Rear Brake pads and Rotor replacement

Brick

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Well at 67,321 miles my rear rotor looked bad... all groves and had a notch at the outer edge. The rear pads were gone so it was a perfect time to replace the rotor too. My 2012 sold at 80,800 miles still had the original rotor so this was strange to me. I have always used the stock Yamaha rear pads.

Both tires were gone so I bought them too. The last tires Bridgestone A40’s gave me over 8,000 miles so I thought I’d try the new Bridgestone A41’s.

By the way I lost a nipple on a front spoke and a rear spoke fell apart while torquing them. So I replaced the problem spokes and torqued them all with locktite.

Here is a photo of the finished rear wheel ready for installation.


Any wisdom on this?

No test ride yet.

Brick



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RCinNC

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I've already replaced the rear rotor on my 2014, and that was at 40,956 miles. Same issue as yours; a pronounced lip on the rotor. The thickness was also below spec. I suspect is was from the use of EBC pads and an OEM rotor, but I don't have any way to verify that.
 

Sierra1

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That worn rotor looks like it has been cooked. Metal on metal. Heavy usage. Don't know your riding style enough to speculate on the how.
 

Brick

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That worn rotor looks like it has been cooked. Metal on metal. Heavy usage. Don't know your riding style enough to speculate on the how.
No metal on metal ever. This is a the first time in over 50 years of riding that needed to replace a rotor. It’s a Yamaha part.




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HeliMark

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Replaced my rear rotor at 52,000 miles. Below spec and have always used OEM pads. I just figured the increased wear was due to all the commuting I did with using only the rear brake at slow speeds.
 

Cycledude

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Rear rotor on my 2013 was pretty near worn out at 50,000 when I traded for a new 2018, I think the very wet sloppy ride to Prudehoe Bay in 2016 was the main reason it wore out so fast.

Rotor prices from Yamaha or Honda are crazy high ! I have bought rotors for my Honda off eBay shipped from China that work just as well for a fraction of the price but you have to be very careful to get the right ones, even if you order the right ones some sellers ship the wrong ones, in my case I let others do the experimenting then ordered what they recommended.
 

Don in Lodi

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I've replace my rear rotor on my '12 at 60,xxx. Seems like a wear item to me. The fronts still look real good.
 

2daMax

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I am kind of surprised on the picture of the original Yamaha rear pads, it being brass/bronze colored. I am not expert but from all the online pictures of brake pads, it appears that Sintered pads and some brass based semi-metallic has this color. I would be thinking the original pads would have dark color for being Organic. (and since it wears out so fast). Anyone know what pad material is on the original pads? I thought they were Organic.

One reason for the rear pads/rotor shorter than expected lifespan could be the constant scrubbing between pads and rotor even when the brakes are not used. The rotors being pretty warm to the touch is an indication of the scrubbing. The front rotors remain cool as a comparison...in fact, very cool. The single sided piston brake assembly of the rear are the reason for such characteristics, as opposed to the front's double sided pistons.

To some good effect, the rear caliper's 2 sliding bolts should be lube with Silicone grease (high temp and rubber friendly) so that the caliper assembly can adjusts its 'float' to auto center itself better.....gets cooler rotor temperatures but it is still warm nevertheless.

I had the rear pads changed recently, and did refill the reservoir sometime earlier, causing the reservoir to overfill. The new pads could not move further out causing the rotor to heat up even more. Bleed out a little fluid to the correct level will ease up on the scrubbing.
 
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Curt

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I'm embarrassed to say I that a few years ago @24k I let my rear pads wear down to metal on metal.

I blame it on the fact that the brakes are linked, so the rear gets used more than intended, and wears faster than expected. On all my bikes I have a habit (good habit?) of using both brakes all the time, in a ratio that is right for the situation. The linked brakes mess that up, and probably result in the linkage being disabled variously at random, whenever I happen to hit the rear brake a bit sooner than the front. I don't want/need/like linked brakes.

I caught the metal-on-metal right away and just replaced the pads. Next time around @32k the ridge on the rotor felt deeper than I wanted, so I replaced it.
 

Sierra1

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There are NO hard and fast rules when it comes to brake pads & rotors; except the more aggressive the pad material, the more wear you will observe. I know...duh. But, each manufacturer uses different shit....again, duh.

The Beemer I rode, would get almost 30K miles out of the front pads, and 10K out of the rear; not linked brakes. The Honda would get 5K miles, front & back; linked brakes. Both were driven the in the same manner; aggressively. Both gave very similar braking feel. But neither of them ever needed a rotor replacement. Admittedly, the Honda only had 30K miles, but the Beemer had over 60K. No "lips" on the rotors. And, only OE pads were ever used. Make your own conclusions. All of these rotors having to be replaced concerns me. I would have expected more out of Yamaha.

I also have learned that due to the way she carries her weight, I rarely use the rear pedal. I do love that when I am riding a technical/tight pattern/course I can use JUST my back brake; MUCH better control when the front brake does not interfere.
 

~TABASCO~

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Ive changed out so many stock ones over the years, I think I'm going to try a rear Galfer on mine with there pads. I'm about due for a new one.
 
B

ballisticexchris

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Ive changed out so many stock ones over the years, I think I'm going to try a rear Galfer on mine with there pads. I'm about due for a new one.
I plan on getting a full set of Galfer braided lines and ceramic coated pads (front) at first brake change.

FD178G1375 HH Sintered Advanced Ceramic Brake Pad font

FD295G1371 1371 HH Sintered Brake Pad rear

I have used Galfer pads on quite a few of my dirt bikes with no drama other than the normal squeal that’s associated with sintered pads.

I will say I’m nervous to change out the brake lines. With 9 lines, 18 connections that’s a lot of brake bleeding!!

I know all too well the outstanding performance gain with braided lines. It’s hard to tell by just seat of the pants. It’s the decreased stopping distant that is impressive.
 

WJBertrand

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I’ve not been impressed with the quality of the Ténéré’s rotors. The rear one looks like it’s been running metal on metal (it hasn’t) and the second set of fronts feel like they are warping again. I’m keen to try aftermarket brakes all around.


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jaquima

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I am changing my rear rotor at 20,000 miles. My bike is primarily used for commuting during the non-snowy/icy months. Although the rotor still measures above the limit, it is getting close enough for me to replace it along with a new tire. I need all the braking confidence I can get considering all of the impatient and inattentive drivers I encounter on the roads.
 

EricV

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I plan on getting a full set of Galfer braided lines and ceramic coated pads (front) at first brake change.
<snip>

I know all too well the outstanding performance gain with braided lines. It’s hard to tell by just seat of the pants. It’s the decreased stopping distant that is impressive.
You will be disappointed. There is no performance gain for braided lines on a bike with ABS. The ABS solenoid has to 'float' to do it's job. It is compensating for variations in brake pressure, after all. You'll never get that rock hard brake lever/pedal feel you get with braided lines on a non-ABS system. And yes, people still try it. And it feels pretty much the same as before. You do benefit from tougher lines that are more resistant to damage. Be careful to route them correctly and maintain the factory strain reliefs.
 

EricV

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I am changing my rear rotor at 20,000 miles. My bike is primarily used for commuting during the non-snowy/icy months. Although the rotor still measures above the limit, it is getting close enough for me to replace it along with a new tire. I need all the braking confidence I can get considering all of the impatient and inattentive drivers I encounter on the roads.
Shorter trips with more braking are hard on brakes in general.

How many miles each way for your commute? I'm wondering out loud if perhaps a smaller, lighter bike would be more friendly on the budget for commuting.
 

Grumpy

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When I got my 2011 it had 2000 miles on the clock. I put another couple of thousand miles on it before I checked the rear pads. I found the inner pad was nearly down to the metal, the outside pad was barely halfway down. It was the 2 bolts being bone dry that caused the inner to ride against the rota. A good clean, grease up and new pads, I was lucky I caught it in time to save the disc. Now with 36K miles, the lipping is noticeable, but still passed the annual MOT (M.O.T. is the U.K. compulsory safety check for private vehicles over 3 years old, regardless of mileage)
 

EricV

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You can remove the lip too. It makes things a little nicer are tire change time when you're pulling the caliper off. I've not bothered in the past. Perhaps I will when it shows up on the Gen II bike.
 
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