Idle dip and stalling

Lautarooo

Active Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2019
Messages
152
Location
Riverhead, NY
Hi guys I have a 2017 with 1k miles.. since i got the bike I’ve been stalling a lot on take off, ive been riding for 15 years so i have plenty of experience.. I think I know why it happens.. when I rev up the bike to get a feel for the engine before i let go of the clutch, when the revs come back down they dip below the idle of 1250 down to 1000.. so if i happen to engage the clutch just at this instance the engine hic ups and dies.... upon further investigation this even happens in neutral without the clutch... any thoughts to fix this? if i rev the engine it shouldnt dip down below the idle speed right? Thanks!!
 

Nikolajsen

"Keep it simple"
Joined
Jul 1, 2017
Messages
2,046
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Denmark
It usually go away bt itself, when you get more miles on it.
Mine did the same (just not so many times, max. 5 times), now I have 8000 miles on it, and I don't remember when it happen last :)
 

Riley8

2017 Super Tenere
Joined
Oct 4, 2017
Messages
16
Hi guys I have a 2017 with 1k miles.. since i got the bike I’ve been stalling a lot on take off, ive been riding for 15 years so i have plenty of experience.. I think I know why it happens.. when I rev up the bike to get a feel for the engine before i let go of the clutch, when the revs come back down they dip below the idle of 1250 down to 1000.. so if i happen to engage the clutch just at this instance the engine hic ups and dies.... upon further investigation this even happens in neutral without the clutch... any thoughts to fix this? if i rev the engine it shouldnt dip down below the idle speed right? Thanks!!
I own a 2017 S10 that had the same symptoms. I set the right TB at 3/4 turns out and balanced the left to it; slightly better but no cure. I talked to several dealers that offered not help. I ended up purchasing the booster plug from Denmark (google to see their site) and this was the best $160 dollars I've ever spent. You can read their claims on their website but I found them to be accurate.
 

Riley8

2017 Super Tenere
Joined
Oct 4, 2017
Messages
16
But then your ambient temperature will be even more wrong?
Or am I missing something?
Yes, it is explained on their website. I also found that my S10 improved performance as the miles increased and the motor freed up (I have 6,200 miles on it now).
 

Checkswrecks

Ungenear to broked stuff
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These engine/trans assemblies really aren't seated till close to 4-5,000 miles. I had mine stall at about 1,500 miles but it really did get better with age.

There are a number of threads about the stumble on new bikes and throttle body syncing generally can help. I found the same. Riley8 mentioned this BUT it appears that he used the 3/4 turn of the Gen1 bikes. Here's a thread for the Gen2 and note Post #17 which says start with 1/4 turn rather than 3/4 and the end result ought to be somewhere between 1/8-1/2 turn. https://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?threads/throttle-body-sync-for-2015-model.17494/

(The links in old threads like the one I linked will go to an old forum software so many are broken)
 

Lautarooo

Active Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2019
Messages
152
Location
Riverhead, NY
Ok I will wait longer into the break in, thanks! The Booster plug is an interesting solution though.. it tricks the computer to thinking its 20C* colder out in order to deliver a richer fuel mixture giving a stronger idle.. the company claims that this counteracts the lean mixture imposed by goverments to curb emissions... the company has some 30k units sold for all kinds of bikes so it sounds successful... I actually tried one and it did help a lot but took it out when I reflashed the ECU by Anthony.. now I may replace the Booster Plug as the weak idle is back.. is this advisable in the long run for the super Tenere?
 

Riley8

2017 Super Tenere
Joined
Oct 4, 2017
Messages
16
I never had the problem. With that said I don’t won’t to diminish what is going on. This is just a suggestion, I let the clutch out slow till it starts to grab, as it grabs I give it throttle to counter the stall. No throttle stuff prior. Seems to work. On flat or down hill road you should be able to let the clutch out slowly enough not to stall with no throttle at all. Well that is to say I can. Your bike may be different. I hope you get it figured out. Guess what I am saying try a different technique.

When I rode a friends bmw boxer I had a lot of trouble shifting. Things wouuld just get jammed up and could not make the shift. He explained on bmws you had to preload the foot shifter with upper pressure just befor the actual shift. After that it shifted fine. A little learning curve but it was fine. Every girl has her charm you just need to learn how to dance with her.
On delivery of my S10, I noted jerky throttle response, a rough idle and occasional stalling. The motor was very tight and with the light flywheel effect of the engine, it stalled very easily when there was a slight hiccup in the fueling. My right TB was at 1/4 turn out on delivery so the first thing I did was read the forum and try it at 3/4 turn out and balance the left TB; better but didn't fix the problem. By the time I had one thousand miles on the machine, I was sick of the obviously lean fuel symptoms and was looking for a cure. Nothing more fun that dealing with a top heavy 600 pound machine that stalls with no warning. I considered having my ECU flashed but that requires a very competent turner. I saw someone mention the Booster Plug on the forum and ordered it.
Simple install and wow, way better. Less jerky, smoother, consistent idle, and no more stalling issues. I've added a Akropovic slip on and now with 6,000 miles on the machine, the bike is a rocket. I ride much of the time in the touring mod and it is not dead like it was when I first took delivery of the motorcycle. In the S mode the bike is lots of fun.
 
R

RonH

Guest
No help for you I'm afraid, but neither my 2012 and 2017 ever had anything I would consider out of the ordinary. I've stalled a few times and chalked it up to operator error. I do notice that my Goldwing is more forgiving in clutch behavior than either Tenere has been. It takes a little more effort on the super tenere. It does have that clutch switch that some guys jumpered that changes the fueling as you release the clutch. I would bet this is what you are feeling. Just takes some getting used to. Don't jumper the switch.
 
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