open ended wrench on fork caps?

kaalsb

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Should I risk cracking the aluminum fork caps loose with an open end wrench, or do I run the chance of chewing up the head of the alum caps without using a 6 point socket on them? I only have shallow 24mm sockets..
 

scott123007

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I wouldn't. Ideally, you should use sockets made just for fork caps removal, which have hard plastic inserts. Otherwise, a piece of Visqueen between socket and the fork cap should keep marring at bay.
 

magic

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Should I risk cracking the aluminum fork caps loose with an open end wrench, or do I run the chance of chewing up the head of the alum caps without using a 6 point socket on them? I only have shallow 24mm sockets..
You stand a chance of rounding off the fork caps with the open end wrench. Do you have a 15/16" socket or box end wrench? A 6 point would be ideal. Fits perfectly. Your shallow socket might work if you turn in the preload adjuster.
 

jrusell

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Use a box end wrench or a socket, both will work fine. If you are having an issue with the socket reaching the cap it is because you don't have much preload on the forks and it is bottoming out on the rebound adjuster/preload adjuster. Turn your preload adjuster all the way in (clockwise) so the socket will reach, and make sure to loosen the top triple clamp bolt first. This will release a bit of clamping force on the threads and make loosening the cap easier.
 

Cycledude

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On my previous 2013 I used a 6 point socket but it left serious marks.
some folks say if you put paper towel on the nut first and sort of wedge the socket on tight you won’t leave marks, kinda makes sense but I didn’t learn about that until after the damage was done.
Incase I ever need to remove the caps again I bought a special Polyamides with fiber wrench that’s supposed to allow removing aluminum fork caps without damage.
Here is a link to the $8.00 tool
https://www.partsnmore.com/cart/index.php?main_page=shopping_cart&zenid=3nnpj6hhgbjqjmlvat9d5lk7i6
 
Last edited:

EricV

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Use a box end wrench or a socket, both will work fine. If you are having an issue with the socket reaching the cap it is because you don't have much preload on the forks and it is bottoming out on the rebound adjuster/preload adjuster. Turn your preload adjuster all the way in (clockwise) so the socket will reach, and make sure to loosen the top triple clamp bolt first. This will release a bit of clamping force on the threads and make loosening the cap easier.
+100 You'll just fight it if you don't loosen the top pinch bolts!
 

RCinNC

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I bought a socket for mine that has no chamfer on the face; it's ground perfectly flat. If you get one like that, more of the inner gripping surface of the socket is actually on the flats of the fork cap nut. Less risk to the nut that way.
 

kaalsb

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I bought a socket for mine that has no chamfer on the face; it's ground perfectly flat. If you get one like that, more of the inner gripping surface of the socket is actually on the flats of the fork cap nut. Less risk to the nut that way.
All of mine have the chamfer on them. I considered taking one of them to the belt sander when doing transfer case/ trans/ differential oil changes on my Toyota. Very short head on the drain bolts, much like the fork caps.
 

RCinNC

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I would have done the same thing, though I'd have had to use a file (don't have a belt sander). Fortunately I found a "no chamfer" one on line, which saved me a lot of frustration.
 
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