Oxygen Sendors Torque Settings

RH_SCOTLAND

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Sep 7, 2015
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62
Location
SW Scotland
One of my sensors is letting a little exhaust gas escape.

Are there any known issues with sensors leaking or is it simply needing nipped up?

Anyone know torque for sensor into exhaust?

TIA
 

Alexander

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Mar 8, 2020
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Kansas City
Manual shows 33 ft-lb / 45 Nm.

Oxygen sensors typically seal by a crush washer. I'd try tightening it first to see if you can get it to seal -- if it still leaks, replace the crush washer.

You definitely want to get it fixed, as the leak will cause erroneous sensor readings and throw off fueling corrections.
 

RH_SCOTLAND

Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2015
Messages
62
Location
SW Scotland
Aye, was going to nip it up in morning, but want sure if there was a specific setting. See if I can get away with that.

But I’ll order a new crush washer just in case.
 

Alexander

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Mar 8, 2020
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Location
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Sounds good.

The manual says it's an M18 thread, so you'd likely need an M18/20 crush washer, but I'd need to measure the I.D./O.D. to be certain of what will fit. There doesn't appear to be an OEM part number for the crush washer itself -- they typically come pre-installed on new oxygen sensors. After they've been crushed, they aren't always easy to remove without cutting the old one off.

Hopefully it'll seal up fine if you just re-torque it. I've frequently reused oxygen sensors without replacing the crush washer, and never had a problem.
 

Alexander

Active Member
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Mar 8, 2020
Messages
83
Location
Kansas City
What year is your bike?

Looks like there was an internal change between model years. For example:
2012: p/n 23P-8592A-00-00
2019: p/n 2BS-8592A-10-00

Typically, OEM sensors are just relabeled sensors from one of the major sensor manufacturers (Bosch, AC Delco, Denso, etc). Problem is, I don't know which brand Yamaha uses, or if they indeed make their own. I usually try to stay with the OEM brand on O2 sensors, as they are among the most important sensors on the engine, and some aftermarket sensors don't play well with stock ECUs. It looks to me like there are aftermarket brands available for the Tenere, but they're still nearly as expensive as OEM, and I've no idea if they might cause compatibility issues -- as such, I can't personally recommend them. If I were in your shoes, I'd stick with OEM to be certain, but we can try to hunt down the cheapest source.

The other problem I have is that I don't like replacing parts "willy-nilly" without good reason to believe that the old ones are faulty, especially when the parts are expensive (-the exception being if they're very old). Narrowband O2 sensors will rapidly oscillate between 100mV (lean) and 900mV (rich) when warmed up in closed loop. A bad sensor will usually stop oscillating and hover at one spot, which causes long term fuel trim to bottom out or max out. But you'd need diagnostic hardware/software (or oscilloscope) to verify. You might be able to bench-test it with a propane torch and voltmeter, but that's getting into areas that may be more trouble than they're worth.

Probably more information that you were looking for, but it's there if you want it. Others may have different opinions.
 
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