No start after sitting over a year

HeliMark

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Cool, even on US bikes? I have a scanner so that would be a good place to start.


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Yes, but you have to buy the cable, and from what I understand, a standard obd reader will not read it. I think several have tried, and gave up.

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SmokinRZ

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Yes, but you have to buy the cable, and from what I understand, a standard obd reader will not read it. I think several have tried, and gave up.

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That’s what I thought. With the broken instrument diagnostics I can now see why the previous owner gave up.
 

eemsreno

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On your way to everywhere, , Iowa
. I think the diagnostics under the seat is for ABS right? No way to run OBD 2?
This is correct. You can not hook up a generation 1 bike to external engine diagnostics.
Gen. 2 bikes will hook up with a Yamaha program for engine diagnostics. But still have it in the dash as well.
 
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RonH

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Obd2 scanners will not work on USA Super Teneres. I bought the cable and have two good scanners. You will get the error the motorcycle does not match any OBD2 protocol. In Europe it seems some have used a scanner, but to my knowledge nobody in USA has ever got one to connect. If anyone does, please post what works.
 

SmokinRZ

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I just ran a compression check and it was 142 psi left cylinder and 145 psi right cylinder. I'm baffled, the service manual has a range of 83.9 108.1 PSI. I used MAC compression tester that I have owned an used for years and trust.
 

SmokinRZ

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The new spark plugs had some black carbon on them. The throttle butterflies would only slightly open under full throttle so I put a rag in there to keep it open, switching sides when moving to the other cylinder.
 

Don in Lodi

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It's possible the 89-108 is not psi. It works out close to being perfect in Newtons. Anyway, 140 some-odd is perfect. The compression release didn't come into play I guess. The fly by wire throttles will not open fully without the engine running. Be careful about sticking your fingers in there, they can close pretty forcefully.
 

SmokinRZ

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Ok, thanks, I just looked again and it is PSI but not LBS. That was what I was thinking, at 140 psi this is not a mechanical issues. My KLR had a broken spring on the auto decompression system. I just saw the same type spring in the parts diagram. I wonder if the same thing has happened and is holding back the starters ability to spin the motor fast enough. I guess I will button it back up and look for some gauges to borrower since I have the one button malfunction that wont allow me to check codes.
 

stutrump

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SmokinRZ. For what it's worth I'm pretty sure it will fire up if you try it on jump cables from a car/van. If it doesn't at first then try it without the EFI fuse a couole of times and then try again with the EFI fuse. I reckon it will go.
If you really want to check for codes why not temporarily swap your panel with your buddies 2013?
Good luck
 

SmokinRZ

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I tried jumper cables and while it spun a little faster it still seems slow and uneven, is that from the 270 degree crank? Tried twice wide open for about 30 seconds each. It pops at the exhaust header, like a intake backfire but at the exhaust header, what you would expect the header flange was loose. I checked and it isn't. I tried to push start it on the hill I live on and when I popped it in second I would hop on the seat and the tire would just skid from too much compression. Two tries and I was pooped from pushing I back up the hill.

I'm thinking its time to check the valves and timing.
 

Don in Lodi

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An FYI, this is a slow lumpy starting motor. That part 'sounds normal'. I just looked it up and 84-108 Pounds / Square Inch is what it should be. You are in fact reading running compression, not cranking. I'd bet the compression release has broke. If valve timing was off you should have seen a drop in compression. Running full compression on start will get you all kinds of pre ignition problems, way to much compression way to early in the stroke, popping through the intake. Yep, get that valve cover off. Focus on the compression release. I don't know if it's a serviceable part or if you're going to need to source an exhaust cam. Lots of parts shown for the exhaust cam, two pins, two interlocked shafts, the cam itself. Sheesh. Let us know.
 
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Don in Lodi

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Jaxon, have you seen the 84-108psi on compression tests? I know what a compression release should do, I've just never seen the numbers.
 

doc187

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My understanding from working on trucks is it's best to just compare compression between the cylinders rather than be too concerned with the actual number. That is unless you aren't getting much compression at all in either cylinder, which isn't what you've got. If then numbers are close move on to the next thing.
 

stutrump

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What I can tell you about that cable (because I just did it) is that if one puts a jumper wire between the black and blue wires/connectors, the ABS pump can then be purged, which is kind of essential when bleeding the brakes.
I THINK it is possible to run diagnostics from that cable too but I may be wrong...others on here will know about that
 

pilleway

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Hi guys. I have seen that there is many good proposals to solve the problem, in my humble oppinion I will try the very basic conditions! What I mean with is; for an internal combustion engine to run is needed; compression, spark and fuel, I will put my initial effort in assuring the 3 are covered (compression seams to be OK, and I might think that the engine is synchronized, mechanically ok), what about Spark and fuel in the chambers. then for sure electronics could be an issue. In my experience with EFI systems grounds can be an issue as well as a boken wires, but
burn engine controlers unless someone did something to them. Hope my recomendations can be of any help.
 
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