Ideas!

Scubatech

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Here's my issue. I was installing a new battery last week. I had the battery cables pushed under the wiring loom above the battery. As luck would have it as I pushed the battery into the box the positive cable dropped and briefly touched the negative battery post! So I had no power and started checking all the fuses and relays that the owners manual shows. I found & replaced the main 50 amp fuse. I now have fuel pump operation and an engine that spins normally but the Bike will not start! I've tried the cold start procedure and no start.
Tobasco has been kind enough to help me figure this out but so far we have no answer. I thought with the main fuse blowing the current would stop there and everything else would be OK.
I'm sure I will have to get a trailer and take my Bike to a Dealer but maybe someone has seen this before?
 

Scubatech

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Thanks for the reply. I don't think the Bike is firing. It's not hitting at all like when there is spark. I think something has failed preventing spark from occuring since it ran perfectly before this.
 

Saint rob

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I could be mis-understanding something here (very possible) but if the positive lead touched the negative post on the battery why would it blow any fuses if nothing is actually connected to the battery yet?
Even if the negative lead was connected to the battery at that point (which it shouldn't be) the positive lead momentarily touching the negative terminal still shouldn't blow a fuse.
Maybe the cause of the problem lies elsewhere, for example when you pushed the cables up out of the way did something get disconnected?
 

Scubatech

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Checks.......I,ll double check but fuse looked good.
Saint..... That surprised me too! The cables were safely tucked up under the wiring loom.
GV...... I didn't hook them up. It simply fell onto it and made a slight spark and I swept it away.
I'm wondering why any current would have passed the blown fuse anyway.
The Bike always ran perfectly like all the Yamaha's I've owned.. Thanks for the replies.
 

Checkswrecks

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I'm wondering why any current would have passed the blown fuse anyway.
...
Because fuses are not instantaneous. There would've been an instant inrush of current at a level which could open fuses or even damage electronics before the master had time to melt.
 

Squibb

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Just a few thoughts here as I am hoping the ECU hasn't been fried: -

1. Check all the fuses for continuity, with a meter. No need to pull them. Others mention Fuse #7 Ign. Then there is Back-up #5 if you have an immobiliser, #3 for the throttle valve & #12 for any options (maybe an alarm/immob.).

2. Reg/rec - they don't like reverse current. Disconnect & see if the bike will start.

3. Are there any strange clicking noises from any of relays? does the fuel pump charge up the system & then stop after a few seconds as normal?

4. Does the dash light up correctly when you first turn on the ign. Does the clock function.

5. Do you have any accessories wired from the battery? - if so, disconnect them all temporarily.

Good luck. Keep us posted.
 

Scubatech

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Severance, Colorado
Squibb,
1. I will recheck the fuses
2. I never thought about the reg / rec.
3. Relays seem to click normally when energized by the key.
4. Dash lights up, clock is functioning. Although my info screen on the right side will not scroll with the menu or switch for changing screens! I normally have it on the screen with ambient and engine temp, etc. Now there is a blank screen with a # 60 in the middle of it?? When I spin the engine over I then see the other screen? Kind of strange? The #60 doesn't appear to be a code that I've heard of.
5. I have a tender plug & heated gear plug hooked straight to battery to avoid electronic issues. As I mention earlier that positive cable just touch the negative post for less than a second when if fell & the other post wasn't hooked up but I guess that really doesn't matter with the sensitivity of electronics.

Thanks for your suggestions. It may be a while since there is a lot of things going on in the Summer, but I'll definitely let everyone know the final outcome.
 

Scubatech

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Aug 11, 2016
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Severance, Colorado
I found it!!!
Squibb, you were very close!!

I pulled all the fuses and looked at them and I found the ETV fuse had a small crack in the metal tab. I don't know what the Electronic throttle valve does but that restored my screens and toggle function. I used the cold flooded engine procedure to get it to run.

Thanks for everyone's ideas and help. I appreciate it.
 

Squibb

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Good news - you have been very fortunate.

The lessons then - check fuses with a meter, not by eye. And ........ Yes, I've been there & tied myself in knots before now.
Secondly, tie the earth/neg lead away securely when working on the battery & only ever reconnect it last.
 

patrickg450

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Because fuses are not instantaneous. There would've been an instant inrush of current at a level which could open fuses or even damage electronics before the master had time to melt.

Listen to my man here........


I have been doing electronic for over 30 years, no I ain't not no expert (purposely spoken), but I have seen my techs get burnt on something was damaged down stream from the fuse. I may have been as well for that matter. The term slow blow is used frequently in our NAV-Aids.
 

Scubatech

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Severance, Colorado
Glad you got it running, but something slightly different happened than the way you explained it. As Saint rob said earlier, one lead, or both leads for that matter, touching one terminal on a battery, with the other terminal completely disconnected, shouldn't do anything.
I agree with you and Saint Rob but it did somehow. I learned something from this for sure.
 
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