"New" "16 Super Ten

SigepKat

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Mico, Tx
Hey y'all, I've just brought my S10 home (well, a few weeks and 400 miles ago)...The bike has 4k miles on it, so I'm getting ready to do my first oil change. Anything else I should look at/refresh while I'm at it?

CM
 

EricV

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Good call! I didn't even think of that.

I assume it'll take the same oil as the FJR?

CM
No, you don't need the Norwegian Monkey Jizz for the Super Ten. Valvoline Synpower does fine.

Check the spokes. Not as much of an issue on the Gen II bikes, but worth checking.
 

EricV

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How would I check the spokes? That's not something I've had to do before.

CM
The torque spec for the spoke nipples is 6Nm/4.3 ft/lbs/52 in/lbs. You can use a 5mm allen socket on the nipple at the hub and short extension if you have a torque wrench that goes that low. I prefer to check alternating spokes on one side, then the opposite side of the wheel, then return to the first side and check the remaining ones there, then the second side to finish up.

Because the spoke nipples angle two different directions on each side of the wheel, this makes it easy to alternate. Use the valve stem as a reference point, then work your way around.

The basic rough test is to use a screwdriver handle to tap the spoke and see if it has a sharp 'ping' sound or a flat pong tone. If the tone is flat, the spoke is loose and needs to be tightened. You can move it a 1/4 turn at a time with an allen wrench and try again. This is not an accurate method, but some swear by it. It will at least find loose spokes. It will not give you an accurate indication of how tight they are.

Many people with wire spoke wheels choose to place zip ties loosely at the cross over points on the spokes. This is so if a nipple comes loose and falls out, which will happen on our spoke design, then the spoke can't flop around loose and damage both the spoke and wheel or swing arm/fork leg.

It has been more common to find loose spokes on the rear wheel for the Super Tenere. This issue was very common on new 1st Gen bikes, but not nearly so much on 2nd Gen bikes, (2014-on).

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HeliMark

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On the final drive, the book calls for SAE 80 gear oil, but I have used Mobil 1 75-90W. Your choice of poison, I just like synthetic.

Also, most important, just add the 3.6 quarts of oil, and be done with it. The bike has a dry sump system, and it is very easy to chase the oil level, and not check the level the proper way. A simple search on this site, and you can read some of the fun (BTDT).
 

U.P.rider

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On the final drive, the book calls for SAE 80 gear oil, but I have used Mobil 1 75-90W. Your choice of poison, I just like synthetic.

Also, most important, just add the 3.6 quarts of oil, and be done with it. The bike has a dry sump system, and it is very easy to chase the oil level, and not check the level the proper way. A simple search on this site, and you can read some of the fun (BTDT).
The Mobil 1 75-90w is what I use on my '92 Vmax and not had any issues with the final drive over the years. I have broken a couple drive shafts on the Vmax but that was due to some hooliganism (abuse?) on my behalf. Most early Vmax owners keep a drive shaft or two around for just such issues. I'm sure the S10 will not see that type of abuse in it's life, at least from me, I will only abuse my Vmax in that manner.
 

HeliMark

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But why ? At 4K miles.
The first several thousand miles, you do get a fair amount of junk from the final drive, and it is nice to flush it. Nothing worrisome, but for .2 qt of oil, it is easy and cheap. Just out of habit, I change mine every oil change, and the bottle lasts 5 or 6 oil changes. It only take another 5 minutes or so, and since it has been treating me well, why not give a little more love back.

The Mobil 1 75-90w is what I use on my '92 Vmax and not had any issues with the final drive over the years. I have broken a couple drive shafts on the Vmax but that was due to some hooliganism (abuse?) on my behalf. Most early Vmax owners keep a drive shaft or two around for just such issues. I'm sure the S10 will not see that type of abuse in it's life, at least from me, I will only abuse my Vmax in that manner.
I am not sure I have ever heard of anyone have a drive shaft failure on the Tenere, and there are some pretty nutty riders out there on this bike. Some of the riders treat it like it is a 300 lb dirt bike (awesome riding skills).
 

Ali Sleiman

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The first several thousand miles, you do get a fair amount of junk from the final drive, and it is nice to flush it. Nothing worrisome, but for .2 qt of oil, it is easy and cheap. Just out of habit, I change mine every oil change, and the bottle lasts 5 or 6 oil changes. It only take another 5 minutes or so, and since it has been treating me well, why not give a little more love back.



I am not sure I have ever heard of anyone have a drive shaft failure on the Tenere, and there are some pretty nutty riders out there on this bike. Some of the riders treat it like it is a 300 lb dirt bike (awesome riding skills).
I agree. Thank you for the explanation.
 

VRODE

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How would I check the spokes? That's not something I've had to do before.

CM
I checked mine at 500 miles. About 3 were loose in the rear wheel (not rattle-y loose, just not tight to spec), 2 in front. Checked them at 1000 miles...1 was not up to spec in the rear. At 1500 miles, all were ok. Now I check them every oil change. No problems so far (16K).
 
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