I need to replace a broken "Stay 1"

RSH

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Herzliya, Israel
I need to replace the "stay 1" as it snaped where windshield holder connects whith bike, shame on me, tipped over on an uneven surface. However it does look rather complicated and that many things need to come off to do so. has any one a write up any video of how to do this? for example, do the side cowlings need to come off? also, i need to take off the deflector part and wonder if one should pop out the yamaha sign to get to some bolt underneath? seemed to be glued..?
 
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regder

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My grandmother lives in Bat Yam, do you know her?

More seriously, just sent you a PM
 

RSH

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here is where the stay1 part is. i marked the breakpointswhere broken stay-1 is.png
it is deep and i found no relevant scheme how to get there - can anyone help?
 

Checkswrecks

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Welcome aboard Roy,
You're not the first or last and fortunately it's not a terribly expensive part, just a bit of a pain to remove the parts and re-install them. Here are a couple of previous threads and I know there are others:

Photo below is from a member who put his back together with scraps of metal and sheetmetal screws and it held for an amazingly long time. (TrikePilot & "Fancy")
Seems there was also a member who said he took his to a plastic sign place where the plastic was welded.

 

RSH

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May 8, 2021
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Herzliya, Israel
Welcome aboard Roy,
You're not the first or last and fortunately it's not a terribly expensive part, just a bit of a pain to remove the parts and re-install them. Here are a couple of previous threads and I know there are others:

Photo below is from a member who put his back together with scraps of metal and sheetmetal screws and it held for an amazingly long time. (TrikePilot & "Fancy")
Seems there was also a member who said he took his to a plastic sign place where the plastic was welded.

thank you, i missed these posts when i searched. i had a fleeting though of plastic welding, thought it probably not strong enough, need to rethink this perhaps.
BTW - the pic is not displaying
 

RSH

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Herzliya, Israel
1624688631221.png
perhaps a silly Q: how do i remove this part, seems like i must remove glued yamaha sign to access whatever is holding the larger piece - yet does not feel right to do so..
 

Checkswrecks

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Wiggle it firmly with your fingers and you should understand quickly.
 

The Mountain

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View attachment 81781
perhaps a silly Q: how do i remove this part, seems like i must remove glued yamaha sign to access whatever is holding the larger piece - yet does not feel right to do so..
I think what the others are trying to say is that the "larger piece" isn't bolted in. You don't need to peel off the Yamaha logo. The "larger piece" is held on by pins on its back that push into rubber grommets. Just pull the whole thing outward.
 
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RSH

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I think what the others are trying to say is that the "larger piece" isn't bolted in. You don't need to peel off the Yamaha logo. The "larger piece" is held on by pins on its back that push into rubber grommets. Just pull the whole thing outward.
much obliged..
 

Doug C

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The bolt the nut attaches to comes out from the top, turn the handle bars until it hits the stop ( can’t remember which way at the moment) then you will see the head of the bolt.
 

Kruzzin5

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Here are some pictures I took of replacing my Stay-1 bracket. Fairly straightforward as long as you keep track of what came from where. The headlight assembly I found the most problematic. Because I have the alt rider headlight guard, the pins for the guard, screw into well nuts. These were spinning on the nuts and could not be removed, so I took a power drill and with some quick reverse motions, was able to break it loose. Another way would be to remove the complete headlight assembly with the four screws, 2 on top, two on bottom and leave the guard on.
As pointed out in the pictures, There is only one plug to remove the speedometer panel. Comes off easily and route through the fuse box inner panel. The fuse panel has to be loosened …most forward of panel, 1 screw…to have access for removing the Stay, as does the left side inner panel….most forward left 1 screw. Not a big deal. Once you’ve gotten everything removed the Stay comes right off after pulling the large screw that fastens into the neck of the frame. The Stay comes without any of the locknuts or well nuts that attach for the windshield. Transfer these from the old to new Stay. After that, reassemble everything as was removed. The bracket that connects through the neck frame is offset slightly. When you put it on it’s going to look crooked, but it fits perfect. I added dielectric grease to all fittings since I was in there, including the other connecters that are nearby the speed of connection.
 

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RSH

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May 8, 2021
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Herzliya, Israel
Here are some pictures I took of replacing my Stay-1 bracket. Fairly straightforward as long as you keep track of what came from where. The headlight assembly I found the most problematic. Because I have the alt rider headlight guard, the pins for the guard, screw into well nuts. These were spinning on the nuts and could not be removed, so I took a power drill and with some quick reverse motions, was able to break it loose. Another way would be to remove the complete headlight assembly with the four screws, 2 on top, two on bottom and leave the guard on.
As pointed out in the pictures, There is only one plug to remove the speedometer panel. Comes off easily and route through the fuse box inner panel. The fuse panel has to be loosened …most forward of panel, 1 screw…to have access for removing the Stay, as does the left side inner panel….most forward left 1 screw. Not a big deal. Once you’ve gotten everything removed the Stay comes right off after pulling the large screw that fastens into the neck of the frame. The Stay comes without any of the locknuts or well nuts that attach for the windshield. Transfer these from the old to new Stay. After that, reassemble everything as was removed. The bracket that connects through the neck frame is offset slightly. When you put it on it’s going to look crooked, but it fits perfect. I added dielectric grease to all fittings since I was in there, including the other connecters that are nearby the speed of connection.
thank you very much. I finally fixed it over the weekend. v e r y slowly but it works.
 

holligl

Find the road less traveled...
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Nov 13, 2015
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I have the new part, and plan to replace it when I do a fork and steering bearing service. The old one has been temporarily epoxied, so I'm not in a rush. I am thinking about some aluminum/epoxy reinforcements before installation. I'm not sure if mine was fatigue failure or a drop.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

RSH

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May 8, 2021
Messages
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Herzliya, Israel
I have the new part, and plan to replace it when I do a fork and steering bearing service. The old one has been temporarily epoxied, so I'm not in a rush. I am thinking about some aluminum/epoxy reinforcements before installation. I'm not sure if mine was fatigue failure or a drop.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
perhaps there is some logic in a sacrificial part? ie something intended to break before other more important and expensive parts are deformed or damaged much? just 2nd guessing the engineers.
 
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