Linkage Bones (Jack Up Kits)

markjenn

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Rasher said:
I think the bike would benefit from a higher ride height but 35mm sounds a little extreme (I was thinking 10-15mm) I also wonder if the wheel will still touch the ground when the bike is on the stand?
35mm sounds like a bit much to me also. I measure less than 1/2" for the current rear wheel-floor clearance on the centerstand, so I think you'd be hosed on using the centerstand w/o mods. The sidestand would probably way overlean too. You can weld shims on either or both. Or for the centerstand, use the trick of putting a 3/4" piece of ply under the feet as you hoist it up.

I was going to go raising links, but I think I'll stay on the sideline and see what matures in the way of aftermarket suspension with adjustable ride height. My issue with the S10 is lack of cornering clearance, especially on the left.

- Mark
 

JonnyCinco

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Wasp works makes dogbones for the S10 and has a kit that including steel to increase the center stand height as well.

35 mm is a boat load of height increase. I would be worried that steering would be too touchy with the loss of rake/trail
 

~TABASCO~

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dcstrom

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I have the Waspworks kit - they are 25mm, which seems to me about right. Steering is a bit quicker without being twitchy. I'd say about the same as my Strom now. One thing I haven't tested yet is loose gravel/mud. The Strom tends to fold the front in that situation, the stock S10 does not. Hoping the raising links don't introduce that tendency.

25mm is not too high for me. Stock I firmly flat-foot both sides, with the raising links I "lightly" flat-foot.

The rear wheel touches the ground while on the centerstand, so if (as seems likely) I decide to stay with the links, I'll have the Wasp feet welded to the bottom of the stand. I don't think I'll add the supplied sidestand extension - the bike leans over more, but that's not an altogether bad thing and I added a big foot to it to reduce the tendency to sink in soft ground.

If this is a pic of the actual raising links from off-the-road.de - they look pretty flimsy compared to Wasp's



Trevor
 

Rasher

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Thanks guys.

In view of the comments I think I would want 10mm - 15mm personally, on most bikes a few mm makes ahuge difference, my GS feels a bit lazy with 32mm static sag (pre-load on minimum) but pretty sporty at 25mm, the Tenere starts off quite a bit lazier so I am guessing 10mm+ would be needed.

The other option is a shock with ride height adjuster, this adds about £80 to the cost of a Wilburs, but if someone starts making 10 - 15mm bones I would defintately try them first, no real benefit to adjustable ride height as once set I would not change it (as you need to remove the shock) so if I buy a shock with ride height I would probably just wind on 5-6mm at the shock and leave it there.
 

Tremor38

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JonnyCinco said:
Wasp works makes dogbones for the S10 and has a kit that including steel to increase the center stand height as well.

35 mm is a boat load of height increase. I would be worried that steering would be too touchy with the loss of rake/trail
Not to mention the U-joint having to transmit torgue at a considerably increased angle. I s'pose the up side is one could be in the running for Final Drive Story of the Year along with the GS boys.
 

dcstrom

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Tremor38 said:
Not to mention the U-joint having to transmit torgue at a considerably increased angle.
Must admit, I've wondered about that. I have no idea how to judge whether 1" drop at the rear tire (static) would would contribute much, if anything, to stresses at the uni-joint. Any engineers care to hazard a guess?

Trevor
 

GrahamD

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Tremor38 said:
I s'pose the up side is one could be in the running for Final Drive Story of the Decade along with the GS boys.
Fixed..

I am sure the first drive failure will be trumpeted far and wide and it will be a disaster for YAMAHA.
 

Rasher

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I have now seen ride height kits for 20mm on E-Bay in the UK and the add states they can make custom sizes.

I have asked about a 10mm kit as I still think this will be better to just sharpen up the steering a tad and help out with ground clearance, although 20mm is probably not too bad and is no different to winding the pre-load up to max (just without giving a harsh ride)

For me with my Wilburs shock that already has a bit less sag with rider on-board (starting from same static sag as OE unit) and sits about 5mm above stock a 10mm raise should be all I need, and if I want a bit more I would start dropping the forks as the Wilburs has already given a load more ground clearance, the bike probably sits a good 10mm higher in turns from the stiffer spring, and coupled with these dog bones I can fine tune things by lowering the front quite a lot and still have more clearance than stock.

I know I could just wind on loads of pre-load, but that gives a harsh ride, I want to maintain a decent amount of sag for solo use so i get a softer ride, but still have the clearance and steering I get when the bike is that bit higher.

This rise is about the same as two lines on the pre-load adjuster on the OE shock if anyone wants to go and see what difference 10mm makes ::008::Obviosuly the ride will be harsher, but if you prefer the steering with the bike higher and the ride with the ride lower a pair of not too crazy dog bones are probably ideal.
 

Rasher

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Gave up on E-Bay shop replying and went straight to the manufacturer, got a decent response, who else here would be interested in a mild lift to just help out the steering and give a shade more ground clearance without being miles from the floor or worrying about stupid shaft drive angles :question:

If I can get some feedback / interest from the collective I will pass it on

Thank you for contacting Lust Racing.

We expand our product line continuously.

We will take your request into account.

I consider it very likely that we bring a +10mm jack up kit for the XTZ1200 Super Tenere 2010-onwards
in the near future. I do not dare to promise it on this years side, but i would hope for a kit ready
in early 2013. I forward your request to the product development.

We do usually not make "one off" kits. To keep the prices competitive we tend to make
kits in serial production to be able to keep our prices on a very competitive level.

We are happy to let you know when we have a +10 mm jack up kit available.


Best Regards,

Alex

Alexander Wrede
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slipangle

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~TABASCO~ said:
We got'em too............... CNC Stainless !
I'm interested in your raising links, but I'm curious about the specific adjustment needed to keep the centerstand functional.

As Wasp includes pads with their links that the user would need to weld to the feet of the centerstand, is that something you also provide? Is it even needed with your links, since is appears that they are slightly shorter? Another possible option if the pads are needed: Would it be feasible to create some bolt on pads and make those available as an additional purchase, similar to the one you offer for the sidestand? While that may make for an expensive option, it would be nice to have something more easily reversible.
 

markjenn

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slipangle said:
I'm curious about the specific adjustment needed to keep the centerstand functional.
Just some general experience with raising links....for slight to moderate raises - no, I'm not being very precise - the centerstand is typically still functional, although it won't put the rear wheel as far off the ground and because of this, it may be somewhat less stable. On the positive, getting the bike on the centerstand is often much easier. There is always the trick of using a small piece of plywood under the centerstand feet to restore the original spec.

- Mark
 

slipangle

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markjenn said:
Just some general experience with raising links....for slight to moderate raises - no, I'm not being very precise - the centerstand is typically still functional, although it won't put the rear wheel as far off the ground and because of this, it may be somewhat less stable. On the positive, getting the bike on the centerstand is often much easier. There is always the trick of using a small piece of plywood under the centerstand feet to restore the original spec.

- Mark
Mark,

Thank you for your input, and I may just go with the plywood route. Jaxon's web store page has an annotation that an adjustment to the centerstand will be necessary when using his links, but it's not specific about what the adjustment would be.
http://www.rideonadv.com/Ride_On_Adv/Lower_Links.html

You've got to love the guy. It's a part that you'll never see after it's installed on the bike, yet he still goes out of his way to make it look nice.
 
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