Master cylinder seal kits

Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Messages
66
Location
Sunshine coast. Qld. Australia
Anyone know if this kit would work for my 2010 gen1 S10?
Cant find one specific to 2010 model. I would have thought the MC is the same.
Any other better kits i should look at?

Cheers.
Dave.


Sent from my LG-H930 using Tapatalk
 

Cycledude

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2016
Messages
3,998
Location
Rib lake wi
In my experience All Balls usually makes excellent stuff at reasonable prices but I’ve never actually used any of their master cylinder rebuilding parts.
 

WJBertrand

Ventura Highway
Joined
Jun 20, 2015
Messages
4,516
Location
Ventura, CA
Almost $60! How much would the genuine Yamaha parts cost? I think all you’d need would be the crush washers and rubber bits.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

RCinNC

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2014
Messages
2,816
Location
North Carolina
The easiest way to tell if a part from a different model year will fit your bike is to find an online retailer that sells OEM parts and just compare part numbers between the model year that you own and the model years of the parts that are available at the retailer. If you go to an online OEM parts retailer and look up the similar parts to those that are included in that rebuild kit and find that the parts between your 2010 and the parts for the 2012-2019 all share the same part numbers, then all those parts are interchangeable. If your 2010 shares the same part numbers with every other Super Tenere model year between 2012 and 2019, then the parts from that aftermarket kit should fit, even if the aftermarket kit doesn't specifically mention your 2010 model. If a seal is the same for every S10 between 2010 and 2019, and an aftermarket parts maker makes a seal to fit a 2012-2019, then it should fit your 2010.

If you don't have an OEM online retailer you can use, a Yamaha dealership should be able to provide the same information.

I don't know what OEM pricing is like in Australia; I imagine you have import fees and VAT that add a lot to the cost of vehicle parts. Here is what the OEM price (and part number) for a master cylinder rebuild kit is in the US, from Rocky Mountain ATV; $37.43. This is for a 2012; they don't carry parts for a 2010 (was a 2010 even released in the US?).

MC2.JPGMC1.JPG
 

cyclemike4

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2016
Messages
815
Location
ky
I bought the whole master cylinder ready to use from Partzilla a few months ago for 71 dollars. Working on brakes sucks. Hope you get your issues fixed soon.
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Messages
66
Location
Sunshine coast. Qld. Australia
Cheapest i can find atm is from partzilla for OEM as they on special. 20 bucks shipping, crappy exchange rate and 10% GST will bring it to about $80. So $25 more than the all balls kits, however oem includes a new piston.
Would there be any issue putting a whole new piston in an old MC assembly. Does the bore hole need anything done to it?

Im leaning towards oem to guarantee a good fit. Dont wanna create further problems for myself.


Sent from my LG-H930 using Tapatalk
 

Streethawk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2020
Messages
248
Location
San Antonio, Texas, United States
Cheapest i can find atm is from partzilla for OEM as they on special. 20 bucks shipping, crappy exchange rate and 10% GST will bring it to about $80. So $25 more than the all balls kits, however oem includes a new piston.
Would there be any issue putting a whole new piston in an old MC assembly. Does the bore hole need anything done to it?

Im leaning towards oem to guarantee a good fit. Dont wanna create further problems for myself.


Sent from my LG-H930 using Tapatalk
You should have no problem installing a new piston in a used mc (if it's the correct part for the year mc). Just clean everything out with fresh brake fluid and lubricate with fresh brake fluid during assembly (accordingly).

Additionally and fwiw, I highly suggest going with all OEM parts for brake mc rebuilds per service manual. Same for caliper rebuilding. I've used well known aftermarket kits and they unfortunately led to performance issues. I am NOT saying that this experience will be the same for anyone else (or other kits for other bikes). I just know after my experiences, I would've been better off putting the money towards the OEM parts in the first place; to save time and money. Wishing you all the best with the maintenance :)
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Messages
66
Location
Sunshine coast. Qld. Australia
You should have no problem installing a new piston in a used mc (if it's the correct part for the year mc). Just clean everything out with fresh brake fluid and lubricate with fresh brake fluid during assembly (accordingly).

Additionally and fwiw, I highly suggest going with all OEM parts for brake mc rebuilds per service manual. Same for caliper rebuilding. I've used well known aftermarket kits and they unfortunately led to performance issues. I am NOT saying that this experience will be the same for anyone else (or other kits for other bikes). I just know after my experiences, I would've been better off putting the money towards the OEM parts in the first place; to save time and money. Wishing you all the best with the maintenance :)
Might possibly be the reason for my problems as i used after market caliper kit. One thing at a time and hopefully something will improve the brakes.

Sent from my LG-H930 using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Messages
66
Location
Sunshine coast. Qld. Australia
If you don't mind me asking; what issues are you experiencing with your brakes? Or is this all just time compliance/periodic maintenance?
I had a warped rotor, so replaced it and put a set of all balls caliper seals in while i was doing it. Unfortunately i stupidly allowed the brakes to completely drain and sit dry for about a week while i got around to doing the repairs. Since then i have been unable to get firm pressure in the lever. I have bleed litres through the system and tried every method i can can find other than pressure bleeding into the MC as i dont have the gear for it. I get firm pressure in lever if i clamp the line above the calipers but as soon as they are introduced into the system it goes slack again. So its either some mystery pocket of air i can't find and cant bleed out or some issue with the caliper rebuild. Idk. Doing the MC seals as a way of eliminating that as cause because if i hold pressure on the lever over night it generally is slacker in the morning, possibley an internal MC leak. This has been going on for 2 months now. Grrrr. Just wanna get it firm enough so i can get it to a shop.

Sent from my LG-H930 using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Messages
66
Location
Sunshine coast. Qld. Australia
Also put new pads on it. So they aint bedded in yet. But my problems occur while bike is still.
Have also taken the front brake banjos off the abs unit unit and bleed it from there both from the MC and reverse from the caliper. Nil improvement.

Sent from my LG-H930 using Tapatalk
 

Streethawk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2020
Messages
248
Location
San Antonio, Texas, United States
Got it. Thanks for the details. If you haven't already, I suggest the following techniques/areas to investigate:

* BLEED PROCEDURE OPTION: With a mate if need be and starting with the left caliper first...
1) Pump front lever 10 times and HOLD it tightly until step 5.
2) "Burp" caliper & lines by gently tapping bottom caliper with rubber mallet.
3) Tickle brake lines by hand.
4) Quickly, open and close bleeder screw while keeping lever squeezed IN.
5) Release lever.
6) Examine lines for air and repeat as needed.

* RIDER AIDS: Activate ABS during bleeding (in the event there's trapped air or dirty fluid)

* RESIDUAL AIR PROCEDURE OPTION: Overnight and AFTER bleeding the system, try the following:
1) Pump front lever 10-12 times and it hold against throttle grip with a velcro strap. Lever pull-in must be tight against the grip on last squeeze. Ask a mate to assist so the velcro strap can be extra tight.
2) Remove front master cylinder cap and diaphragm and set aside. Gently lay a paper towel over top of reservoir (to keep foreign elements out).
3) Repeat actions of step 1 for rear brake BUT on last pump of pedal, keep the pedal weighed down with a weight on a rope or the like.
4) Repeat actions of step 2 for rear brake reservoir.
5) In the morning, DO NOT release pressure from lever and pedal. Repeat steps 4-6 of "BLEED PROCEDURE OPTION"
6) Examine lines for air and repeat as needed.

* HARDWARE: Check bleeder screws for thread integrity (I've had damaged threads allow air IN to the caliper!---fwiw, those were aftermarket bleeder screws)

* HARDWARE: Ensure all brake system rubber parts (and metal parts as required) have been replaced per periodic maintenance chart. Typically every four years. As we've discussed, OEM parts is my suggestion (unless upgrading brake lines to steel braided).

To protect against brake fluid spill damage, I FULLY cover the surrounding bike areas with old t-shirts and rags. Use tape, clips to hold them in place as needed. Much cheaper than new plastics ;). Hope this info is of some use. Thanks for reading either way :)
 

Streethawk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2020
Messages
248
Location
San Antonio, Texas, United States
My guess is the lines are original. I got bike second hand. 60000km now.
If you're able to, I'd definitely replace those lines. Lots of opportunity for degradation, swelling, etc., to impact performance and reliability since 2010. Things will probably be okay for the next few years but I don't like to tempt fate; especially with brakes. Lol! Here are the steel braided lines kit I plan to install on my 2016 soon.

Yamaha XTZ 1200 Super Tenere Front & Rear Brake Line Kit (spieglerusa.com)

Hope all's going well with the maintenance otherwise :)
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Messages
66
Location
Sunshine coast. Qld. Australia
If you're able to, I'd definitely replace those lines. Lots of opportunity for degradation, swelling, etc., to impact performance and reliability since 2010. Things will probably be okay for the next few years but I don't like to tempt fate; especially with brakes. Lol! Here are the steel braided lines kit I plan to install on my 2016 soon.

Yamaha XTZ 1200 Super Tenere Front & Rear Brake Line Kit (spieglerusa.com)

Hope all's going well with the maintenance otherwise :)
Thanks for the link.

Always my intention to replace them at some point. But spent enuf on bike at this point. And the tax and exchange rate currently is terrible.
Maybe next service.



Sent from my LG-H930 using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Messages
66
Location
Sunshine coast. Qld. Australia
So my MC kit from partzilla has been lost/stolen.
They say UPS picked it up on 15th. UPS says they havent picked it up yet. So someone is telling fibs.
I suspect driver has grabbed it and didnt scan it.
Hope they enjoy my MC kit.

Annoying.

Sent from my LG-H930 using Tapatalk
 
Top