Ordering a left switch cluster to have a Euro hazard & flash to pass

[528Hz]

Ok I have a rather stupid question :

How can I check if my bike is EU or not? My dealer says it is but I don't have the hazard or the f2p switch :'(

If you don't have euro switch then you are going to need one anyway. There may be something in the Vin number. You can call Yamaha directly.

 

[EricV]

Ok I have a rather stupid question :

How can I check if my bike is EU or not? My dealer says it is but I don't have the hazard or the f2p switch :'(

If you don't have the red immobilizer key, you don't have a EU bike. If you have the red key and immobilizer, but no 4 way or F2P switch, it might just be plug and play for your bike. Otherwise you'll need to follow the instructions earlier in this thread to get it to work.

 

[nwrider]

How long did it take for your new switch to clear US Customs? Two days from Japan to Los Angeles
and it's been sitting there since last Thursday! Not sure how to follow up. :-[

 

[Buelligan]

It took about 8 days total for mine to show up, from the time I ordered it until it showed up at my door.
I just did the soldering, and will install tomorrow morning.
Thanks to ChecksWrecks for starting this endeavor, and to Andy for finding this for us, and showing us the mod needed to make it work.
::008:: ::012:: ::003::

 

[muddysoles]

If you don't have the red immobilizer key, you don't have a EU bike. If you have the red key and immobilizer, but no 4 way or F2P switch, it might just be plug and play for your bike. Otherwise you'll need to follow the instructions earlier in this thread to get it to work.

No, don't have the red immobilizer key. So I guess it's not an EU bike after all!

If you don't have euro switch then you are going to need one anyway. There may be something in the Vin number. You can call Yamaha directly.

Yes, ordering one. ::010::

 

[nwrider]

I guess US customs is just slow. Scheduled for delivery tomorrow. ::012::

 

[pqsqac]

Re: Ordering a left switch cluster to have a Euro hazard & flash to pass

Andy I need some help I've traced the stock harness to the right side but it is wedged pretty tight under 2 plugs that I can't budge. They don't look like normal plugs but longer housings and they are stacked on top of each other. The harness is under them tucked inside a bigger plastic boot cover. Can you tell me how you gained access I'm stuck. Thanks

It is tucked in pretty well and terminates just above the battery under the right side cover. Tank removal would certainly help with access but you may be able to fish it out without.

ETA:

I had my tank off when I did this and I forget about the connector that goes under the tank and ends up at the horn. Pretty sure you couldn't get this pulled out or reinstalled after unless the tank is at least raised.

 

[AndyCBR]

Ordering a left switch cluster to have a Euro hazard & flash to pass

Andy I need some help I've traced the stock harness to the right side but it is wedged pretty tight under 2 plugs that I can't budge. They don't look like normal plugs but longer housings and they are stacked on top of each other. The harness is under them tucked inside a bigger plastic boot cover. Can you tell me how you gained access I'm stuck. Thanks

Hey man it is pretty tight up in there. It may help to have the tank off and loosen up the rhs plastic sub panel to have more room to get slack on the wires. I also folded over the rubber boot to help with access. Your probably dealing with wires that were run and bundled on an assembly line on a bare frame.

Take your time and don't be afraid to unplug other connectors that are in the way.

I love my bike and I consider it well put together and easy to work on with exception of the electrical under the right cover. It's definitely 10 pounds of shit in a 5 pound bag!

Hope this helps!

Andy

 

[BWC]

Andy I need some help I've traced the stock harness to the right side but it is wedged pretty tight under 2 plugs that I can't budge. They don't look like normal plugs but longer housings and they are stacked on top of each other. The harness is under them tucked inside a bigger plastic boot cover. Can you tell me how you gained access I'm stuck. Thanks

I think you found the same two that I did when I installed the new left switch cluster. The front one (outermost) is clipped to the inner, and it is clipped to the main electrical tray base. Flashlight and a thin, long & small screwdriver in from the top of the inner one (next to the tray) to release that clip and slide both straight up & off the main tray. They are a pain to get off. Hope this helps.

 

[pqsqac]

This is exactly what I'm dealing with I have been fighting to get these two out of the way. I didn't want to break any hidden clips or something. Your info is a big help thanks.

I think you found the same two that I did when I installed the new left switch cluster. The front one (outermost) is clipped to the inner, and it is clipped to the main electrical tray base. Flashlight and a thin, long & small screwdriver in from the top of the inner one (next to the tray) to release that clip and slide both straight up & off the main tray. They are a pain to get off. Hope this helps.

 

[pqsqac]

Finally success on removing those two pesky switches but I do think I will remove the tank and airbox per your suggestion just t be sure I am not missing anything important.

I think you found the same two that I did when I installed the new left switch cluster. The front one (outermost) is clipped to the inner, and it is clipped to the main electrical tray base. Flashlight and a thin, long & small screwdriver in from the top of the inner one (next to the tray) to release that clip and slide both straight up & off the main tray. They are a pain to get off. Hope this helps.

 

[nwrider]

The good news is I hooked the new switch up on a temporary basis to make sure everything worked - yes. The bad news is that once everything was in place and buttoned up - no horn. Lights hi/lo, FTP, turn signals and hazard flash all work. I have a Stebel horn and the relay, fuse and wiring all check out. However, I'm not getting continuity on the horn leads from the new switch when the horn is depressed. Other than a bad connection in the horn switch, the only other thing I can think of is a blown horn fuse. Problem is, the owners manual doesn't identify a separate horn fuse or it's location if combined with another circuit. Before I tear into the switch itself, I'm hoping someone has identified which circuit the horn is on so I can check the fuse. Anyone?

TIA
John

 

[snakebitten]

Ordering a left switch cluster to have a Euro hazard & flash to pass

Rode the 2013 FJR.

Why can't we order the slick new Start cluster to our Tenere?
That would give us our hazards too.

I love the Kill/start rocker switch. Kinda proves killing the engine with the kill switch is an intended routine!

 

[EricV]

Hadn't noticed that, but makes sense with all the CC stuff on the left side switch housing. Probably a bit more wiring for us to adapt it to the Super Ten, but likely do-able.

 

[nwrider]

"Other than a bad connection in the horn switch, the only other thing I can think of is a blown horn fuse. "

Well, there was a third possibility -- one of the wires to the horn got cut about 6" from the end -- somehow during the installation. Not sure how it happened, but at least it's easily fixable.

 

[snakebitten]

Ordering a left switch cluster to have a Euro hazard & flash to pass

Hadn't noticed that, but makes sense with all the CC stuff on the left side switch housing. Probably a bit more wiring for us to adapt it to the Super Ten, but likely do-able.

I think you are right. Technically, it is the exact same functions as our start-kill-mode-button cluster, but with the hazard switch added. And the Kill\start button just makes more and more sense as I think about it. I marvel at the common sense of them being one switch.

Bet outta habit I would turn on the hazards a few times trying to start the bike though.

 

[EricV]

Re: Ordering a left switch cluster to have a Euro hazard & flash to pass

I think you are right. Technically, it is the exact same functions as our start-kill-mode-button cluster, but with the hazard switch added. And the Kill\start button just makes more and more sense as I think about it. I marvel at the common sense of them being one switch.

Bet outta habit I would turn on the hazards a few times trying to start the bike though.

I'm liking this idea more and more. The switch seems to be available in the parts system at the moment, (the other side with all the CC stuff is not), and runs $75-86 from various vendors I've checked so far. P/N - 1MC-83963-00-00 "Switch, Handle 3"

I'm guessing it would be necessary to pull the pins out of the plugs and use the plugs from the original switch, plus run a few wires for the flasher button, but should be possible to wire it either stock or with flashers still available with the key off.

I'm reluctant to spend the money to accomplish something I have already done for much cheaper. I also wonder about the clearance for the larger switch assy. considering our throttle cables go over the top, rather than the FJR's underneath routing, (the way ours probably should have been to begin with!) It appears there is plenty of room and the orientation is close enough to work fine, but until someone does it, we won't know for sure.

I do like both the clean-ness of the solution if you just want flashers, and the location of the switch. No reach up front, it's right there on the bars where it should be. Hmmm.

 

[snakebitten]

Ordering a left switch cluster to have a Euro hazard & flash to pass

I'm liking this idea more and more. The switch seems to be available in the parts system at the moment, (the other side with all the CC stuff is not), and runs $75-86 from various vendors I've checked so far. P/N - 1MC-83963-00-00 "Switch, Handle 3"

I'm guessing it would be necessary to pull the pins out of the plugs and use the plugs from the original switch, plus run a few wires for the flasher button, but should be possible to wire it either stock or with flashers still available with the key off.

I'm reluctant to spend the money to accomplish something I have already done for much cheaper. I also wonder about the clearance for the larger switch assy. considering our throttle cables go over the top, rather than the FJR's underneath routing, (the way ours probably should have been to begin with!) It appears there is plenty of room and the orientation is close enough to work fine, but until someone does it, we won't know for sure.

I do like both the clean-ness of the solution if you just want flashers, and the location of the switch. No reach up front, it's right there on the bars where it should be. Hmmm.

I'm in if you found a good place to order from. I promise to document my efforts.
Want to PM me the source you feel most comfortable with? I haven't ordered from any Yamaha online sources before. (Or post it if that is not frowned upon. I never know the rules. I break them anyways)

 

[EricV]

Re: Ordering a left switch cluster to have a Euro hazard & flash to pass

I'm in if you found a good place to order from. I promise to document my efforts.
Want to PM me the source you feel most comfortable with? I haven't ordered from any Yamaha online sources before. (Or post it if that is not frowned upon. I never know the rules. I break them anyways)

I found several vendors with prices under $86, but when I went thru the checkout process on most of them, it would be $12-17+ in shipping costs.

This one has it for $75 and change, but I didn't go thru and find out what shipping was. BoatPartGuy

Parts Shark was pretty decent price - $75.78 and $12.50 shipping to my zip. $88.28 total. I've dealt with them in the past and they are a good vendor. LINK

This seemed to be the best price and had free USPS shipping - www.yamahapart.com $86.21

A few places showed the part as unavailable and some vendors don't have 2013 parts in their system yet.

 

[snakebitten]

Ordering a left switch cluster to have a Euro hazard & flash to pass

On the way EricV!

Thanks for looking it all up.
I'll be the guinea pig and see if this is a nice solution for hazards.
I plan on wiring it for hazards without the key on.

Pigtail on FJR

Pigtail on S10