OAT coolant

MattR

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I use OAT coolant in my Zx14r and it seems to run about 5c cooler. OAT also has a life of 6 years (not that I leave it in that long)

Organic Acid Technology

Does anyone use it in their s10? I’d like to if it’s ok. Can’t think why it wouldn’t be.


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Jlq1969

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Argentina
I use OAT coolant in my Zx14r and it seems to run about 5c cooler. OAT also has a life of 6 years (not that I leave it in that long)

Organic Acid Technology

Does anyone use it in their s10? I’d like to if it’s ok. Can’t think why it wouldn’t be.


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The fact that it is organic does not mean that it does not degrade over time. Two types of degradation: 1) from acids (organic or inorganic), which protect you from corrosion, 2) from glycols, which protect you from boiling / freezing. If the label says "refrigerant" does not mean that it will work "colder", it means that in the correct proportion, the liquid will boil above 100 C. What manufacturers recommend is to regularly measure the levels of acid / glycols in the liquid, and here is where there is a difference between organic and inorganic products and it is that organic manufacturers also offer you in a small container the additives to replace them depending on the samples, without the need to change all the cooling liquid. Generally that small container only with acids and glycoles, you don't find it anywhere. Another problem that usually exists, is that each manufacturer uses different types of organic acids, and the test strips are different for each manufacturer, so if you measure the level of acid and who measures it, it does not have the test strips of the brand of liquid, probably wrong measurements. In conclusion, any refrigerant / antifreeze, of recognized brand, organic / inorganic, in the correct proportion and being the pressurized circuit, are doing well. You just have to change it regularly: inorganic (1-2 years), organic (2-3years). And as I said before, that different factories use different acids, if you have to refill, it should always be done with the same product (which are the same color, does not mean that it is the same). If it is filled with another brand, which contains other acids, the anticorrosive properties are diluted, not the refrigerants / antifreeze
And all the more important to achieve 100% effectiveness of the anticorrosive properties is the "water" you use for the mixture (completely demineralized / deionized). If you use a premixed product, "water is supposed to be correct"
salts, not only attack iron, wreak havoc on aluminum as well. Only in aluminum, you don't notice it in the water, you see it when you disassemble the engine
6 years, it is likely to be so, but you should regularly measure acid / glycol levels, or change it before so as not to risk
 
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MattR

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Wow! You Sir, have coolant skills! Thanks!
I’m not bothered about testing it, I work on the basis that if I change it before it has reached it’s working lifetime, it should always be in spec.
I shall thoroughly flush out the old coolant and refill with the new premixed stuff and then change it every 3 years.



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jrusell

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Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
I use one of the asian formula coolants out there. Most are HOAT I believe.
If it works in my Japanese aluminum engine truck, I figure it is fine for the bike.

Just make sure to drain well and replace any in the overflow bottle as well.
 

Sierra1

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My Jeep takes a HOAT or OAT coolant; each has it's own part number. Jeep is VERY adamant to use the correct one. Once again, I defer to the Yamaha manual for which coolant to use. It maybe a HOAT/OUT coolant. If it's not....I'm not using it. Just MY opinion.
 

WJBertrand

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I just use cheap Prestone 50/50 “everything/universal” coolant I can get anywhere in all my cars and bikes, including the Super Ténéré. Every vehicle I own goes 100,000-200,000 miles, though my Ténéré is only at 70K so far. Never any cooling system issues.


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taskmaster86

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South Eastern, CT
I use Peak Long Life Universal coolant in everything including my Super Tenere. It is compatible with all types of fluids, all cooling systems, lasts a minimum of 5 years and is cheap and easy to find. I have never had any issues and see no reason to switch to something else.
 
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RonH

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ASTM D3306 is what you are looking for, and most antifreeze says on the jug what specs it is. The D3306 is almost any antifreeze at Walmart ect. You can buy Valvoline formula at Walmart made for Asian vehicals, Honda ect. It comes blue and matches the original blue Yamaha coolant, or you can buy Asian formula Toyota, but it comes red, but still matches the yamaha D3306, or buy standard green Zerex, Peak, or the like in green. Look on the jug for D3306. If it says that, you are good, if not best bet don't take the chance for the benefit of longer life.
 

MattR

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We don’t have Walmart in the UK or Peak. The one I’ve been using is Silkolene Mag Cool. Not sure what other OAT bike coolants there are in the UK. There are several car versions but I can’t be sure they are the same.


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WJBertrand

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One interesting note I forgot to mention is that after changing the Yamaha OEM coolant to the Prestone 50/50 universal stuff, the small droplet of ever present coolant at the end of the water pump drain tube disappeared. Better additives for the seals maybe?
 

WJBertrand

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Maybe you tightened it up a bit more?


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Tightened up the drain hose more??? I never even touched it and would have no idea if or how it could be tightened? Maybe you're confusing that with the drain bolt which is nowhere near the drain hose?
 

WJBertrand

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Do you mean the reservoir overflow hose?


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No, there's a "tell tale" drain hose coming from behind the water pump. Depending on which side of the seal is bad it'll leak coolant or oil. Mine always showed a drop of coolant along with some crusty dried residue when the OEM coolant was in there. Never enough to fall to the floor though. That stopped after I replaced the OEM coolant with Prestone 50/50 universal coolant.
 
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RonH

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Prestone 50/50 should be identical to original coolant except for color which is probably green on Prestone and blue on original Yamaha. Manufacturers play games by adding color to antifreeze, one manufacturer puts in red, another one pink, some blue, some orange. They do this to discourage going to Prestone standard green majority of the time. I used to get too worked up finding correct antifreeze, but on the Tenere there is option to pretty much use any. Some new cars ect that spec special coolant, that is another story. Best off stay with recommended, and that means go to the dealer for $35.00 a gallon. No need to go to extreme worry on the Yamaha.
 

MattR

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I’m going to be using so much on both my bikes and the car I might as well just buy a firkin of it.


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Sierra1

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"Using" as in routine flush/replace? Or, refilling because the level drops? If it's the former, ok. If it's the latter, you have a leak, or two. I've never used a lot of anti-freeze in any of my vehicles.
 
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ballisticexchris

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I will say when doing a drain and fill it is much easier to just use a turkey baster with a hose to suck out the coolant from the reservoir. That little bottle is a booger to remove. I was actually surprised how cheap the pre diluted Yamaha OEM stuff was. So i just used it.

I though about doing a full Evans waterless swap and ditching the fan. But I don't see myself ever getting into extreme riding on this bike.
 
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