oil change-Lite

Nikolajsen

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hogmolly said:
If you use coolant temp you'll be too full (at least mine was).
Depends on what coolant temp you use.
I'm very well aware the the manual says oli temp....but that can't be read anywhere...
 

hogmolly

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Nikolajsen said:
Depends on what coolant temp you use.
I'm very well aware the the manual says oli temp....but that can't be read anywhere...
Which is why it says "10 minutes". That can be measured.
 

Nikolajsen

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There you got a point. :)
But, If I let mine run for 10 min. the sight glass wil be completly full.
(even if it is in idling, and I would never let it idle for 10 min.)
 

hogmolly

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I posted the notes to show how tricky it can be. The bike traps oil (pockets in the castings?). This means if you ride to warm it up, then get off you'll likely use the side stand. Now when you put the bike on the center stand, some trapped oil will go to the sump. All you need to do is start the bike for 30s or so before shutting off and taking your reading.

So I've been able to get consistent reading doing the following

1) Verify you see some/any oil in sight glass
2) Warm up the oil (10 mins idle or short ride). A simple test to see the oil is hot is to touch oil filter. You can't hold 140F.
3) Put bike on center stand and idle it for 30s or so (only necessary if you went for a ride)
4) Take reading

Too much oil in the sump can/will cause clutch drag. This is when you have too much viscous coupling on the clutch plates and shifts become notchy. Same thing happens in harleys when the primary is too full.
 

Marty

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Unless otherwise specified, all torque specs are for clean dry fasteners. There is no way that you are going to clean the oil off of an oil pan hole during an oil change. Following torque specs, on an oil pan drain plug will result in greater than intended pull on the threads. All that is needed is a little bump past finger tight.
 

Grumpy

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I also like to make sure the bike is dead level. I have an area on my drive that I flat, but I still put a small spirit level on the filler cap to make sure, before warming it up and checking the sight glass.
Also, has anyone needed to top up the oil between changes? I'm talking about road touring rather than heavy off road use.
 

squarebore

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Wow, you guys are so serious about your oil changes. It's a dry sump. Close enough is good enough. There is a big difference between too much and too little. Also never had a sump plug come undone. Finger tight plus a bit. There is no pressure on this plug.

Ride more...yadda, yadda, yadda.

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Boris

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I also like to make sure the bike is dead level. I have an area on my drive that I flat, but I still put a small spirit level on the filler cap to make sure, before warming it up and checking the sight glass.
Also, has anyone needed to top up the oil between changes? I'm talking about road touring rather than heavy off road use.
I changed my oil and filter immediately prior to a 5039 mile European trip last summer, a proper mix of all on road riding, mountain passes, motorway and everything in between, and I do get a move on, not a plodding along type rider. Although I didn't need to top up, my bike did use a little oil, but was still showing comfortably above the lower sight glass line when I returned home.
 

SHUMBA

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I changed my oil and filter immediately prior to a 5039 mile European trip last summer, a proper mix of all on road riding, mountain passes, motorway and everything in between, and I do get a move on, not a plodding along type rider. Although I didn't need to top up, my bike did use a little oil, but was still showing comfortably above the lower sight glass line when I returned home.
So what intervals do you change yoyr oil and filter?
SHUMBA

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SHUMBA

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I posted the notes to show how tricky it can be. The bike traps oil (pockets in the castings?). This means if you ride to warm it up, then get off you'll likely use the side stand. Now when you put the bike on the center stand, some trapped oil will go to the sump. All you need to do is start the bike for 30s or so before shutting off and taking your reading.

So I've been able to get consistent reading doing the following

1) Verify you see some/any oil in sight glass
2) Warm up the oil (10 mins idle or short ride). A simple test to see the oil is hot is to touch oil filter. You can't hold 140F.
3) Put bike on center stand and idle it for 30s or so (only necessary if you went for a ride)
4) Take reading

Too much oil in the sump can/will cause clutch drag. This is when you have too much viscous coupling on the clutch plates and shifts become notchy. Same thing happens in harleys when the primary is too full.
Okay, thanks for that little tip. My sight glass is completely full. What intervals do you change your oil and filter at??
SHUMBA

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SHUMBA

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All in all, a very nice post, but the above is not quite correct. There is a very specific method for using the sight glass because of the dry sump design. First tip to remember is that w/o running the engine, the sight glass is useless. It's not going to be accurate if you just fire it up briefly and let it sit a bit, nor will it be accurate if you go for a nice ride and get it hotter than specified. For these reasons, as the OP stated, just use the correct amount of oil and don't stress about the sight glass. It's a good comparative tool, not an absolute measurement device.

From my '12 owner's manual, page 7-12:


The important part of the procedure is to understand that the oil level window is only accurate when the oil is very close to that specified 140F temp. Oil viscosity changes a lot with temp and this will cause different readings if it's hotter or colder. If you start with the correct volume, you won't be off enough to worry about. If the low oil volume/level, (not pressure), light comes on, just add a bit more. Note that the low oil volume light will tend to come on if you take off with a cold engine and/or the oil is dirty, after riding a short distance, but if you stop, turn the bike off, then re-start, it will often go away and not come on again. Just a quirk of a dry sump design and the Yamaha low oil level sensor.
Thanks EricV, this all makes sense.
Here is what I need to know. I ride a lot. No off roading as Im I'm just too old. I believe the Yammy Yammy manual recommends oil ans filter changes at every 6,000 km.
Is this really necessary if the bike is ridden gently on the highwats mostly? I'm using Motul semi synthetic 10 w 40.
Thanks for your input.
SHUMBA

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Boris

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So what intervals do you change yoyr oil and filter?
SHUMBA

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I usually change my oil between 5-6k miles, however I will always start a trip (likely to be in excess of 2k miles) with fresh oil, if the current oil is older than 1500 miles. Filter gets changed at every oil change.

I use semi synthetic yamalube and a genuine filter.
 
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Boris

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Thanks EricV, this all makes sense.
Here is what I need to know. I ride a lot. No off roading as Im I'm just too old. I believe the Yammy Yammy manual recommends oil ans filter changes at every 6,000 km.
Is this really necessary if the bike is ridden gently on the highwats mostly? I'm using Motul semi synthetic 10 w 40.
Thanks for your input.
SHUMBA

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The UK manual suggests oil changes every 6k miles (not KMs). The filter every other oil change.
 

SHUMBA

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I usually change my oil between 5-6k miles, however I will always start a trip (likely to be in excess of 2k miles) with fresh oil, if the current oil is older than 1500 miles. Filter gets changed at every oil change.
Thanks for your reply Boris. My bike is now beyond warranty, so I can do whatever I choose.
Synthetic oils are certainly heartier than oils of days gone by. Engines are of much tighter tolances as well.
I am certain it is safe to change at longer intervals than 6,000 km. Heck, thats weel short of only 4,000 miles.
I'm thinking maybe 8,000 km or 5,000 miles. What say you?
SHUMBA

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Boris

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Thanks for your reply Boris. My bike is now beyond warranty, so I can do whatever I choose.
Synthetic oils are certainly heartier than oils of days gone by. Engines are of much tighter tolances as well.
I am certain it is safe to change at longer intervals than 6,000 km. Heck, thats weel short of only 4,000 miles.
I'm thinking maybe 8,000 km or 5,000 miles. What say you?
SHUMBA

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The book recommends 10000kms for oil changes. I have no issues whatsoever taking it to that or a bit over if a change wasn’t possible.
 
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