Maintenence items...

cavenger

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Apr 14, 2017
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Birmingham, AL
Can someone possible tell me the maintenance items that should be checked at both 10k and 15k?

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Don in Lodi

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Oil change, rear diff fluid, tighten spokes, fill tires, add gasoline and ::26:: .
 

Juan

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cavenger said:
What about brake pads? I need to get a service manual.

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Break pads wear depend on how you ride not the milage. I changed my rear pads at around 25k Km (16k miles) and they still had some flesh. My front pad were never changed and are still fine at 33k KM (20k miles).
 

Ramseybella

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This obviously go's beyond what you seek and long winded but it's a good all around check list.

Other than the Pre-Ride Motorcycle Inspection, tire psi (Anything wedged between the treads, nails, screws any sharp objects even pointed rocks, tread splitting).
Quick look over the lights, break and turn signals and "horn".
How many of us check the horn? It's like checking if the Milk in the fridge is sour..
I don't and i don't know why? ::005::
But when you need it and it's most likely at a critical moment between heaven and earth it will be to late.. ::007::

Keep an eye on air pressure, keep it at a constant psi level if you ride more black top than off road.
This will give a bit longer life even tire wear to the tire.

I flush my clutch system every 25k (it's due), it gets abused and gets grungy fast. At least mine does.
Flush my break system every pad change.
Rear pad change on this bike is the easiest i have ever done.
Have a set ready as the rear seems to wear faster than the front even though the front's take most of the stopping pressure.
ABS works front and back simultaneously even though you don't notice it.

Air filter and plugs every valve check, even if you don't do a valve check after the first initial check.
Some will say check the air filter more often if you live in a dusty environment.
I live in New Mexico and ride everyday and 25-27k works for me.

And while you have the tank up and filter box open check that little bulb lower left of the air box, it's an oil catch so it doesn't get into the filter media.
I have a longer clear tube on mine so i can look at it once in awhile.

Also check the vacuum cap on the outer side of the right fuel injector, it gets hot and dries out causing it to crack and causes head scratching and sleepless nights on why is my bike running like shit? ::010:: Also check the rest of the rubber hoses if you can attached to the EFI.

Rear gear oil change?
That's a preference for each individual that feels you need to do it every oil change or not.
I do it every 10k after the recommended break in period when the last change comes out looking new and not silver silt mixed in it.
Oil Change?
Yamaha says every 6k i do mine at 4k synthetic 3k non synthetic, that's just me.
Crush washers every third change (for me)..
Turn the oil plugs in if they instantly resist take it out and do it again till it starts going in smoothly, you don't want to cross thread the pan or rear end bolt plugs.
Quote unquote Don't" gorilla fist the oil plugs with your wrench back into the oil pan!!! It will lead to bad things, cracked oil pan.
Same with the rear pumpkin fluid bolts.
Easy slight snug tug with a box end and you are good, use torque spec's and torque wrench if you work for NASA.

And last but not least, the shift pedal arm pivot...
Every once in awhile (every other oil change for me) take it apart clean the old grease off all the parts and inside the pivot housing and re lube it.
Keep the parts in order for reverse assembly.
I can't think of anything other than keep an eye on the spokes once in awhile look them over.
And Ride!! ::26::
 

cavenger

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Joined
Apr 14, 2017
Messages
161
Location
Birmingham, AL
Ramseybella said:
This obviously go's beyond what you seek and long winded but it's a good all around check list.

Other than the Pre-Ride Motorcycle Inspection, tire psi (Anything wedged between the treads, nails, screws any sharp objects even pointed rocks, tread splitting).
Quick look over the lights, break and turn signals and "horn".
How many of us check the horn? It's like checking if the Milk in the fridge is sour..
I don't and i don't know why? ::005::
But when you need it and it's most likely at a critical moment between heaven and earth it will be to late.. ::007::

Keep an eye on air pressure, keep it at a constant psi level if you ride more black top than off road.
This will give a bit longer life even tire wear to the tire.

I flush my clutch system every 25k (it's due), it gets abused and gets grungy fast. At least mine does.
Flush my break system every pad change.
Rear pad change on this bike is the easiest i have ever done.
Have a set ready as the rear seems to wear faster than the front even though the front's take most of the stopping pressure.
ABS works front and back simultaneously even though you don't notice it.

Air filter and plugs every valve check, even if you don't do a valve check after the first initial check.
Some will say check the air filter more often if you live in a dusty environment.
I live in New Mexico and ride everyday and 25-27k works for me.

And while you have the tank up and filter box open check that little bulb lower left of the air box, it's an oil catch so it doesn't get into the filter media.
I have a longer clear tube on mine so i can look at it once in awhile.

Also check the vacuum cap on the outer side of the right fuel injector, it gets hot and dries out causing it to crack and causes head scratching and sleepless nights on why is my bike running like shit? ::010:: Also check the rest of the rubber hoses if you can attached to the EFI.

Rear gear oil change?
That's a preference for each individual that feels you need to do it every oil change or not.
I do it every 10k after the recommended break in period when the last change comes out looking new and not silver silt mixed in it.
Oil Change?
Yamaha says every 6k i do mine at 4k synthetic 3k non synthetic, that's just me.
Crush washers every third change (for me)..
Turn the oil plugs in if they instantly resist take it out and do it again till it starts going in smoothly, you don't want to cross thread the pan or rear end bolt plugs.
Quote unquote Don't" gorilla fist the oil plugs with your wrench back into the oil pan!!! It will lead to bad things, cracked oil pan.
Same with the rear pumpkin fluid bolts.
Easy slight snug tug with a box end and you are good, use torque spec's and torque wrench if you work for NASA.

And last but not least, the shift pedal arm pivot...
Every once in awhile (every other oil change for me) take it apart clean the old grease off all the parts and inside the pivot housing and re lube it.
Keep the parts in order for reverse assembly.
I can't think of anything other than keep an eye on the spokes once in awhile look them over.
And Ride!! ::26::
Thanks for this!

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Checkswrecks

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See Page 6-3 of the owners manual.
Owners manuals are online at Yamaha's website.
 
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