Main ignition switch overhaul

MikeinNZ

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Sep 27, 2018
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NZ
Riding home from work today I lost the use of my indicators, park and tail lights.... the culprit.
545ED3DD-BF20-4B9B-85E5-0073BC20407A.jpeg
That’s the bottom of the ignition switch with the cover off.
I thought I would share that you don’t need to rush out and buy a new immobiliser/main switch assembly if this happens to your bike.
Remove the handlebars and then the whole top triple clamp. I tied my bars to the ceiling to keep them out of the way. Turn the triple clamp on its side so you can get to the bottom of the ignition barrel.
The lower cover has special head break off M4 screws that need to be drilled with a 3/32” drill and a small easy out used to remove them.
Here’s a picture of one of the screws and the new Phillips screw to replace it. You need qty 2 M4 x 8.5mm long thread.
2E0A9AF0-4348-4DA8-8416-0B42B1F2378A.jpeg
Pull the bottom cover off and you’ll see these parts. Clean the contactors with scotchbrite, re lube and reassemble. Problem solved :)
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I wish I took a photo of the contractor plate as it was dirty and blue with copper oxide....Yes my bike is special ;)
 

Don in Lodi

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I had to do that two or three times to my Royal Star over it's 100,000 miles. Much easier to get to though.
 

~TABASCO~

RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
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NICE JOB !
 
R

RonH

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Good job. Contacts get dirty, bad connection, burn, then no switching voltage. Sometimes cleaning the contacts work, sometimes over time the integrity of the connection is still too low and the burn returns. Sure worth a try.
I worked 34yrs as a TV repairman and had the nickname switchmeister, as switches were a all too common problem, and I enjoyed for the most part disassembling, making a good switch out of 3 bad ones ect ect. Whatever it took.
 

AdvToorer

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Jun 25, 2012
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Denver, CO - USA
An ignition switch clean & lube may be in my future! I'm having intermittent stalling and code 19 issues which based on forum research I believe to be related to dirt in the ignition switch.
For anyone that has overhauled this switch, does the key mechanism/barrel also come out from the bottom and allow cleaning & lube?
 
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Mr. BR

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Jul 16, 2016
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San Jose, CA USA
I did this on my '05 FJR last year... almost identical to the Super Ten (which I've not done yet). No real issues or symptoms but I knew it was going to be dirty so I cleaned it (and I had bike apart for other reasons).
Regarding lube... I very lightly dressed and cleaned the electrical contacts but left them dry. I can see where some lube might be helpful but I'm still not entirely clear on what the CORRECT use of dielectric grease is. Is this the perfect situation to use a little? The other non-electric items did get a little white grease but that was it (spring detents etc). Not looking to start a debate on dielectric grease... just stating what I did and will likely do on the Super when the time comes.
Mr. BR
FJR ignition switch.jpg
 

Mr. BR

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Jul 16, 2016
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I assume you mean the Ignition Key lock/barrel? I left that attached to the steering crown as shown. Although my key is getting a little worn, it continues to work normally. The steering lock part (turning key fully to the left) was accessible and given a cleaning and some white grease.
Mr. BR
 

Drif10

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Jul 22, 2020
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Quebec
When I've got mine apart like that to clean the contacts, I take the opportunity to flush the lock barrel.

I put a couple of old towels on the tank to protect the tank, a shallow old baking tin to catch most of the crap. Then, from the key insert direction, I stick the nozzle from my spray can in and spray the ever loving shit out of the barrel, until the fluid runs clean. Wipe off the excess, shake out as much as I can, then reassemble.

I use CRC 3-30. The locksmiths at my old base swore by it, to the point of making the supply sergeant's life hell when he decided to buy something else.

I ride 40k a year, ride year round in Canada, so doing this once a year is kinda necessary for me. It gets kinda temperamental otherwise.
 
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