Rear brake pedal frozen

[Derek]

Update: my rear brake pedal doesn't feel anything when cycling the ABS. The rear caliper still is not bleeding. The rear reservoir is still full so it's not taking fluid into the system at all. I disconnected the brake line going into the caliper and nothing came out, so the line is essentially empty. I pressed the brake pedal with it disconnected and nothing came out.

So even though the brake pedal is moving something is blocking the fluid. Again, all symptoms seem to point to the ABS unit. Just for grins I hooked up my MightVac to the caliper bleeder and pumped it up to about 20 psi, I removed the cap from the reservoir and wedged the brake pedal down to see if I can gravity bleed it. This usually works in non-ABS systems, but since the ABS unit is uphill from the rear master cylinder, I'm not sure this will work. But anything is worth a try.

I'm open to more suggestions. Replacing the ABS looks expensive and time consuming.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Like the gent from NZ I bypassed the rear brake portion of the abs unit. Obviously they're no longer linked, but the brakes work.

 

[gunslinger_006]

It sounds like the abs unit for sure now.

Your two options are replace the unit, or bypass it entirely.

I would just replace it, or trade it in on a newer tenere and move all my farkles over. The linked brakes + abs are a huge part of why i bought this bike.


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[WJBertrand]

Another option? https://www.upfix.com/how-it-works/abs-repair/

 

[gunslinger_006]

Another option? https://www.upfix.com/how-it-works/abs-repair/

That looks promising. IIUC the tenere unit is made by bosch, so they might service it.


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[Derek]

I've read a few of you have bypassed the ABS. How is that done?

 

[gunslinger_006]

I've read a few of you have bypassed the ABS. How is that done?

Connect the master cylinder line directly to the rear caliper, removing the factory line that goes through the abs module.


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[WJBertrand]

That looks promising. IIUC the tenere unit is made by bosch, so they might service it.


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Looks like there are a few companies out there doing modulator repairs.


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[jrusell]

I've read a few of you have bypassed the ABS. How is that done?

Mikeinnz has a good thread on his issues with ABS. Look at his thread and the pic on page #2 post #30. Very simple method to turn your bike back to a normal operating system.
index.php

This is the way I will go if I ever have an issue.

 

[Derek]

Done. And done. It was not trivial to get the bend in the pipes. I know the trick about filling it with sand or something to keep it from crimping on you. But that really only works with copper pipes. I didn't want to use copper pipes for a brake line. It really requires steel brake lines. So I ended up flaring the ends with a short straight pipe and then heating it with a torch and bending it slowly. The one on the ABS unit is near perfect. The one on the brake line manifold has a slight crimp in it, but not too bad.

Anyway, the rear brake bled fine and the rear brake is solid and responsive now. I need to put everything back together and give it a test ride. But as long as the ABS light doesn't come on I'll be happy.

Thanks everyone for the help.

 

[gunslinger_006]

Sucks to lose rear abs and linked brakes.

If this happens to mine i will replace the abs module, even though it sucks $$$ to do so.


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[RonH]

Good job on the repair bypassing the ABS unit. I never wanted ABS or linked brakes. By doing this mod, the ABS warning light is not constantly lit?

 

[WJBertrand]

Sucks to lose rear abs and linked brakes.

If this happens to mine i will replace the abs module, even though it sucks $$$ to do so.


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There are a few companies out there doing repair/rebuilds on ABS modules. Should save a few $$ should it ever be needed.


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[gunslinger_006]

There are a few companies out there doing repair/rebuilds on ABS modules. Should save a few $$ should it ever be needed.


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Yeah my thought would be to buy a new one and send the old one to be rebuilt, then keep it as a spare or sell it.


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[Derek]

Normally I would have replaced the ABS unit. But I'm currently out of work and can't blow that kind of money at the moment. Maybe when things "normalize" for me I'll think about it. But honestly I probably won't because its a non-trivial amount of work. If the ABS light comes on I'll think about it.

 

[gunslinger_006]

Normally I would have replaced the ABS unit. But I'm currently out of work and can't blow that kind of money at the moment. Maybe when things "normalize" for me I'll think about it. But honestly I probably won't because its a non-trivial amount of work. If the ABS light comes on I'll think about it.

I hear you. Especially this year.


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[patrickg450]

make sure you report the failure of an ABS

 

[cantona72]

Unfortunately I have the same symptoms and Yamaha dealer here in Greece after trying all the methods that have been proposed also here, became to the conclusion =ABS unit

For the moment I'm not able to buy a new one, so we'll try to find a second hand and for now to bypass mine.

Some questions...
-My bike is 1st gen, will second gen (after 2013) unit fit with no issues? Wider search for second hand...
A friend of mine has 2017 ES model and he is willing to give me his unit to test....but if we know that won't work, don't bother him and his bike.

-If bypass the rear brake (with the U pipes), do we have a permanent solution or after some hundred of km the problem will come back and I have to bleed the system again and again?
-With this method we lose combined braking, do I get it correct?
-Finally, the ABS light working as before, or lights on constantly?

 

[gunslinger_006]

Id be interested to know:

1). How often were the brakes flushed on the bikes with abs failure? Was the abs module cycled for the flush?

2). How often was the abs activiated?

I flush my brakes often and always activate the abs and reflush. I use the abs often, maybe activating it deliberately once per ride.

I am hoping this keeps my module from failing like this. It seems rare.


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