Rear Wheel Removal and Replacement Pictorial

[Checkswrecks]

Instead of using wood under the rear tire I slide the blade of a shovel (short handle grain scoop that I use for moving snow). I can make adjustments to the height of the wheel by putting my leg on the handle of the shovel. I have both hands free to deal with the final drive.

Jeff,
Colorado

At home I use a scrap of 2x4 (or whatever) under the tire and it extends beyond the back of the bike. Slide another piece of wood (or anything) under the rear of that first one and slide it toward the bike, levering up till it supports the weight of the tire. On the road, I slide my boot under the back of the tire.

 

[lobo]

Rear and Front Wheel Removal ViDEO

Yamaha XT 1200 Z - Tire change

 

[wfopete]

Just a note:

If you don’t have the wrench that holds the rear axle in place and instead use the rear axle pinch bolt to hold the axle tight so it does not rotate while you tighten the axle nut; REMEMBER after you torque the axle to spec you need to loosen and re-tighten the pinch bolt. If you don’t, while tightening the axle you are basically pulling in the right half side of the swing arm into the wheel, which can cause a host of handling and suspension problems.

 

[Kevhunts]

Hmmm? Wonder how many rotors were warped in the making of that video? ???

 

[Karson]

Hmmm? Wonder how many rotors were warped in the making of that video? ???

Probably none. ::013:: I viewed it as a reminder of how to do it in the field, where I'm not going to have 2x4 scrap or a No Mar to protect the rotor while I break the bead. I'm guessing that was his intent, too, since he chose to set the bead with his Slime pump ::008::

 

[Mchaskell]

Adding my experience to this great thread.

I used a scissors jack for this, but any jack that fit under the pumpkin should work.

I removed the lower shock mounting bolt, using the jack under the pumpkin to raise or lower the swing arm to remove tension on the shock bolt and slide it out.

Next I lowered the the tire to the ground using the jack. As with the shock bolt, fine adjustments of the jack removes the tension on the axel making it easy to slide out.

When reassembling I rolled the wheel back into position. Temporarily replacing the axel and tightening the pinch bolt, I raised the tire just off the ground and lifted/wiggled/cursed until the drive splines aligned.

With the splines aligned in the drive I removed the axel and then reassembled the wheel assembly and shock bolt.

As always YMMV.

 

[Stampy]

Great pictorial, my first time removing both wheels on the S10 and it went without a hitch.
(Love the tip about using the spindle from the drive side to help alignment... 10/10)
Thanks .

 

[edo]

Thanks for the pictorial.
I found that I did not have a washer between the swing arm and rotor has anyone else found this washer missing?
edo

 

[Tengai]

I also appreciate the pictures having done a few tire changes so far.
I think the owners manual sucks the big one having none of this important info ::007::

Now what is the secret on getting the hub to come out with the wheel? Every time I do it the rubber dampers fall out and get jammed between the hub and wheel.i really need 3 hands ::026::

 

[Karson]

I also appreciate the pictures having done a few tire changes so far.
I think the owners manual sucks the big one having none of this important info ::007::

Now what is the secret on getting the hub to come out with the wheel? Every time I do it the rubber dampers fall out and get jammed between the hub and wheel.i really need 3 hands ::026::

Just a little dab of silicone will hold the rubber bits where they need to be

 

[markjenn]

Now what is the secret on getting the hub to come out with the wheel? Every time I do it the rubber dampers fall out and get jammed between the hub and wheel.i really need 3 hands ::026::

Common problem, solved by a big screwdriver wedged between the final drive pumpkin and the cushion carrier at point where you first pull the axle and are starting to work the wheel off the splines. All you need to do is break loose the splines so that the cushion carrier stays with the wheel as you move it sideways.

- Mark

 

[markjenn]

I found that I did not have a washer between the swing arm and rotor has anyone else found this washer missing?

If you don't have this washer, you have a big problem - it establishes the proper spacing of all the components on the rear axle. It is the interface between the right-side axle boss (that is clamped in the swingarm) and the brake carrier. After inserting the axle through the right swingarm, it is the first thing that needs to go on the axle before it enters the brake carrier. You can see it clearly below.

- Mark

 

[edo]

Missing spacer.
I have contacted the dealer and of course its in back order back ordered item.
I have access to machining and can whip one up if someone could let me know the thickness required.
I'm planning on leave on a trip Sat so any info would be appreciated.
thanks in advance
edo

 

[kurtfriedrich]

Great thread, along with the front wheel. Thanks.
I did my front tonite, rear tomorrow.

After I get the rear wheel off, and take it to a dealer to replace the tire, should I remove these rubber dampers (which I have't seen yet) or leave them on the wheel?

thanks

 

[markjenn]

After I get the rear wheel off, and take it to a dealer to replace the tire, should I remove these rubber dampers (which I have't seen yet) or leave them on the wheel?

I remove stuff like this.... one less thing they can lose.

- Mark

 

[WJBertrand]

This pictorial was useful to me, thanks for posting. I didn't have any problem removing the wheel following this, but the damper and driven assembly fell all apart when I went to re-mount the wheel. One has to be careful not to let the weight of the rear wheel "hang" on the spines once they're re-engaged with the final drive. On my second attempt I supported the wheel with a piece 2x4 until I could get the axle through.

My other bike, an ST1300 has a clip that retains that driven plate which eliminates this problem and I had grown lazy.

 

[Checkswrecks]

As Fredz43 pointed out, before sliding the axle out slip a piece of duct tape between the cush assembly and rear drive. That way the cush assembly won't fall apart.

Once the wheel is off, you can remove the duct tape. Same for re-assembly.

 

[deftoner]

I kept thinking, there is any kit made fro the supertenere of tools? I mean I have a dice with 17 19 22, 24 mm hex. Witch works for the Yamaha xt660R, but my new supertenere is 27mm as I read here... I guess need to be some adaptar to save space, and for example to take out the tire from the rim.

 

[Checkswrecks]

See the vendor section. While pricey, there is a nice toolkit there.

 

[Jbusch]

Anyone know the inside diameter of the wheels on my 2013?

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk