Issues downshifting with 2012 Gen I model Super Tenere

[bloodyeye769]

Hello all,

I Just recently bought a used Super Tenere and love most of everything about it, but i am having issues with shifting. when not in motion i cant shift into neutral at all, and while moving I can only do it when the bike is going about 10-13mph. When downshifting (moving or not) I have to press significantly more forcefully than I ever have had to on previous bikes(All Hondas) to downshift, and it makes me wonder, because upshifting is super smooth on it. its like night and day. If I rev match while I'm downshifting it feels like it makes it a little better, but it is still an issue, especially with how I cant really get it into neutral.

Furthermore, when I have the clutch pulled in all the way, I can still feel the bike trying just a bit to pull forward, which makes backing up a huge pain considering I have only one chance to get it into neutral when getting ready to park before it starts to slip completely past neutral again, and this is a relatively heavy bike to try and move with just my toes haha.

All in all, I think this is a clutch issue of some sort, but I'm not mechanically inclined enough to know what is actually going on, what I should do, or how much it will cost. What do you all think?

 

[bimota]

you need to take the gear shifter off clean up and lube up it,ll be fine this has happened to loads of us

rob

 

[Fennellg]

exactly, start with the obvious and easiest first. Being lazy and less to go wrong, stripping or loosing parts, spray something (wd40) in the switch and work it. A little dirt and grime can cause big trouble, our gear shifters comes to mind. Being lazy I put in a zert. It’s been years since I have pulled it apart for missed or not being able to shift problems. Before a trip, grease gun in the zert. Pushes out some grease and grime. Wipe with a napkin. Smooth as a baby’s butt shifts.

View attachment 98113

The zert faces that way for a reason. Any other way and you hook your pant leg. Trail and error. I had a trip or two with missed no shift crap. Was not able to enjoy. As humans we tend to push the envelope for unpleasant time consuming messy stuff. Decided to pay upfront take the pain and time and mess part out, strangely enough one of the more satisfying things I have done to the bike. Probably less than 30 mins to do. Has saved me a ton of time and annoyance.

If my bike is not right than neither am I.

 

[Fennellg]

 

[whisperquiet]

Cleaning and lubing the shift lever pivot is the cure. Then take the time to replace/bleed the clutch fluid.

 

[Fennellg]

That’s my fix. My lawn tractor uses zerts sleeves and grease instead of bearings. To be honest I wish both used bearings instead. It would make them maintenance free.

 

[Fennellg]

Well that’s what it does with a lot less fuss. Obviously it it initially taken apart and cleaned then zert added grease added.

This solution is well out of the theoretical and years into practical application without a hitch.

 

[bloodyeye769]

you need to take the gear shifter off clean up and lube up it,ll be fine this has happened to loads of us

rob

i understand, and i will be doing that soon, but i asked because it seems to be different from the issues that i have read about other guys experiencing, but i suppose I will just have to do it and go from there. Do you know why it is that the lack of lube would contribute to physically difficult downshifts, but not upshifts? Also, is it possible that the power creep I am experiencing is playing into this?

 

[whisperquiet]

Also, is it possible that the power creep I am experiencing is playing into this?

That is why I clean/lube the shift pivot AND bleed the clutch hydraulics.

 

[gv550]

Clean and lube the shifter pivot first, and the rear brake pivot. Clutch creep could be because the slave cylinder doesn't have enough stroke to fully release the clutch plates, start by replacing the fluid and bleeding all the air from the system. If that doesn't eliminate the creep then you could have warped clutch plates, disassemble and inspect the clutch and replace the plates if necessary.

 

[Fennellg]

Shotgun method leave you in the dark as to what is going wrong. I like to try one thing at a time.

Other items can be done after you have determined the problem.

 

[Checkswrecks]

i understand, and i will be doing that soon, but i asked because it seems to be different from the issues that i have read about other guys experiencing, but i suppose I will just have to do it and go from there. Do you know why it is that the lack of lube would contribute to physically difficult downshifts, but not upshifts? Also, is it possible that the power creep I am experiencing is playing into this?

It's no different and yes, my 2012 would get the creep.

My GUESS as to why it is harder to downshift is the direction of power being applied inside the gearbox. The engine makes horsepower versus the driven rear wheel creating torque.

 

[Cycledude]

I have never experienced those issues with my Tenere’s but many others have. Took mine apart to grease but it seemed to work the same afterwards. It’s also a good idea to grease the clutch lever bushing occasionally. Make sure the clutch lever fluid is clean and not over filled.

 

[Wallkeeper]

i understand, and i will be doing that soon, but i asked because it seems to be different from the issues that i have read about other guys experiencing, but i suppose I will just have to do it and go from there. Do you know why it is that the lack of lube would contribute to physically difficult downshifts, but not upshifts? Also, is it possible that the power creep I am experiencing is playing into this?

I think the lack of lube and the addition of grit adds just enough drag to the assembly that the spring tension is not quite enough to return it immediately to the reset position. Given a minute or two, my Gen II would return and do another down shift before locking up again or if I slightly lifted the lever before down shifting then it would go.

Put your bike on the center stand (engine off) and hand cycle the shifter. You will likely not see it fully return after downshifting

First time I ran into it, a couple of drops of PTFE dry bicycle lube took care of it

 

[Fennellg]

It does. Could never seem to pack enough grease in there to keep the dirt and grit out long term, till I put my zert in.

I just want things to work. If it works I am usually down with it.

 

[Highwayman]

I'd plan on a couple easy things to do next day off. I'd clean and grease the shift pivot as mentioned & also bleed the clutch. It also sounds like you have an issue with the master or air in the system. Yes, the dry shifter pivot will cause a downshift issue for sure, but the drag you mention with clutch lever pulled in isn't related to the shifter pivot.

 

[bloodyeye769]

I think the lack of lube and the addition of grit adds just enough drag to the assembly that the spring tension is not quite enough to return it immediately to the reset position. Given a minute or two, my Gen II would return and do another down shift before locking up again or if I slightly lifted the lever before down shifting then it would go.

Put your bike on the center stand (engine off) and hand cycle the shifter. You will likely not see it fully return after downshifting

First time I ran into it, a couple of drops of PTFE dry bicycle lube took care of it

it returns just fine after a shift, the only issue I am having is that it is physically difficult to downshift while not in motion. when in motion, i have to rev the engine a significant amount in order to get it to go easy-ish in such a way that I feel like I'm not breaking something on the inside by pushing with the force required to move the lever down a gear. Is lubing the shift pivot (or lack thereof) something that really does affect my bike that way?

 

[Fennellg]

Yes and the price of knowing for sure is a clean up and a little grease. If don’t have any grease your wife, or girlfriend has some petroleum jelly should should suffice.

 

[Sierra1]

Cleaning and lubing the shift lever pivot is the cure. Then take the time to replace/bleed the clutch fluid.

I agree with the cleaning for the shifting issue. And I think the creeping is due to the fluid needing to be bled.

 

[Mr. BR]

Your clutch creep while stopped in gear means your clutch is not fully disengaged; this “drag” is then putting a slight load on the transmission which can make it difficult to find neutral. Also, check how your clutch lever is adjusted at the pivot… #1 or #4? #1 puts the lever farthest from the grip but also gives you the fullest stroke for the most disengagement… (my hands are large, so I’m always #1).
So, as others have instructed, lube your gear shift lever pivot and then bleed/change the clutch fluid. This really should be an easy fix so let us know how it goes.
Regards,
Mr. BR
’12 Super Ten