Learning Valve Adjustment

Morgan

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
64
Location
Cambridge, UK
Hi all, I’m curious how you learned to adjust your valves. I’m confident enough to try most jobs but this one feels a bit out of my range. How did you learn to do it? I happily pay a shop to do it if they would let me help, but insurance often prevents that, and there is no chance a dealer would allow it. I would love to learn how to do this job, but just don’t know where. Ideas? One thought was to buy a trailer and go for it. This way if I fail I could at least drag the bike to a shop. That seems like a last resort.
 

WJBertrand

Ventura Highway
Joined
Jun 20, 2015
Messages
4,516
Location
Ventura, CA
The Yamaha factory manual is required for sure. The best way to learn is to get help from someone on the forum who has done it and hopefully lives close enough and is willing to help. I think it's really important to fully understand the four-stroke cycle and what bits should be in which position at which point all around the two crank rotations that complete a cycle. The latter can be learned studying on-line resources unless you've already got a good grasp.
 

Mr. BR

Active Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2016
Messages
91
Location
San Jose, CA USA
I had an interest in cars/bikes from early on but way back in the 80’s after high school, I spent several years working at a Hon-Yam shop while going to College. It was a time of FJs, Secas, Maxims, Viragos, CBs, Interceptors, Gold-wings etc…
This is where I was able to observe and learn about most of the normal service items, including valve clearance checks…. I loved it but I knew it wasn’t a career.
Fast forward 35+ yrs and I do all my own valve checks and have on every bike I’ve owned. Current ride is an FJR1300 and any Super Tenere in my future will get a valve check with little hesitation.
Online resources such as these forums can be great for guidance as there is almost always someone who has documented the valve check process.
Get a good Service Manual for your bike, a decent set of tools, study the process, get help from friends as needed, and then do it….. slowly and carefully!
Regards,
Mr. BR
 

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WJBertrand

Ventura Highway
Joined
Jun 20, 2015
Messages
4,516
Location
Ventura, CA
I well recognize that second photo of an ST1100 cylinder head. That bike was easier than most because removing the gear driven cams is very straightforward, no need to mess with a timing chain. I also liked that the holders for each cam could be removed individually. I actually suffered a burnt exhaust valve on my ST1100 and had to remove the head for the repair.
 

Mr. BR

Active Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2016
Messages
91
Location
San Jose, CA USA
WJB... you are correct! That is my old '95 ST1100 that I owned for about 5 yrs and sold back in '14 when I got my '05 FJR13. It was a great bike and served me well for about 30K miles. I checked valves, changed the T-belt, water pump and also did the 40amp alternator upgrade which was standard starting in '96. Relatively EASY valve check and access!!!
Mr. BR
 

holligl

Find the road less traveled...
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Messages
2,212
Location
IL/AZ
How many miles you got on the bike? You are likely to just need a check the first interval. That part is easier and would build your confidence. Once you have to pull the cams, you need to be more carefull.

I just adjusted mine this last year for the first time. Take it slow the first time. Allow a couple days so you aren't rushed. Get a shim kit and all the gaskets and tools ahead of time so you won't have to wait on parts. I did need a stronger magnet to pull the buckets.

Resetting the CCT was the trickiest for me the first time, as I was trying to force it. Members here helped me to simply lighten the pressure and back off if it starts to bind. I will probably replace it next time, but resetting it is pretty easy once you've done it once. Wear gloves as you rotate it, or you will cut yourself.

Follow the manual!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

Morgan

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
64
Location
Cambridge, UK
How many miles you got on the bike? You are likely to just need a check the first interval. That part is easier and would build your confidence. Once you have to pull the cams, you need to be more carefull.

I just adjusted mine this last year for the first time. Take it slow the first time. Allow a couple days so you aren't rushed. Get a shim kit and all the gaskets and tools ahead of time so you won't have to wait on parts. I did need a stronger magnet to pull the buckets.

Resetting the CCT was the trickiest for me the first time, as I was trying to force it. Members here helped me to simply lighten the pressure and back off if it starts to bind. I will probably replace it next time, but resetting it is pretty easy once you've done it once. Wear gloves as you rotate it, or you will cut yourself.

Follow the manual!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Right now it’s just under 27k miles. So this would be the first check. I’m interested to know why the first one would be easier? Is it more of a check then a adjustment? I really appreciate all the help.
 

Morgan

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
64
Location
Cambridge, UK
The Yamaha factory manual is required for sure. The best way to learn is to get help from someone on the forum who has done it and hopefully lives close enough and is willing to help. I think it's really important to fully understand the four-stroke cycle and what bits should be in which position at which point all around the two crank rotations that complete a cycle. The latter can be learned studying on-line resources unless you've already got a good grasp.
That would be awesome. Anyone interested in a post lockdown teaching session? Thanks for your reply. Every bit helps build my courage.
 

holligl

Find the road less traveled...
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Messages
2,212
Location
IL/AZ
Right now it’s just under 27k miles. So this would be the first check. I’m interested to know why the first one would be easier? Is it more of a check then a adjustment? I really appreciate all the help.
Right, you take it apart far enough to check the cam clearances. If its in spec, you close it back up. If not, you have to remove cams, buckets and shims, and adjust clearances by putting in appropriate shims. Suggest you do watch the video above, I did before starting mine. It is a bit long but you can jump forward in places. I also read the manual about 10 times.

I still did one thing I won't repeat next time. After checking clearances on Cyl #2, it says remove Cams, see appropriate page. So I pulled the cams. Realized too late the first step on the referenced page was to turn 360° to reset for Cyl #1. Not a huge deal but then I had to rely on the permanent cam markings rather than easier temporary markings.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
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