Rear Wheel Removal and Replacement Pictorial

Twisties

Active Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
Joined
Aug 12, 2011
Messages
709
Location
Brookings, OR, USA
To remove and replace the rear wheel you will need:

4 mm hex tool
6 mm hex tool
8 mm hex tool
12 mm open or box end wrench
19 mm hex tool
27 mm socket (1 1/16")
Torque wrenches
Breaker bar

Keep magnets away, or you can damage the speed sensor. Never operate the brake when the caliper is removed. Avoid banging the speed sensor, avoid solvents on the speed sensor. Ensure that the bike is properly secured and supported. I do this on the center stand with the front wheel securely chocked.

1. Remove the speed sensor (4 mm hex tool):





2. Remove the axle nut and washer (breaker bar and 27mm socket):







3. Loosen the torque rod (remove torque rod bolts)(6 mm hex tool and 12 mm wrench):

One...



and two...



4. Loosen the pinch bolt (8 mm hex tool):



5. Remove the axle (push and pull, support weight of wheel):



Note the washer will fall out. It goes between the swing arm and the brake caliper housing.

6. Lift away the brake caliper housing and secure it out of the way:



7. Remove the speed sensor housing. In this image you see the speed sensor housing and the back of the brake caliper housing. For reassembly note the point on the brake caliper housing and the flange on the speed sensor housing. They must be properly aligned.



8. The wheel is now free. Some folk have indicated that the rear hub and cush drive have fallen out. Let's take a look.

Here is the wheel with the hub:



The hub is friction fit into the cush drive, and may fall out, along with the rubber dampers. If it does, no worries.

Here is what is inside:



Just fit all the rubber dampers back into place, and fit the hub back on top. A good solid push will slide it all into place.

To replace the wheel, reverse the procedure. EDIT: Place the wheel in position and get the speed sensor housing mounted. Drop in the brake housing. Check the alignment of the speed sensor housing and brake housing. Adjust as necessary. Place the axle in position, and hold the large washer in place between the brake housing and swing arm. Push the axle through the assembly. Thread the axle nut and washer and EDIT2 using a 19mm hex tool to prevent the axle from spinning, /EDIT2 tighten to final torque. Now tighten the axle pinch bolt to final torque. Reassemble and torque the brake torque rod and speed sensor. /EDIT

Torques are:

Axle Nut (27 mm)= 125 NM or 90 ft-lbs
Pinch bolt = 25 Nm or 18 ft-lbs
Brake torque rod = 30 Nm or 22 ft-lbs
Speed sensor = 7 Nm or 5.2 ft-lbs

While you have the wheel off it is a good time to consider:

Checking spoke tension, checking the wheel for damage, checking brake pads and rotor, lubing the axle (for corrosion control), and pulling the pumpkin and lubing the drive shaft.
 

markjenn

Active Member
Founding Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2010
Messages
2,427
Location
Bellingham, WA
Nice work on the pictorial.

What I've found is the problem with the hub and dampers is that when you pull the wheel sideways during removal, the hub will sometimes pull out of the dampers and some will cock sideways and jam. When this happens, it becomes damn difficult to get the wheel out. My approach now is to use a screwdriver or other pry tool between the hub and the pumpkin to break them free of one another and allow the wheel to slide sideways with the dampers in place. During replacement, a whack with a rubber hammer to seat the hub in the dampers will keep the assembly together so you can seat it correctly into the pumpkin.

Due to tolerances, yours may naturally come apart as it should and you're wondering what I'm talking about.

- Mark
 

tomatocity

Active Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 1, 2011
Messages
5,251
Location
Sacramento, CA USA
Twisties, thanks for the step by step with pictures.

Tip: I have been reminded of this from every dual-sport forum I visit. "When doing repairs, use the tools you carry in your motorcycle tool kit." At least once to make sure the tools do the job correctly. Of course most of us will not carry a torque wrench. I have gathered vintage Yamaha axle wrenches, both 27mm, 19mm and the coupler.

Question: is there a step by step, with pictures, for the front wheel?

Thanks again.
 

creggur

Active Member
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
Jan 29, 2012
Messages
1,602
Location
Florida
How do you guys support the front of the bike with both wheels off? What's the best place to use as a support point for a jack? On my VFR you used the headers - is it the same with the Tenere?

Thanks for the pictorial...
 

markjenn

Active Member
Founding Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2010
Messages
2,427
Location
Bellingham, WA
creggur said:
How do you guys support the front of the bike with both wheels off? What's the best place to use as a support point for a jack? On my VFR you used the headers - is it the same with the Tenere?
I have the Motech skid plate and use a 2x4 across this. As I recall the headers are off to one side so not sure they'd work very well as a jack point. I'd try and find a flat spot on the bottom of the engine and use some wood to distribute the load... maybe build a little jig if you can't find a good spot.

Or use a front wheel stand.

- Mark
 

Chicken Helmet

New Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Messages
5
Location
Jacksonville
creggur said:
How do you guys support the front of the bike with both wheels off? What's the best place to use as a support point for a jack? On my VFR you used the headers - is it the same with the Tenere?

Thanks for the pictorial...
I'm thinking if the bike is on the centerstand we can remove the front wheel, slide the axle back in and let it rest on a jackstand and then remove the rear wheel. I would loosen all the hardware first so as not to disturb the bike while being balanced on the stands. Of course i've never worked on one of these so I may be way off on my thinking.
 

jajpko

New Member
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
Joined
Nov 26, 2010
Messages
2,776
Location
North Texas
I use a scissor jack like this one, but mine is not a Handy. When lifting the front of the bike. Just slide it under the engine where the oem plastic engine guard connects to the bike.. Bike needs to be on the center stand

http://www.handyindustries.com/products/lo-boy
 

terrysig

Member
2012 Site Supporter
Joined
Jan 11, 2012
Messages
775
Location
Pittsburgh PA
big thanks for the work. getting ready for the first tire change and this will make it much easier.

+1 on the scissor jack for the front change. although still considering lifting with the sw-moto skid plate versus tak?ing the plate off
 

Twisties

Active Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
Joined
Aug 12, 2011
Messages
709
Location
Brookings, OR, USA
terrysig said:
big thanks for the work. getting ready for the first tire change and this will make it much easier.

+1 on the scissor jack for the front change. although still considering lifting with the sw-moto skid plate versus tak?ing the plate off
I use a floor jack with a piece of wood under the SW-Motech skid plate. Scissor jack should be fine so long as you can distribute the load some with it.
 

EricV

Riding, farkling, riding...
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
May 22, 2011
Messages
8,227
Location
Tupelo, MS
Nice pictorial Twisties.

I only remove the front bolt on the brake caliper tension arm, then just slide the caliper and arm up together and let it hang off to one side.

If you're having difficulty getting the cush drive back into the rubbers, a little silicone spray works well.

If you have the cush drive plate separate from the rubbers and wheel and get stuck, never fear, just remove the four acorn nuts and pull the final drive/driveshaft out with the wheel instead of fighting it. Watch out for the washers under the acorn nuts, as they tend to fall out. There is one under each nut, be sure they are in place when re-attaching the final drive. Might as well lube the splines too and remember to wait until you have it all back together with the wheel fully in place and torqued before doing the final torque of the acorn nuts on the final drive. This prevents any stress or out of alignment potential.
 

markjenn

Active Member
Founding Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2010
Messages
2,427
Location
Bellingham, WA
Chicken Helmet said:
I'm thinking if the bike is on the centerstand we can remove the front wheel, slide the axle back in and let it rest on a jackstand and then remove the rear wheel.
Removing the front wheel first doesn't really alleviate the need for some way to raise the front, although the bike will definitely be more secure resting on a jackstand-supported axle than on a jack under the engine area. (On some bikes, notably old Beemers, the centerstand is deliberately designed to be right at the balance point so you can remove either wheel without further jacking.)

If I'm changing both tires, I remove the rear wheel first. Often it is easier this way because with the rear wheel off, you can briefly raise the front high enough to roll the wheel out easily from under the fender without the rear wheel constraining the front lift.

- Mark
 

Alan

New Member
2011 Site Supporter
Joined
Oct 10, 2011
Messages
90
When replacing the rear wheel, should lubricant (what kind) be added to the hub gear and final drive gear? It looks like this should be done but I'm missing it in these instructions and in the service manual.
 

EricV

Riding, farkling, riding...
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
May 22, 2011
Messages
8,227
Location
Tupelo, MS
Alan said:
When replacing the rear wheel, should lubricant (what kind) be added to the hub gear and final drive gear? It looks like this should be done but I'm missing it in these instructions and in the service manual.
I typically use some Honda Moly 60 grease for those items. Not a bad thing to smear a dab on at tire change intervals and do some inspection. Don't get carried away, or it will spooge out and make a mess. Just wipe off some of the old, add some fresh, smear or brush it around the gear a bit, the mating action of the parts will do the rest.
 

TreeMuncher

Member
2012 Site Supporter
Vendor
Joined
Apr 29, 2012
Messages
114
Location
West TN
Thanks for posting this. I wish that I had it the first time I changed a tire. I guess that I have been doing most of it right.

The only difference in my method is that I never remove the rear brake torque rod nor the caliper. After the axle is removed, I just lift the whole assembly up and out of the way. I keep just enough tension on the bolts to hold it up and out of the way during the wheel removal/installation. I must be lazy - doing only as much as I need to.
 

Rasher

Active Member
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
Joined
Sep 25, 2011
Messages
1,955
Location
UK
I also put a smear of grease on the Axle, mine was almost seized in place at 3800 summer miles :exclaim:

For holding the front up, I just use a small Jerry can I have, just lift the front a bit and kick it under the sump - the same can worked perfectly on my old GS as well, don't think I have used it for fuel in the last 10 years (nor would I now, probably full of rust) but it saves me having to buy a jack or front stand.
 

ov1

Member
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 7, 2012
Messages
129
Location
Ontario, Canada
Just to add to the installation procedure.
Make sure you loosen the swingarm pinch bolt (after the axle bolt is torqued 90lbs) so the swing arm is unsprung and free, then re-Torque the pinch bolt to 18lbs. ( you may need to use a rubber mallet to free up the swingarm)


Maybe this could be added to the start of the thread?
 

Dallara

Creaks When Walks
Founding Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2010
Messages
2,195
Location
South Texas
ov1 said:
Just to add to the installation procedure.
Make sure you loosen the swingarm pinch bolt (after the axle bolt is torqued 90lbs) so the swing arm is unsprung and free, then re-Torque the pinch bolt to 18lbs. ( you may need to use a rubber mallet to free up the swingarm)


Maybe this could be added to the start of the thread?

Hate to say this... But you shouldn't be tightening the axle nut with the pinch bolt tightened down on the axle. That's definitely the *WRONG* way. You should be using the proper internal hex wrench to hold the axle as you tighten the nut, and then, only *AFTER* you have properly tightened it should you tighten the pinch bolt on the swingarm.

If you are tightening the pinch bolt to use that to hold the axle as you tighten the axle nut you are putting a lot of bending stress on the swingarm unnecessarily... *AND* you won't actually get the proper torque on the nut.

There's a few good reasons why the factory service manual lays out the tightening procedure the way it does. ;)

Just FYI...

Dallara



~
 

markjenn

Active Member
Founding Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2010
Messages
2,427
Location
Bellingham, WA
Rather than using the pinch bolt to hold the axle while tightening the axle nut, I use a separate hex wrench on the axle. Then tighten the pinch bolt. Having said this, I don't see any harm in snugging the axle nut, tightening the pinch bolt to hold the axle, tightening the axle nut to final torque, then backing off and re-tightening the pinch bolt.

- Mark
 

Dallara

Creaks When Walks
Founding Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2010
Messages
2,195
Location
South Texas
markjenn said:
Rather than using the pinch bolt to hold the axle while tightening the axle nut, I use a separate hex wrench on the axle. Then tighten the pinch bolt. Having said this, I don't see any harm in snugging the axle nut, tightening the pinch bolt to hold the axle, tightening the axle nut to final torque, then backing off and re-tightening the pinch bolt.

- Mark

Well, except that tightening the axle nut with the axle pinched by the bolt in the swingarm winds the axle up like a torsion bar/spring, which gives you an improper torque reading if you're using a torque wrench... then the axle tries to unwind when you loosen the pinch bolt, leaving you with less than the torque you initially put in. ;)

As was mentioned in post # 28 in this thread, there's a right way, and a wrong way, to tighten the rear axle and nut. The choice is up to you... 8)

Dallara



~
 
  • Like
Reactions: ov1
Top