Self Canceling Turn Signs....???

SparrowHawkxx

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Yes, I was thinking maybe some Posi-Lock connectors.

Thanks for the pdf, I could not find links to any installation information form their home page.
I guess they don't want you to see this until you buy it then they give you a link to this info ???

So I did a search and found a link to an Installation Page.
This installation page has a short installation video and a link to the Manual
This is the manual that it links you to: STS_install_manual_ENv3.pdf - link
Notice the file name, it is a different version than what WJBertrand posted. I could only find minor differences though.​
I would like to be able to navigate to the installation material from their home page so you might have some indication that you have the right version.​

Another Manual I found - link

A couple of reviews:
MO Tested: Smart Turn System Self-Canceling Signals (October 28, 2016) - link
Smart Turn System Review (April 8, 2017) - link

Locating the connector that comes from the handlebar switch housing:
See picture below and another attached picture. The plug just above the battery, the female part is white and the male part is black.
I checked the wire colors in this connecter and confirmed that they matched the wiring diagram in the Factory Service Manual.
Right turn signal - Dark Green, Left turn signal - Chocolate, Turn signal/Hazard Relay - Brown/White

The white plug is the end of the cable that comes from the handlebar switch housing and is where you would cut the Chocolate, Dark Green, and Brown/White wires and then connect the ends of the cut wires to the STS.
This is a 10 pin connector. You can see the front row of five, from top to bottom: Dark Green, Yellow, blank space, Brown/White, and Red/Yellow.
The Chocolate wire is directly behind the Dark Green wire.
The blank space would be a White/Yellow wire for flash to pass switch if I had it on my bike.

20190227_1020.jpg
 

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markjenn

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Self canceling signals on motorcycles are controversial and the mfgs seem to vacillate between providing them and not. I wonder if this is because of varying opinions from their legal liability department.

The typical distance/time method (which cancels the signals if a preset distance AND a preset time has elapsed) works great as a safety net to avoid having riders leave signals on for long periods when they forget to manually cancel, but sucks as a dependable way to cancel the signals promptly right after the turn is completed. And many riders will hear the phrase "self-canceling" and carry the expectation that they should work like a car works which they generally can't do.

I'm a proponent of including them as a safety-net and strongly warning riders that the still need to manually cancel, but many riders don't read the OM's. And some riders just object to nanny safety systems in general - they want full control and don't like the idea that the signals may cancel on their own before they desire them to.

There have been attempts in the past to detect turn completion by sensing changes in steering head angle, but doing that reliably and at reasonable cost is a very tough nut to crack. Leaning single-track vehicles don't turn like cars (where the steering is displaced throughout the turn) which makes the problem somewhat intractable.

- Mark
 
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SparrowHawkxx

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The STS sounds like a good device and I think that using a jumper would address my installation concerns.
This is what I am thinking about doing. Just putting this out there to give others some ideas or get comments if someone sees a problem .

Installation of the STS using a jumper.
I am looking into building a jumper that you would just unplug the OEM connectors and plug the jumper in between them.
You would then just cut the appropriate jumper wires for splicing into the STS wires. I would probably use Posi-Lock connectors or possibly solder and heat shrink tubing to make the connections.
You would also need to connect to a switched power source and ground. I would use my PC-8 fuse box for that.
I just need to find some connectors that are the same as the OEM connectors.

The jumper would consist of the new connectors, 9 wires that jumper between these new connectors, and you could also use some vinyl sleeve material to run the jumper wires through and keep them bundled together. (10 jumper wires if you have the flash to pass switch).

Using a jumper would add more wire and another connector but would have several advantages.

Advantages of using a jumper:
  1. Using a jumper allows you to do the installation without altering the OEM wiring and it could also be easily removed.

  2. The location of the OEM connecter that you need to splice into is already in a tight place. I don't think it's a good place to be adding splicing connectors there, they are likely to interfere with the side cowling, especially if you have crash bars and you have to slide the cowling over these connectors when you remove or replace it.
    Using a jumper allows you to put the splice connectors in a better location where they won’t be snagged and otherwise stressed.
    You would basically have two like connectors lined up and the jumper wires between them would loop up to another space and back down.
    Make the jumper wires long enough to loop them up into an area where there is more space to accommodate the additional splice connectors for the installation of the STS. (length: maybe 10" of wire between the connectors)

  3. Some people may benefit from the STS but do not have the time/experience/tools or whatever to make the electrical connections. If we could find a source for these connectors and have instructions to splice the STS into a jumper, this would allow someone to order the parts needed and take them to someone else to build the jumper and splice in their STS.
    With the jumper built it would be an easy install. You would still need to make connections to switched power and a ground. Maybe a bit of work to open up the switch housing to insert the foam pads but I would not think that would be too difficult. I have not opened it up yet so I cannot say for sure.

  4. Maybe using a jumper and some notes from this thread might help address the issue stated by WJBertrand. "The installation may be a bit intimidating to some."
Source for a connector
I found a Sumitomo HM Series connector at Eastern Beaver. See the "10 Position 090 HM Connector" (6th one down).
I can't say for sure, but this looks to me like this is the connector you would need to build a jumper.
If you order the set, you get both the male and female ends and 10 terminals for each. You can also buy extra terminals.
Since I have one slot that is blank I would have one extra pair of terminals but to be safe I would go ahead and order a few more extras while I'm at it.

I may order the connector to see if it‘s the right one.

Edit Mar 13,2019 - Just received the 10 Position 090 HM Connector from Eastern Beaver. This is the correct connector for the Gen 1 bikes.
 
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SparrowHawkxx

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The link was to some sealed connectors, that is probably why they were more expensive.
None of these are the right shape and the OEM connector on the bike is not a sealed connector.
Thanks for looking though.

I studied the connector very closely looking at the lines and comparing it to the picture of the Sumitomo HM connector and it looks to me to be an exact match except the color of the OEM female connector was black.

Edit: tallpaul, I see now that you may have been referring to the connector in the post by Fennellg that was above mine instead of the connector I had linked to in my post directly above yours.
 
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WJBertrand

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This is basically the plug and play concept. Depending where you mount the actual unit, the harness on the STS may be long enough to put the connector plugs directly onto the STS wires and avoid another set of connection splices. Where I mounted mine in the upper right side of the electrical tray, the STS harness is long enough to do that. Having said that, I didn't have any issues fitting the cowls back on using weatherproof bullet type connectors to hook my system up at the location of the OEM plug.
 

SparrowHawkxx

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This is basically the plug and play concept. Depending where you mount the actual unit, the harness on the STS may be long enough to put the connector plugs directly onto the STS wires and avoid another set of connection splices. Where I mounted mine in the upper right side of the electrical tray, the STS harness is long enough to do that. Having said that, I didn't have any issues fitting the cowls back on using weatherproof bullet type connectors to hook my system up at the location of the OEM plug.
Yes, this would basically be a plug and play that you could build for someone or someone could order the parts and take some instructions to someone that could build a kit for them. They could then easily take it and install it on their bike. See post above, item #3 in the list of advantages.

Good point on wiring the STS wires directly to the new connectors if possible, from what little I've seen I did not think the harness looked very long.

I plan to mount the STS in about the only space I have left, where you said yours was, in the upper right hand corner of the electrical tray. I assume you mean basically right in front of the rectifier/regulator as you are looking at it. There may be some space just to the left of that also. I just need to look at it.

Just one question:
In a previous post you mentioned a pdf where they had the wiring colors wrong for the Yamaha in their wiring diagram.
From what I have looked at so far everything looks correct.
Am I missing something here or is your Gen 2 just different than my Gen 1?
What about the connector I identified above, does that look like the same one that is on your bike?

The STS Installation Manual that I saw showed colors that matched what was in the Factory Service Manual and the colors in the connector that I examined matched the colors and positions shown in the FSM wiring diagram. See the comments I made about the connector in Reply #21.

The only thing that I have not yet done is open the switch housing to confirm that:
Right turn signal is Dark Green,​
Left turn signal is Chocolate,​
Turn signal/Hazard Relay is Brown/White
I just put in an order for the STS and an order in to Eastern Beaver for the 10 Position 090 HM Connector.
When I get the connector I will check to see if it is the same as the connector to the switch housing and post back here to let you know.
 
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WJBertrand

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The colors were wrong for my ‘15. I did contact the company and told them what colors mine were, so maybe they corrected it or the maybe the Gen 1s are different? I wish I’d taken a photo of my installation before buttoning it all back up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
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SparrowHawkxx

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I received my STS on Monday, March 18, it took 18 days after ordering.
Got it installed a couple days after I got it. I have not had a chance to ride much, just a few short rides, but so far I am very pleased and would agree with WJBertrand’s comments on how well it works.

While waiting for the STS to arrive I found a thread that is more about the installation of the STS.
“ST2 Smart Turn System Installation”​


I’ll post some things about the installation over on the installation thread. That seems like the best place to do it, to keep installation comments and issues in one place.
 

WJBertrand

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This reminds me I need to post a photo where I located my module:




Note that mine is an early model with the extruded aluminum housing. It's the item near the middle with the two black tie wraps around it. I drilled four small holes in the electrical tray and shaved off a rib of plastic there to position it tightly and level.
 
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