Pro Taper Evo ADV High Bar Install (with original question)

BadNews

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May 13, 2012
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Got my High bars project finished up yesterday. The stock mirrors won't work if you use a Madstad bracket angled back more than a little, and a Parabellum screen. I have some bar-end mirrors which I have used in the past, but I'm looking for some mirrors that mount in the stock location but are more adjustable for height and angle, etc. I usually use the stock screen in the summer, so the Parabellum is coming off anyway.
This is an excellent thread, thanks, Alan.
 

BadNews

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Went ahead and re-installed my bar-end mirrors, can now turn lock to lock with Parabellum screen on Madstad bracket angled all the way back and down.
D7BB900A-EE78-4901-BC76-A9A2EBE840EF.jpeg
 
Joined
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Thanks very much for all the instructions and experiences, all very helpful! Got my 'adventure high' bars installed this weekend. 6'5" 250 with gear. I am surprised and thankful a vendor makes this product. It seems perfect for a tall guy who likes to stand riding, so I'm happily surprised!

I feel a little like Henry Fonda on a dual sport but will add a seat cushion for some extra height. It took all of a minute of quick study to like the strange appearance better :)

For those in the market, I extended the clutch and front brake master cylinder lines using an extension from AV Motorad. It wasn't a cheap or pretty solution but has worked well.

Thanks Pro Taper and MV Motorad!

I'll post some pics to the 'what did you do to your Tenere...' thread...

Cheers JT
 
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Joined
Dec 9, 2019
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Its an Airhawk. Inflated properly it is very comfortable. Same company makes cushions for wheelchair bound people. I don’t use it to add height to the seat.

Thanks, just ordered the medium cruiser based on some other reviews, the size seems to match the seat well. Looking forward to it!
 

BadNews

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After riding with my new ProTaper EVO Adventure high bars for while, I've noticed that when I turn the bars all the way to the right, the throttle cable tube gets bent enough to pinch the cable inside and causes the throttle to stick. Fortunately when I'm turning that tight it is always at low throttle, so no big problem. I would like to know how to reroute my throttle cables to get a little more slack, though. Has anyone rerouted their their throttle cable, and if so, how did you do it? TIA.
 

BadNews

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Rerouted the throttle cables finally. I was worried that the pinching at full right lock would eventually put a crimp in the cable. Flipped the housing 180*, all good now.
 

Jdubco

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Mar 30, 2021
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Colorado
Bit late to the game, but also being in denver and needing some longer lines, this post is PERFECT thanks for this detailed write up looks like im headed to whisler/hose works.
 

keithert

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Apr 1, 2021
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Chicago
If I already have a Helibar riser would the low bar be the one to use? I'm thinking that the clutch line clamp relocate and the brake line extender installed for the riser will give enough room for the cables.
 
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blueten

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Jun 29, 2020
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Washington DC
Took the Brake and Clutch hoses off the bike.
I took them over to "Hose Works" here in Denver (It's inside Whisler Bearing on the north side of I-70) this morning.
The guy (Rick) made them for me while I waited. Took a little less than an hour, and he was very particular about the details. He did a really nice job with them.
I had them made 3-inches longer than stock.
They use DOT approved SS-braided line and fittings, and he pressure-tests them to 3000psi when finished.

I thought about just ordering the lines from Jaxon, but I wanted to do away with the two junctions in the middle of the Clutch line.
I had them make a one-piece line for the entire length.
Plus he had a fitting with a Tab on it for the Brake hose, so I can just bolt it back to the frame.

Both lines, with Tax and (6) new copper-washers came to just under $120.

View attachment 54535
@SkunkWorks would you happen to remember the final length of the clutch and brake line? Also, would you mind explaining how the abs module come input play with bleeding the brakes. I am wondering if ABS and the fact that the front and rear brakes are linked makes the bleeding process much more complicated than usual.
 

SkunkWorks

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I didn't measure the final lengths of the lines.
I had brought my old ones in to compare, and just had them made 3-inches longer.

I cycled the ABS several times during the flush/bleed process (as is recommended) to circulate fresh fluid through the whole system.
I ended up replacing all the fluid in the whole brake system (front and rear), as well as the clutch system when I did the extended lines.
There is a procedure outlined in the service manual on how to cycle the ABS system while stationary...............(you could also cycle it by applying hard braking on gravel)
 

keithert

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Apr 1, 2021
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I currently have a helibar 1 inch up and 1.5 inch back riser. I also have a plain one inch riser. For the helibar I used the brake line extention that comes with the kit. I also moved the clutch line forward one inch in the mounting. If I use a low ATV bar with the one inch riser I have will that be about the same as the ATV high bar. Also am I likely to have enough room using the extentions I have done?
 

kjetil4455

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Sep 16, 2022
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Location
Colombia
I installed the Pro Taper EVO high bars and extended lines last night on my 2013. These bars fixed my neck and back issues and fit me perfect (6.5"). The black is much better looking than the stock silver.

The install:
I tried the bars without the extended lines moving the stock ones around and bended the guides and they were still way too tight. I installed the Jaxon lines. Jaxon (aka. ~TABASCO~) got them to me in a couple of days. I still have some work to clean up the routing and secure the hard line junctions. - All good.

I filed off the position buttons on the controls, tightened them up and they don't move. I wanted the freedom to change the angles.
On my 2013 the right control electrical supply wires were tight at lock, the routing was incorrect. Even after I corrected the routing, I felt they were still too tight. I moved the control inboard ~15mm from the throttle to correct, I still can comfortably reach the kill switch with my thumb. Happy I removed the button and didn't drill. Dry fit everything and test if you're going to drill. As Steve said, "I needed every last bit, including the bar end weights." - All good.

Since I had the bars apart, I decided to add Oxford heated grips. Nice add and clean install, very happy. Michigan spring huh, snowed yesterday. - All good.

Notes for 2013 owners - I did have issues with my handguards, weights, and Kakao cruise control. They were secured at bar end with M8 bolts so threading the end of the new bar was not an option unlesss I wanted to buy all new. I ended up buying Tusk D-Flex Bar-End Clamp Handlebar Inserts and uxcell M8x150mm Thread 304 Stainless Steel Hex Socket Head Cap Screw Bolt DIN912 to make it all work. A shorter M8 (<150mm) would have worked, I was getting impatient trying to find long enough bolts to fit and went overboard. In the end (ptp) everything is secure - All good.

Brake reservoir question??? - On a stock 2013 with everything in proper position, is the brake reservoir perfectly horizontal / level? Mine is not and can't remeber if it was on the stock bars.
Hi buddy where can I buy those extended lines? thanks
 
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