Rear Wheel Removal and Replacement Pictorial

[EricV]

Anyone know the inside diameter of the wheels on my 2013?

Not sure what you're asking for? Axle diameter? Inside diameter of the rim itself? Diameter of the wheel at the bottom of the groove inside the rim?

Can you clarify and tell us why you need the info. Knowing why may lead to other helpful responses.

 

[cmoresky]

Used this last night. Thanks great write up. ;D
I need to double check my work and the only step I can't be sure of is sensor hub alignment.

When assembling, the speed sensor hub has a notch to align with caliber housing. Nice picture, but i failed to note proper alignment before removal.
The picture shows a detail but I am not sure I aligned mine correctly. Mine does not allow hub turning so i am assuming its on correctly and the sensor wire is not stressed.

Does anyone have a picture of the bottom side of this assembled sensor hub so i can see if my notch and brake matches your picture?
I'd post my own but its 100 miles away at the moment.

Jeff in MA
on 2015 ST

 

[Checkswrecks]

Look for the finger to sit in the notch.

 

[whisperquiet]

The area I circled will be at the 600 position when the plate is correctly located. It is a drain when seen from the inside of the plate.

 

[Stridey]

Missing spacer.
I have contacted the dealer and of course its in back order back ordered item.
I have access to machining and can whip one up if someone could let me know the thickness required.
I'm planning on leave on a trip Sat so any info would be appreciated.
thanks in advance
edo

Using the above post as a reference I have just completed my third rear wheel off and on for tyre replacement and this time without following this excellent pictorial. Even when you have this brake calliper side washer it took me about 30 mins of frustration trying to get the axle back in when I suddenly realised I had the wrong washer and was trying to get the axle spindle through the nut side washer! Easy mistake to make and just picked up the wrong one! other than that an easy job other than the Cush drive rubbers coming out on removal. I must try the duck tape solution next time.


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[EricV]

Using the above post as a reference I have just completed my third rear wheel off and on for tyre replacement and this time without following this excellent pictorial. Even when you have this brake caliper side washer it took me about 30 mins of frustration trying to get the axle back in when I suddenly realized I had the wrong washer and was trying to get the axle spindle through the nut side washer! Easy mistake to make and just picked up the wrong one! other than that an easy job other than the Cush drive rubbers coming out on removal. I must try the duck tape solution next time.

Here is a tip for next time. When you remove the axle nut and washer, place it on the floor on that same side of the bike. When you pull the axle out, place that on the floor next to the bike with that side washer on the same side. This way when you go to re-install the wheel, the washers for each side are on the sides they belong and you don't have to think about which is which. But you know now that the thin one goes on the nut side.

 

[VRODE]

Yeah, I always take out axles and lay them out with the nuts/washers. I still screwed up and put the right side washer against the hub instead of the caliper housing. First change so I'll remember next time (I hope).

 

[mebgardner]

I see threads of folks having problems with seized speed sensor fasteners. Any wisdom for those folks, in this thread?

 

[Checkswrecks]

I see threads of folks having problems with seized speed sensor fasteners. Any wisdom for those folks, in this thread?

I'd probably NOT use heat, due to potential damage to the wire insulation.


Use some penetrant and let it sit over night. Use a bit that is in new condition to not slip. Initially give a little torque toward tightening the screw to see if you can hear it break loose.

 

[EricV]

I see threads of folks having problems with seized speed sensor fasteners. Any wisdom for those folks, in this thread?

Mostly its riders with salt/salt air environments that have had this issue.

Over the last 270k miles of ABS Yamaha bikes, living in Oregon and Utah, riding all across the US and Canada, in all weather, I have never had this problem.

If you strip the head, drill and ez out will do fine.

 

[Stridey]

I had this issue too! Loads of salt put down in Uk.
With a pair of pliers I managed to gently get some movement then with a small screwdriver I increased the gap to enable me to pull it out!
How do we prevent this happening next winter? Grease or similar?


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[Checkswrecks]

I had this issue too! Loads of salt put down in Uk.
With a pair of pliers I managed to gently get some movement then with a small screwdriver I increased the gap to enable me to pull it out!
How do we prevent this happening next winter? Grease or similar?


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The really nice part about this stuff is that it can only help, not hurt. The downside is that it washes off pretty easy and needs to be re-applied now & then.

 

[holligl]

Used the pictorial for the first time today (Great Job!), and used the suggestion elsewhere about partially inserting the axle bolt from the hub side to help align the splines into the pumpkin. Worked pretty well, but then noticed a 4-5" tube laying on the floor that had not been removed as part of the tear-down process. After not seeing any logical place for it to fit, I was somewhat panicked since I had the steering stem apart for lube and torque the day before, and thought maybe I had missed something. After referring to the manual and not seeing any such part in the steering, I found the part in the final drive section. It is the Pumpkin Collar, which is inserted to the inside of the pumpkin, with the flanged end toward the center. Back together now, and road tested with new Mitas E-07 Dakars. ::008::

 

[Cycledude]

Does anyone besides me have a hard time getting the rear axle out ? Mine is well oiled but man it's very hard to drive it out with a pretty good sized Harbor Freight rubber hammer and a short steel rod.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Does anyone besides me have a hard time getting the rear axle out ? Mine is well oiled but man it's very hard to drive it out with a pretty good sized Harbor Freight rubber hammer and a short steel rod.

Assuming you have the bike on the center stand, you can slide scraps of wood or a stack of old papers under the rear wheel to take some of the weight off of the axle.

 

[Cycledude]

Assuming you have the bike on the center stand, you can slide scraps of wood or a stack of old papers under the rear wheel to take some of the weight off of the axle.

Yes I've done that and it doesn't seem to help at all, last night after the axel was removed I used my grinder with one of those brass wire wheels to hopefully remove whatever's making it so hard to drive out, do they usually just pull out by hand on other bikes after the first couple inches ?

 

[Dogdaze]

Yes I've done that and it doesn't seem to help at all, last night after the axel was removed I used my grinder with one of those brass wire wheels to hopefully remove whatever's making it so hard to drive out, do they usually just pull out by hand on other bikes after the first couple inches ?

I'll just play devil's advocate, did you loosen the pinch-bolt. and unscrew the spindle all the way? Just asking, as sometimes it's easy to forget one of those......

I did what CW mentioned, centerstand and wood under the wheel to take up weight, slid right out with a tiny tap.

 

[Cycledude]

I'll just play devil's advocate, did you loosen the pinch-bolt. and unscrew the spindle all the way? Just asking, as sometimes it's easy to forget one of those......

I did what CW mentioned, centerstand and wood under the wheel to take up weight, slid right out with a tiny tap.

Yes I did actually completely remove the pinch bolt, then yes I actually had to turn it out the axel with a wrench while driving it out with the rubber hammer otherwise it simply wouldn't move.

I just came from having the tire mounted at the dealer and asked the mechanic about this problem, he said he has experienced the same issue quite a few times, after he gets the axel out he cleans them with emery cloth and lubes it good before putting it back in.

My Goldwing uses pretty much the same axel setup on the front wheel and after about the first inch that axel always pulls out pretty easily by hand. Even though I cleaned it good last night I'm going to spend some more time cleaning and lubeing the axel before putting it back in.

 

[mebgardner]

Yes I did actually completely remove the pinch bolt, then yes I actually had to turn it out the axel with a wrench while driving it out with the rubber hammer otherwise it simply wouldn't move.

I just came from having the tire mounted at the dealer and asked the mechanic about this problem, he said he has experienced the same issue quite a few times, after he gets the axel out he cleans them with emery cloth and lubes it good before putting it back in.

My Goldwing uses pretty much the same axel setup on the front wheel and after about the first inch that axel always pulls out pretty easily by hand. Even though I cleaned it good last night I'm going to spend some more time cleaning and lubeing the axel before putting it back in.

It reads like you've followed all the recommended tricks 'n tips offered here.

So, now I'm wondering if something is bent out of true?

 

[Checkswrecks]

Just pulled mine a couple of days ago to replace tires. Definitely harder to get out than my dirt bike, but I chalked it up to being a much heavier wheel, and having to go through a lot more stuff (pumpkin, brake caliper bracket, etc).

Agree with all this, plus these axles can have pretty rough surfaces. I used a wire wheel and then scotchbrite on mine the first couple of times and always re-assemble after greasing it. It still needs some love taps with a piece of wood and rubber mallet to get out.