Shifting problem

Dwido

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Sep 2, 2018
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Israel
The engine oil and the clutch fluid are the same. There are two bolts on the bottom of the drain pan, one drains the crankcase, the other drains the sump. There is no separate clutch fluid. The clutch is lubricated by the engine oil. If your oil is cold when you were spinning the wheel, that would cause more drag than if the oil is hot. So try it both ways to see if there is any difference. If there is no difference, then you likely do have a problem somewhere.
Sorry if this seems simple, but that's what I would do first.
Sorry if I didn't explain meant I will change the clutch fluid in the leaver.
What is the correct word for that fluid?
 

Squibb

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Bedford, UK
Sorry if I didn't explain meant I will change the clutch fluid in the leaver.
What is the correct word for that fluid?
Yamaha made things easy here. Just check the top of your clutch fluid reservoir - you will need a small can of fresh DOT 4 brake fluid.

Given the age/mileage of your bike, can I suggest a few things before you start the bleeding process, as the fluid may never have been changed since new : -

Firstly, when you open the reservoir, check to see whether the fluid level is correct & the reservoir clean of any dirt/ debris - If dirty or contaminated, old fluid is best removed from the top ( I use a turkey baster), rather than bleeding dirt down into the system. Secondly, I think it will be worth releasing the slave cylinder to check for any fluid leakage - seal leaks here can mean either losing fluid out, allowing air to be drawn in, or both & are a common cause of erratic clutch behaviour. Finally, & particularly if the fluid level is low, trace the clutch line condition & check for any leaks along it's full length.

Have fun. Take your time & let us know the results.
 

Dwido

Active Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2018
Messages
108
Location
Israel
Yamaha made things easy here. Just check the top of your clutch fluid reservoir - you will need a small can of fresh DOT 4 brake fluid.

Given the age/mileage of your bike, can I suggest a few things before you start the bleeding process, as the fluid may never have been changed since new : -

Firstly, when you open the reservoir, check to see whether the fluid level is correct & the reservoir clean of any dirt/ debris - If dirty or contaminated, old fluid is best removed from the top ( I use a turkey baster), rather than bleeding dirt down into the system. Secondly, I think it will be worth releasing the slave cylinder to check for any fluid leakage - seal leaks here can mean either losing fluid out, allowing air to be drawn in, or both & are a common cause of erratic clutch behaviour. Finally, & particularly if the fluid level is low, trace the clutch line condition & check for any leaks along it's full length.

Have fun. Take your time & let us know the results.
 

Dwido

Active Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2018
Messages
108
Location
Israel
The fluid was changed 20,000 km ago ,
When I bought the bike I changed all the fluids i do that every time i bay a used bike
2 years past since .
There is no visable leakage.
The level is ok.
What is a Turkey baster?
 

bimota

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Dec 10, 2017
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Location
bridgend, Wales, UK
The fluid was changed 20,000 km ago ,
When I bought the bike I changed all the fluids i do that every time i bay a used bike
2 years past since .
There is no visable leakage.
The level is ok.
What is a Turkey baster?
one of these

rob
 

patrickg450

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Joined
Jun 20, 2012
Messages
2,070
Location
Memphis TN
the oil in the reservoir for the clutch is called Hydraulic oil. It uses brake fluid, DOT 4 as mentioned above.

adjective

  1. 1.
    denoting, relating to, or operated by a liquid moving in a confined space under pressure.
    "hydraulic fluid"

  2. 2.
    relating to the science of hydraulics.
 

Jlq1969

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May 5, 2018
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Location
Argentina
The fluid was changed 20,000 km ago ,
When I bought the bike I changed all the fluids i do that every time i bay a used bike
2 years past since .
There is no visable leakage.
The level is ok.
What is a Turkey baster?
Dwido, do you think you may be having problems with the hydraulic clutch pump? and so with the first gear engaged and pushing the clutch lever, the rear wheel was still difficult to turn. You can have a damaged pump bucket (number 2 in the pic) and even if you change the liquid, there will not be enough pressure to actuate the clutch or at least not 100%. That the pump loses pressure, there does not necessarily have to be a leakage99D0D7BF-E2C9-47A7-84C3-E3FB736D855F.png
 

Dwido

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Joined
Sep 2, 2018
Messages
108
Location
Israel
Dwido, do you think you may be having problems with the hydraulic clutch pump? and so with the first gear engaged and pushing the clutch lever, the rear wheel was still difficult to turn. You can have a damaged pump bucket (number 2 in the pic) and even if you change the liquid, there will not be enough pressure to actuate the clutch or at least not 100%. That the pump loses pressure, there does not necessarily have to be a leakageView attachment 66441
I think if there was lose of pressure in the pump, it would not able to stop the bike when I pull the clutch leaver.
If I stand in first gear with the clutch leaver pulled ,if there is lose of pressure the bike will start rolling forward while the clutch leaver is still pulled.
 

Jlq1969

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Location
Argentina
I think if there was lose of pressure in the pump, it would not able to stop the bike when I pull the clutch leaver. If I stand in first gear with the clutch leaver pulled ,if there is lose of pressure the bike will start rolling forward while the clutch leaver is still pulled.
Yes, this would be the case if the loss of pressure were significant. Generally the S10 has a habit of kicking when you engage the first gear. Then it is very smooth. Don't do all the fluid changes at once, otherwise you won't know what the problem was. I would start by changing the engine oil (10000km is enough) .. maybe putting one a little better (maybe same Motul but 7100 10-40), or the one you want you to think can be better than the 5100. Many feel that when they improve the quality of the oil, the gear shifting is smoothed
 

Dwido

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Joined
Sep 2, 2018
Messages
108
Location
Israel
Yes, this would be the case if the loss of pressure were significant. Generally the S10 has a habit of kicking when you engage the first gear. Then it is very smooth. Don't do all the fluid changes at once, otherwise you won't know what the problem was. I would start by changing the engine oil (10000km is enough) .. maybe putting one a little better (maybe same Motul but 7100 10-40), or the one you want you to think can be better than the 5100. Many feel that when they improve the quality of the oil, the gear shifting is smoothed
 

Dwido

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Joined
Sep 2, 2018
Messages
108
Location
Israel
I changed the oil (Motul 10 40 5100).
The shifting is a lot better.
Thank you all for the help.
 
B

ballisticexchris

Guest
Yes Sir!! Motul all the way. It has proven itself over and over.
 
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