over stock is a very reasonable assumption.

 

[swakop_toe]

Let’s do the math, the stock drilled and scalloped rotors are 4.5mm and the OP is talking about 6mm solid rotors so I reckon the 50% figure I arrived at for the solid rotors over stock is a very reasonable assumption.

Wrong.
Go measure yours.
You will see for yourself.

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[dannyv]

Let’s do the math, the stock drilled and scalloped rotors are 4.5mm and the OP is talking about 6mm solid rotors so I reckon the 50% figure I arrived at for the solid rotors over stock is a very reasonable assumption.

But that is hardly the total unsprung weight. And far as I know, there is no magic in a brake rotor, no exotic alloys, just machined and installed. That is part of why you have a break in period for a new bike, to let those rotors and pads get all comfy with each other.