I had my rear wheel re-trued a few years ago by a Yamaha shop. While I didn't watch the actual procedure, I've trued a lot of bicycle wheels, and I don't see why the procedure would be any different. The band around the inside of the wheel isn't a separate part of the wheel; if you apply force to it, it's going to be applied to the whole wheel, not just the band. If you shorten the spoke, which is what you're doing when you tighten it, it's going to pull it's anchor point on the rim towards it's anchor point on the hub. It's not going to pull the wheel straight down towards the hub. There will be some downward movement towards the hub, which is beneficial, because tightening and loosening adjacent pairs of spokes is how you adjust the roundness of the wheel.
I have Dyad Velocity wheels on my bicycle. At the point that the spokes attach to the rim, they're all in the same plane, just like they are on the S10 wheel. When I true that wheel, I do it in the standard manner that all spoked bicycle wheels are trued.
Once a wheel is out of round or out of true, simply tightening the spokes will just further unbalance the wheel. You have to rebalance the load, not just add more load to it.
