oil change-Lite

[rider33]

when I went looking for an oil change thread I noticed the main one has something like 400 replies, 'no way I'm going to wade thru all of that. So, since I just changed the oil for the first time, I thought I'd jot down some basics in case it is of any help. This by the way is one of the most straight forward bikes to change the oil on I've had it quite a while, pretty much everything is right there where you can get at it.

You will need:
-3.6 quarts of oil (your choice, this is not an oil thread)
-a filter
-a drain pan
-a funnel

Tools used:
-torq wrench
-12mm socket (for drain bolts)
-oil filter wrench
-10mm socket and 4mm hex key (for removing the stock bash plate, if you still have one)

Specs:
-drain bolts torq to 14 ft pds
-filter torq to 12 ft. pds

Tips:
-if you have a bashplate take it off before you start. It likely will get in the way of the filter & removing it on a cold engine is easier than on a hot one
-remember, the bike has TWO drain plugs, be sure to get them both
-unless you like fishing drain plug bolts out of the drain pan, you might want to think about opening the filler cap AFTER you've removed the drain plugs, that will slow down the oil flow & give you a fighting chance
-speaking of which, the crush washers are copper not silver so if they fall into the oil they are going to be hard to spot
-if you have an engine guard you likely want to get an articulaed funnel as the filler spout points directly at the guard area
-site glasses are nice but start with the right amount of oil to begin with and then use it a a check once you've given the oil plenty of time
to settle back down to the glass (5-10 min maybe).

'Pretty simple really tho being prepared helps. Shop towels & nitrel gloves are your friend by the way in all things oil....

 

[AVGeek]

Nicely done rider33! I've made this topic a sticky, for ease in finding it...

 

[AspentureRider]

We have a lite to tell us when to change the oil??????
::015::
I guess mine has never needed it, then.... ::010::

 

[EricV]

-site glasses are nice but start with the right amount of oil to begin with and then use it a a check once you've given the oil plenty of time
to settle back down to the glass (5-10 min maybe).

All in all, a very nice post, but the above is not quite correct. There is a very specific method for using the sight glass because of the dry sump design. First tip to remember is that w/o running the engine, the sight glass is useless. It's not going to be accurate if you just fire it up briefly and let it sit a bit, nor will it be accurate if you go for a nice ride and get it hotter than specified. For these reasons, as the OP stated, just use the correct amount of oil and don't stress about the sight glass. It's a good comparative tool, not an absolute measurement device.

From my '12 owner's manual, page 7-12:

1. Place the vehicle on the center stand. A slight tilt to the side can result in a false reading.

2. Start the engine and warm it up for ten minutes until the engine oil has reached 60º C ( 140º F ), and then turn the engine off.

3. Wait a few minutes until the oil settles, and check the oil level through the engine oil level check window located at the bottom-right side of the crankcase.

TIP____________________________________________________
The engine oil should be between the minimum and maximum level marks.
____________________________________________________________

4. If the engine oil is below the minimum level mark, add sufficient oil of the recommended type to raise it to the correct level.

The important part of the procedure is to understand that the oil level window is only accurate when the oil is very close to that specified 140F temp. Oil viscosity changes a lot with temp and this will cause different readings if it's hotter or colder. If you start with the correct volume, you won't be off enough to worry about. If the low oil volume/level, (not pressure), light comes on, just add a bit more. Note that the low oil volume light will tend to come on if you take off with a cold engine and/or the oil is dirty, after riding a short distance, but if you stop, turn the bike off, then re-start, it will often go away and not come on again. Just a quirk of a dry sump design and the Yamaha low oil level sensor.

 

[silvergoose]

I may asking the question at the wrong site, if so please, move it.

Question: I am very serious about buying a Tenere, but the idea of a sight glass has now put a different bend on the purchase. I have seen oil level glass, broken, cracked and lost. Has anyone had a problem with the glass? Can the glass be replaced on the road? Am I being overly concerned?

Thanks

 

[EricV]

I may asking the question at the wrong site, if so please, move it.

Question: I am very serious about buying a Tenere, but the idea of a sight glass has now put a different bend on the purchase. I have seen oil level glass, broken, cracked and lost. Has anyone had a problem with the glass? Can the glass be replaced on the road? Am I being overly concerned?

Thanks

It is in a protected location and there have been no reports of damaged sight glass. Yes, you're being overly concerned, for the Super Tenere. Other bikes, yes, some have a known issue about the sight glass, but not the Super Tenere.

 

[silvergoose]

Thanks for the information, I can still move forward with the purchase.

 

[rider33]

personal aside: I have 4 bikes at the moment, 2 with sight glasses, 2 with dipsticks. The sight glass bikes get their oil checked a lot more often than the dip stick bikes, it's just that much easier & quicker to do. Also, when the oil is inky black in the sight glass, it's pretty hard to miss that it could do with a change, 'just saying.

 

[2daMax]

It is a worthy mention that the plastic filler cap can brittle up and crack if it is dropped or during opening. Happened to a friend when he was attempting to fill oil as a top up. The cover broke as he was twisting it. Good to have a spare cap or get one of those after markets Aluminum machined ones. M27x3.0 is the size. Shares the same with R1 according to online sites that sells these things.

 

[Pterodactyl]

Get a dedicated oil drain pan and then put a 1/4 - 1/2 inch metal screen over the top; like bug screen only with larger holes. I affixed mine with screws and washers. You'll never have to play hide and seek with a drain plug or crush washer again.

 

[ace50]

Get a dedicated oil drain pan and then put a 1/4 - 1/2 inch metal screen over the top; like bug screen only with larger holes. I affixed mine with screws and washers. You'll never have to play hide and seek with a drain plug or crush washer again.

::008:: ::008::

 

[raynchk]

All in all, a very nice post, but the above is not quite correct. There is a very specific method for using the sight glass because of the dry sump design. First tip to remember is that w/o running the engine, the sight glass is useless. It's not going to be accurate if you just fire it up briefly and let it sit a bit, nor will it be accurate if you go for a nice ride and get it hotter than specified. For these reasons, as the OP stated, just use the correct amount of oil and don't stress about the sight glass. It's a good comparative tool, not an absolute measurement device.

From my '12 owner's manual, page 7-12:
The important part of the procedure is to understand that the oil level window is only accurate when the oil is very close to that specified 140F temp. Oil viscosity changes a lot with temp and this will cause different readings if it's hotter or colder. If you start with the correct volume, you won't be off enough to worry about. If the low oil volume/level, (not pressure), light comes on, just add a bit more. Note that the low oil volume light will tend to come on if you take off with a cold engine and/or the oil is dirty, after riding a short distance, but if you stop, turn the bike off, then re-start, it will often go away and not come on again. Just a quirk of a dry sump design and the Yamaha low oil level sensor.

Damn! Just checked mine today and didn't see any oil in the sight glass. Added a little..maybe 3 oz and saw it in the glass. Forgot or didn't know about running the engine and heating the oil to 140.. Went for a 30 mile ride. Will check it tomorrow the right way and remove any overfill if necessary.

 

[Nikolajsen]

Pretty bad, that the manual have a specified oil temperature when looking at oil level....because you can't see the oil temperature

 

[EricV]

Pretty bad, that the manual have a specified oil temperature when looking at oil level....because you can't see the oil temperature

The specified temperature is actually the coolant temp, since that is something you can see on the instrument panel.

 

[HeliMark]

Damn! Just checked mine today and didn't see any oil in the sight glass. Added a little..maybe 3 oz and saw it in the glass. Forgot or didn't know about running the engine and heating the oil to 140.. Went for a 30 mile ride. Will check it tomorrow the right way and remove any overfill if necessary.

I wouldn't worry about it. If for some reason you are 3 oz over, the bike will not care. Doing this will get you into the "chasing the oil" routine that many have been guilty of with this bike (BTDT).

As long as my bike has something showing cold, it is usually good when checked properly.

Mark

 

[Nikolajsen]

The specified temperature is actually the coolant temp, since that is something you can see on the instrument panel.

No, in my manual it says oil temp.

 

[Checkswrecks]

I think we have confusion from translations with speakers of three languages and both of you are correct. As Nikolajsen says, the text says 140 degrees, but there is not a way to tell oil temp. However, as EricV wrote, the only available indication of temp is for coolant, which makes the text factually incorrect, but it is consistent with English using a lot of implied meaning.


From a common sense point, by the time the coolant is 140, the oil already got there.

 

[raynchk]

Damn! Just checked mine today and didn't see any oil in the sight glass. Added a little..maybe 3 oz and saw it in the glass. Forgot or didn't know about running the engine and heating the oil to 140.. Went for a 30 mile ride. Will check it tomorrow the right way and remove any overfill if necessary.

Went out and checked oil this morning according to manual and all was fine. Oil at high indicator line, but within parameters. God, I hate this obsessive/compulsive problem! ::021::

 

[Sierra1]

I put in the specified amount of oil after a change. And, every so often, I check the sight glass after a ride. I have NEVER had to add oil to ANY* of my bikes. I've never even been able to visually tell if the level dropped at all.



*The Beemer required oil several times a week.

 

[hogmolly]

If you use coolant temp you'll be too full (at least mine was).

My manual says idle 10 mins for an OIL temp of 60C or 140F. I have a good fluke IR gun and I watched my oil temp vs. my coolant temp. When my coolant was 140F, my oil was only 90F (ambient was 82). When I went the full 10 mins, my fans had already kicked on/off once and my oil was 133F.

Based on coolant temp, you can get almost 4 Qtrs into the bike. Based on oil temp you can only get the recommended 3.6 Qts into the bike. Based on this I think the manual is actually consistent.

The whole reason I went this BS is that I noticed clutch drag which can happen when you're too full of oil.....

So stick with 3.6 Qtrs or let the bike idle for 10 mins and get good and warm before using the sight glass.

Note1: I was shooting my oil filter (a good black body full of oil) with my IR gun.
Note2: If you drain on the center stand, putting the bike on the side stand will drain out additional oil.
Note3: If you drain on the side stand, putting the bike on the center stand will drain out additional oil.