Lithium Battery

Cycledude

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Re: New Battery

whisperquiet said:
I replaced the stock YTZ12S in my 2013 S10 with the larger capacity YTZ14S Motocross battery (made by Yuasa) and starting was much quicker and energetic. The dimensions are the same with the 14S being about one pound heavier. My 2015 S10 will get the same heavier battery when the time comes.

https://www.batterystuff.com/powersports-batteries/YTZ14S.html?gclid=CjwKCAiA7JfSBRBrEiwA1DWSGwUd0FteOcUkKXNbHpaAWXt7lrEOz8n6H9nStDblSwjfB8RdtCVYohoCrDYQAvD_BwE

And, I also own the quickest starting motorcycle I have ever owned......my 2017 Kawasaki Versys-X 300---starts instantly and you can hardly get your finger off the start button fast enough. The Super Tenere not so much. [/quote

Actually your ytz14s battery only weighs one half pound more and has 15 more cold cranking amps than the stock ytz12s, I will be checking on the price for a new ytz14s from my local dealer today.
 

Kabish

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Re: New Battery

Don in Lodi said:
Horn jacked up good or bad?
Bad sounds like its going out on me. Always wanted to put an after market in, maybe now is the time time to do it. Kind of shocked though after only 3 years it would puter out. I've used the horn on the bike maybe a dozen times so its not like it gets used a lot.
 

Sierra1

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Can too much "juice" running through the horn damage it? I've never worn out a horn.
 

Kabish

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So my second day after installing the battery and I had the bike die on me yet again, this time in a different area but same circumstances.

I doing about 65 to 70 on the freeway and coming up on my exit. I just let off the throttle and let the S10 do what it does well engine break to bleed off some speed. Once I got on the off ramp I pulled in my clutch to drop a gear or two (was doing about 45ish at the time) in preparation to the curve, apparently I pushed this silent mode button... Bike just full out died within a few seconds of me pulling in the clutch at speed (clutch was still pulled when it stalled). Took me a second cause I could not believe it did it again, at least this time when I pushed the starter it turned over quickly and started right back up.

So, new battery did not fix the random stalling issue which I wasn't counting on, but was hoping it would help.
 

bigbob

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Kabish said:
Once I got on the off ramp I pulled in my clutch to drop a gear or two (was doing about 45ish at the time) in preparation to the curve, apparently I pushed this silent mode button... Bike just full out died within a few seconds of me pulling in the clutch at speed (clutch was still pulled when it stalled).
Why not just let out the clutch to start it?
 

Cycledude

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Sounds like maybe you have a habit of coasting with the clutch lever pulled in ? Is that the only way it has repeatedly been shutting itself off ? Even though the bike shouldn’t be shutting itself off like that I think maybe you should just try not coasting with the clutch pulled in. So far thankfully my Tenere has never shut itself off, well I accidentally did run it out of gas once but after I put some gas in it started rite up again.

Kabish said:
So my second day after installing the battery and I had the bike die on me yet again, this time in a different area but same circumstances.

I doing about 65 to 70 on the freeway and coming up on my exit. I just let off the throttle and let the S10 do what it does well engine break to bleed off some speed. Once I got on the off ramp I pulled in my clutch to drop a gear or two (was doing about 45ish at the time) in preparation to the curve, apparently I pushed this silent mode button... Bike just full out died within a few seconds of me pulling in the clutch at speed (clutch was still pulled when it stalled). Took me a second cause I could not believe it did it again, at least this time when I pushed the starter it turned over quickly and started right back up.

So, new battery did not fix the random stalling issue which I wasn't counting on, but was hoping it would help.
 

WJBertrand

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Nikolajsen said:
Could it be so simple, that your idling speed just is to low?
Is any adjustment possible? I thought these drive by wire bikes automatically controlled idle speed.
 

Nikolajsen

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No, I don't think any machanical adjustment is possible.
BUT it must be controlled electronically...which in my opinion could be malfunction (input or output)

A little later:.

The throttle position sensor should give between 0.63 and 0.73 V at idle...
 

Kabish

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I don't really coast with the clutch in, when the bike has died its been within a second of me pulling in the clutch. With that said, I'm always at the lower of the RPM range of the gear I'm in because I'm just letting the bike engine break. So I guess its possible that its not liking that, and I suppose it would make it seem pretty random given how I'm riding the bike that day. I know the bike doesn't like to be bliped, so maybe its a possibility that I'm getting the RPMs a little too low so when I pull in the clutch its jumping up immediately and causing a blip type effect... ::)

As far as the RPMs go, at idle with the bike warm it looks like its doing 1,000RPMs, its 2 1/2 bars on the tachometer.

And yes I know I can just let go of the clutch to get the bike running again. I mostly pushed the starter to see if I would have any issues restarting the bike.
 

Cycledude

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Blip a Tenere throttle nope I’ve never done that, it does sound kind of like you might be experiencing some kind of electrical part issue but if it was me I would attempt to avoid riding with the clutch pulled in or blipping the throttle is and see if that changes anything.
Te
Kabish said:
I don't really coast with the clutch in, when the bike has died its been within a second of me pulling in the clutch. With that said, I'm always at the lower of the RPM range of the gear I'm in because I'm just letting the bike engine break. So I guess its possible that its not liking that, and I suppose it would make it seem pretty random given how I'm riding the bike that day. I know the bike doesn't like to be bliped, so maybe its a possibility that I'm getting the RPMs a little too low so when I pull in the clutch its jumping up immediately and causing a blip type effect... ::)

As far as the RPMs go, at idle with the bike warm it looks like its doing 1,000RPMs, its 2 1/2 bars on the tachometer.

And yes I know I can just let go of the clutch to get the bike running again. I mostly pushed the starter to see if I would have any issues restarting the bike.
 

jbrown

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Novato, CA
I must be living a charmed life. My 2012 is on its original battery (a YTZ14S in the bike from the dealer btw). I just turn it on and start it. I don't wait for the meter to do its power up stuff. I don't wait for the fuel pump to stop making noise. I almost always blip the throttle when downshifting to match revs. I usually blip the throttle after starting it in the morning with the clutch lever pulled to free up the plates before putting it in first, 'cause I don't wait for it to warm up before riding away. My bike died on me once on the way home from the dealer when new, but I figure that was my fault. Other than that, it always starts right up, doesn't stall, idle stays steady.
My only real complaint about the bike was the shift lever needing to be lubed every month or so to get normal downshifting. But over the years, that has changed such that I don't remember when I last lubed it.
 

WJBertrand

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Kabish said:
I don't really coast with the clutch in, when the bike has died its been within a second of me pulling in the clutch. With that said, I'm always at the lower of the RPM range of the gear I'm in because I'm just letting the bike engine break. So I guess its possible that its not liking that, and I suppose it would make it seem pretty random given how I'm riding the bike that day. I know the bike doesn't like to be bliped, so maybe its a possibility that I'm getting the RPMs a little too low so when I pull in the clutch its jumping up immediately and causing a blip type effect... ::)

As far as the RPMs go, at idle with the bike warm it looks like its doing 1,000RPMs, its 2 1/2 bars on the tachometer.

And yes I know I can just let go of the clutch to get the bike running again. I mostly pushed the starter to see if I would have any issues restarting the bike.
Rev-matching blips during downshifts don't seem to cause any problems for me. The one case I read about where the rider was really wringing the throttle out aggressively and having stalling issues was resolved when he toned that back.

Can we get back to Li batteries? This case does not seem to be related to the battery,
 
B

ballisticexchris

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Checkswrecks said:
Merged lithium battery threads. fwiw, when the OEM battery in the Tenere died I replaced it with the bigger capacity "14" and intentionally stayed away from a lithium battery.


Before going to a lithium battery, I'd strongly suggest reading through this thread and especially the posts from hobdayd and myself.
My EarthX is still going strong on my Beta.

ballisticexchris said:
I can comment on the EarthX since I've had mine for just over 2 years since my bike was new. It has never failed to start. The one thing to remember with this or any lithium battery is it will take a few stabs at the starter button to fire up your bike in cold weather. By trying to start the bike, it actually "warms up" the battery.

The real advantage is being able to let the bike set for months at a time without discharging. You can't go wrong with your choice. Enjoy!!


However, I'm not sure I would recommend one for a big motorcycle like a Super Tenere. In any kind of cold weather these batteries suck!! I have a trick where I turn my fan on to warm it up. Reliable battery but not so good for a daily rider type bike that has a bunch of electronics. The choice is yours. IMHO, I would only run a tried and true AGM for our bikes. I'm no engineer or have any "hard data" other than running my EarthX since 2012 and have seen both the advantage and disadvantage of the battery.
 
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