Anwar Namtut
Member
*popcorn eating gif*
Is Motul 5100 same as Yamalube 10/40.
- Thread starter EVSY
- Start date
Boris
Well-Known Member
And wondering when it will be a year old, so that it can stop working.
Old Scratch
Member
Daaayum! This fun. Rotella for the win! Save your money for a new set of Dunlop Trailmax missions. Best tire ever.
Chaz
Well-Known Member
I wonder seeing a oil company diagram with brands and names...I bet there is a few big names and a lot of subdivisions that are all equal ...who knows?
I bought Canadian Tire oil and it was made by Shell...
I bought Canadian Tire oil and it was made by Shell...
I did!! Coke is better than Pepsi.. . . . P.S., everyone get out and vote!!
Fennellg
Well-Known Member
But not The old New Coke
moto.monk
Well-Known Member
So which is better conventional or synthetic oil?
Eville Rich
Well-Known Member
I'm testing out synthetic ghee. This is a change from my conventional clarified butter. Both good to about 450 degrees!
Eville Rich
2016 S10
Stantdm
Active Member
I run Motul in my four strokes and have had no problems.
staq50
Member
Probably semantics, but is oil that meets JASON MA really diesel oil? I mean it may say diesel on the front, but if it meets motorcycle specs, that's really just a label or marketing
I mean, it comes down mostly to
- Does the oil have additives that damage a motocycles wet clutch?
- Does it resist shearing and breaking down too fast?
No this oil has 'NO' friction modifiers so is wet clutch suitable.. 'NO' oil with 'friction modifiers' or 'Enviro oils' should not be used in a motorcycle with a wet clutch....Probably semantics, but is oil that meets JASON MA really diesel oil? I mean it may say diesel on the front, but if it meets motorcycle specs, that's really just a label or marketing
I mean, it comes down mostly to
- Does the oil have additives that damage a motocycles wet clutch?
- Does it resist shearing and breaking down too fast?
[/QU
it's also a high performance full zinc and shear viscosity modifiers etc etc...absolutely can be used in a motorcycle...
we have the JASO MA standard now because up untill 1998 we used car oils in our bikes..still do. but because of new generations of modern oils arriving on the market ie the 'friction moded, and 'Enviro oils that are not to be used in MC's , JASO MA standard is to seperated these oils from MC compatable oils....of course you can still use non JASO MA in MC's as long as they are not modified...
staq50
Member
no not at all, also depends on the grade if you like of diesel oil ie, this Penrite has a JASO DH1 rating, not a JASO DH1/CF ..not all diesel oils are the same as with auto oils...
wow thats a big statement i love PEPSII did!! Coke is better than Pepsi.
Blue Teneres
Yeah, I think I got all that but thanks for clarifiying (for the record, I run T4 15w40 in my Super T
)
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
A point not brought up (or that I may have missed) that is a part of the Magnuson-Moss act, is that if the manufacturer insists you use only their, or a specific, brand of maintenance products (oil, filters, etc.) in order to keep your warranty in effect, then they must provide them free to the consumer. If Yamaha insisted and gave me free oil, then I would use it exclusively. What's not to like about free? It appears that Yamaha uses whomever is most convenient to make their oils depending on local costs and perhaps trade issues. I would not be surprised if they occasionally shop around for new packagers based on costs. The fact that there are different packagers in different geographies indicates that Yamaha are OK with different oils so long as they're marked with the correct specifications. I personally think you're in better warranty standing, in the event of an oil related claim, using a motorcycle specific oil, over diesel oil, regardless of the labeling. To the letter of the law the diesel stuff meets the standard but you might run up against more "opinion" objections with those deciding your claim.
Regarding racers, I think they will use whatever suitable oil they can get a sponsorship from. Without a sponsor, they probably have their own personal opinions, just like all of us.
Regarding racers, I think they will use whatever suitable oil they can get a sponsorship from. Without a sponsor, they probably have their own personal opinions, just like all of us.
I agree that it maybe easier if you do everything as "recommended". For those in the US, the Magnuson-Moss act is something to consider. Remember that a lot of folks are from other places where the Magnuson-Moss act means nothing of course
Also agree re: racers. For racing, they change their oil a LOT more than the average person (and put an entirely different type of load on the motor and parts).
As for the actual issue at hand: I've not heard of many Super T motors failing within warranty (or at all) and don't think this is a common scenario.
Most people make way too much of the Oil thing IMO, without actually doing any oil analysis. If people are trying to stretch to long change intervals, certainly using a Synthetic oil, something that will resist shearing is much more important. Just as it's important to change more frequently if riding in very dirty conditions.
Again, everyone should do what makes them sleep better at night.
Something i wanted to clarify. I read either on here or another forum that Semi-Synthetic oil is better for bikes that use an oil filter as it suspends the dirty particles in the oil better so as to make the filtering more efficient. Fully Synthetic does not do this aswell.
Winger54
New Member
Ive been using Rotella T6 in my Gl1800 for years, changing every 5000 miles. Good Price, Good Protection and wet clutch friendly.
I don't see why I can't use it in my newly acquired S10
Winger54
New Member
T6 is JASO MA . Running it in my GL1800 for years. Just picked up a S10Yeah, I think I got all that but thanks for clarifiying (for the record, I run T4 15w40 in my Super T
B
ballisticexchris
Guest
All joking aside, almost any oil manufactured will work just fine under normal conditions on any bike. Where the quality of oil comes into play is when something bad happens and you need the extra protection of an expensive ester based oil. I personally like the extra extreme cold/heat protection ester based oil provides.
An example is when my KTM 300 blew a hose 8 miles from my truck. I had to ride at least 4 miles of nasty singe track uphill to get back to the staging area. On a motor with no coolant. I am convinced it was the Motul 800 that saved me. I made it back fine. When I got home I pulled the pipe and the piston and cylinder were still in good shape.
My thought process when using oil is to think of the worst case scenario that can happen. In the case of the Super Tenere, there is no oil pressure warning to give you time to shut down the motor. It is a dry sump design with only a low oil warning. If a rock or piece of debris punches a hole in your case it's game over by the time the low oil light comes on. I want the best protection possible to hopefully save my motor.
An example is when my KTM 300 blew a hose 8 miles from my truck. I had to ride at least 4 miles of nasty singe track uphill to get back to the staging area. On a motor with no coolant. I am convinced it was the Motul 800 that saved me. I made it back fine. When I got home I pulled the pipe and the piston and cylinder were still in good shape.
My thought process when using oil is to think of the worst case scenario that can happen. In the case of the Super Tenere, there is no oil pressure warning to give you time to shut down the motor. It is a dry sump design with only a low oil warning. If a rock or piece of debris punches a hole in your case it's game over by the time the low oil light comes on. I want the best protection possible to hopefully save my motor.