LED light conversion question.

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Jun 23, 2021
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Quebec
if i want to replace my headlight for better one for night ride !
what should be the best fix without adding anything ?
 

cycledelic relic

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Central Texas
While a good set of Cyclops H7 leds helped the anemic stock headlights somewhat...there was still no escaping the fact that the single filament bulb with movable reflector for hi/lo was a poor design.
My night lighting only noticably improved with the addition of a Cyclops 6 led hi/lo light bar under the headlights. That made all the difference.
 

Ric H

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Jul 20, 2021
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Ontario, Canada
Di not rush to buy. the novsigth H7 model that you posted is from a previous generation (36w per lamp….the newer ones are 50w per lamp


Finally got around to trying to install the 55w Novasight led units. They will NOT work even with the extended covers.
If you are going to give advice, do it from first hand experience and sound knowledge.20220504_173256.jpg
 

Jlq1969

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Finally got around to trying to install the 55w Novasight led units. They will NOT work even with the extended covers.
If you are going to give advice, do it from first hand experience and sound knowledge.View attachment 91245
I didn't understand the "give advice" part, but if you read #11, in that post, I think (if my English doesn't fail me), I said that the small box with capacitors inside, "doesn't fit into the headlight"... .
 

Ric H

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I didn't understand the "give advice" part, but if you read #11, in that post, I think (if my English doesn't fail me), I said that the small box with capacitors inside, "doesn't fit into the headlight"... .
You said the 55w was a better choice. So what would you do with the box that holds the capacitors?
 

Jlq1969

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You said the 55w was a better choice. So what would you do with the box that holds the capacitors?
The first thing you have to do is calm down. Today, practically "all" current and excellent quality LED lamps come with this box (canbus), which is fundamentally intended for 2 objectives: 1) avoid the "burnt lamp" signal in vehicles that have this function and 2) avoid blinking, when the lamp is not powered directly from the battery and there are voltage drops. If you look in the market, you will probably find some lamp without canbus, but they will surely be of a previous generation or of lower quality/power.
Not all upgrades are plug and play. The LED lamps you bought are an improvement over the OEM ones, but they require certain adaptations so that they "fit" into the headlight. The first adaptation is the extended cap (whose purpose is only for the cooler) otherwise the "cooler" is so big that the oem cap does not close. The second adaptation is "the canbus box". As I said in post #11, this box "does not fit" in the headlight, there is not enough space for it to fit. This box also requires "another" adaptation. If you don't want to "remove" the box you must place the box outside, cut wires, pierce the extended cap, put on a rubber seal, and use electrical connectors....."I" (AND THIS IS NOT ADVICE), simply remove the canbus box, I put some electrical connectors protected with heat-shrinkable plastic, and that's it, they work great, no blinking,... But, the fact that I have done it, does not enable me to "advise" others to do it. In any "adaptation" there is not always a single way to do it, so the best thing is to search/read the different ways to “adapt” something, and from there... choose the simplest/effective way to do it.
The adaptation of led lights with canbus box, it has a solution, but the "first" thing you should do before deciding to adapt, would be to ask the supplier if the lamp you bought (of the same power and quality, comes from the factory without a canbus box.
 

Cycledude

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The first thing you have to do is calm down. Today, practically "all" current and excellent quality LED lamps come with this box (canbus), which is fundamentally intended for 2 objectives: 1) avoid the "burnt lamp" signal in vehicles that have this function and 2) avoid blinking, when the lamp is not powered directly from the battery and there are voltage drops. If you look in the market, you will probably find some lamp without canbus, but they will surely be of a previous generation or of lower quality/power.
Not all upgrades are plug and play. The LED lamps you bought are an improvement over the OEM ones, but they require certain adaptations so that they "fit" into the headlight. The first adaptation is the extended cap (whose purpose is only for the cooler) otherwise the "cooler" is so big that the oem cap does not close. The second adaptation is "the canbus box". As I said in post #11, this box "does not fit" in the headlight, there is not enough space for it to fit. This box also requires "another" adaptation. If you don't want to "remove" the box you must place the box outside, cut wires, pierce the extended cap, put on a rubber seal, and use electrical connectors....."I" (AND THIS IS NOT ADVICE), simply remove the canbus box, I put some electrical connectors protected with heat-shrinkable plastic, and that's it, they work great, no blinking,... But, the fact that I have done it, does not enable me to "advise" others to do it. In any "adaptation" there is not always a single way to do it, so the best thing is to search/read the different ways to “adapt” something, and from there... choose the simplest/effective way to do it.
The adaptation of led lights with canbus box, it has a solution, but the "first" thing you should do before deciding to adapt, would be to ask the supplier if the lamp you bought (of the same power and quality, comes from the factory without a canbus box.
Kind of confusing figuring out what you actually did. Did you actually cut off the wire for box and install the lights with no box ? Yes I have heard of others doing that and claiming the lights work fine without the box but have never been sure I could trust that advice so never attempted it myself.
 

Jlq1969

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Kind of confusing figuring out what you actually did. Did you actually cut off the wire for box and install the lights with no box ? Yes I have heard of others doing that and claiming the lights work fine without the box but have never been sure I could trust that advice so never attempted it myself.
This is how I did it, I took the risk (not without first having read about what could be done). The risk was the possibility of blinking, but it did not happen. Burnt lamp signal the S10 does not have.
LED lamps work with 12V, they do not form a voltaic arc inside a gas like HID XENON, that's why they require a ballast. But if you take a good look at an HID kit, they have 2 boxes. One box is the ballast, and the other box is the same box that the LEDs have to avoid the burnt lamp signal or blinking.
8807C4D5-F3A2-4B77-8034-440C7173361E.jpeg
Previously I had an HID kit installed on the S10. I always said that I "seem" better than the Leds. As time passed, the HID lamp began to dim internally and the light changed intensity and color. Since HIDs are practically discontinued, I opted to switch to Leds. The lamps that I have on are 36w each and they came with the canbus box. Today there are better lamps than the ones I have (55w) that are more powerful and are still "within the consumption range" than the oem halogen lamps (55w)
 

fsu747

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Apr 27, 2022
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Memphis, TN
I'm looking to order these bulbs from Cyclops. I have already ordered extended caps in blue from "deftoner". Does anyone know if there will be any issues with these bulbs as far as the mounting and space goes? Looking to save a few dollars by getting the caps, plus I get them in a color, somewhere else. These bulbs are only $64.95 thru Cylops.

https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/48-Platinum-H7-LED-Headlight-Bulb_p_86.html
 
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Cycledude

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Rib lake wi
I'm looking to order these bulbs from Cyclops. I have already ordered extended caps in blue from "deftoner". Does anyone know if there will be any issues with these bulbs as far as the mounting and space goes? Looking to save a few dollars by getting the caps, plus I get them in a color, somewhere else. These bulbs are only $64.95 thru Cylops.

https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/48-Platinum-H7-LED-Headlight-Bulb_p_86.html
They appear to be the same Cyclops kit I have but apparently they have raised the price a little. installing at least for me is very difficult ! But my opinion they put out way more usable light than most other LED kits.
I also tried a set of Novasight they appeared to be nice and bright until riding after dark when my opinion is they don’t even put out as much useable light as the very lousy stock Yamaha Halogen bulbs.
 
Last edited:

bimota

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Dec 10, 2017
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bridgend, Wales, UK
What led bulbs do I get for the parking lights?
any T10 501 LED bulb

example i,m using these they have been fine

rob
 

Jlq1969

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Nevermind, I found that this there is a LED h7 bulb with nylon cooling base...I will order them and see...but according to this video it should work
Not being very powerful, they do not need much cooling. The power is related to the "depth and opening of the light beam"... If you look at the headlight from the front, it surely looks better than the oem halogens, but the important thing is the ability of the lamps to light "forward". ”
0A28156C-AF77-4405-B28D-1994E6500547.jpeg
 

Purificator81

ride until the end of endless road...
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Morocco
Not being very powerful, they do not need much cooling. The power is related to the "depth and opening of the light beam"... If you look at the headlight from the front, it surely looks better than the oem halogens, but the important thing is the ability of the lamps to light "forward". ”
View attachment 91530
Thanks a lot. Cancelled my order...
I just don't/can't get along with changing anything other than the bulb....all I need is the same performance of the OEM but in pure white color light similar to the aux led light I installed...
 
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