JJTJ2
Well-Known Member
Maybe I missed it, but did the ABS light come on at any point?
I am looking for rear brake advise
- Thread starter BudRinPa
- Start date
gunslinger_006
Well-Known Member
Hmm. The mystery continues!
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B
ballisticexchris
Guest
Those symptoms are typical to air in the line.
Tenman
Well-Known Member
If his brakes were working fine and all he did was replace the pads. It doesn’t have air in the lines. If you don’t ever cycle your ABS pump. Your asking for problems. I hit some grass or dirt and cycle mine pretty regularly. It still feels strange hitting the front hard and not washing out.
gunslinger_006
Well-Known Member
I light up my abs twice before i leave my neighborhood every ride. Been doing this since i read the first reports of these modules failing.
Its also important to inspect the module and make sure you dont have standing water and debris there. At least one member here found their abs pump was soaking in a soup of wet gunk thrown up somehow by the rear tire iiuc (or it was water ingress from riding in the rain and the gunk prevented the case from draining).
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PhilPhilippines
Well-Known Member
x2 on momentarily activating the ABS on first inspection every first ride.
Do you cycle them individually or linked?
Do you cycle them individually or linked?
Last edited:
I transmit only a personal experience, which happened to me in cars. Whenever the pads are changed, the "normal" thing "was" to push the pistons in so that the new pads could fit ... and that's how the problems "sometimes" began. The rubber seals on the caliper pistons are made to receive pressure from the "back" and thus seal ... when you push those pistons in, the seal works backwards and "supposedly" would let air in. The solution was to push the pistons back by "opening and closing" the bleed screws, as the piston was pushed (as if it were bleeding) ... put the new pads in place and immediately "bleed" each caliper .... By doing this, I did not have problems with the loss of braking capacity after changing the pads.
If the purge is not fast (immediately after changing pads) and some bubble escapes through the line upwards, then it is more difficult to remove it
If the purge is not fast (immediately after changing pads) and some bubble escapes through the line upwards, then it is more difficult to remove it
RCinNC
Well-Known Member
The OP says he'd ridden for 800 miles since the brake pad change with no issues, so I think air in the line would be a stretch. I imagine at some point in those previous miles he'd have noticed the spongy brake pedal. Same with pushing the brake piston back into the caliper housing; unless he hadn't used his rear brake for those 800 miles, that resetting of the brake piston after you push it back into the caliper would have happened about 800 miles ago. Whatever happened to his rear brake sounds to me like it's unrelated to the change of the brake pads. Weirder still is that the problem seems to now have corrected itself. I've never read about an intermittent ABS module failure before; that's a little scary.
gunslinger_006
Well-Known Member
Usually I just light up the rear to be honest. The front is harder for me to actuate safely.
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WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
I can't quite get my head around this explanation. Pressure in the caliper will increase as a result of pushing the fluid backward in the system against all the restrictions to flow. I don't understand how air at only atmospheric pressure could enter from a lower pressure into a higher pressure environment?
Having said that, letting fluid out the bleeder when compressing the pistons is not a bad idea, it reduces the effort required, prevents pushing debris that may have settled in the calipers (lowest spot in the system) back up into the master cylinder or ABS unit, and finally avoids spilling over the master cylinder in the case where fluid was added as the pads wore down. One problem I have had is that if you release the pressure on the piston before you close the bleeder, the seals will rebound slightly and you'll suck air back through the bleeder.
yes ... you are absolutely right. I always change the pads in the traditional way (push the piston, insert new pads, bring pads to the disc, purge to remove liquid and impurities) ... but I never found air. The last 2 times I changed pads I did the same procedure. in the first, it was spongy, bleed and corrected. the second time the same thing happened. From there I changed the method of pushing the piston (I do it by opening the bleed screw) .... I put the pads bring to the disk and bleed "but I can't find air" ..... I understand what you say about the positive pressure inside the circuit and you are absolutely right .... and you are right that the method of pushing the cylinder and opening the screw is also susceptible to air entering .... but it is not something that "occurred to me" .... When I consulted a workshop specialized in brakes (for the air that I found) ... they told me that they pushed the piston using the bleed screw ... it seemed to me that the procedure was correct ... indeed, the ideal after removing the pads, is to continue removing the piston "just a little more" ... clean the piston well and only then insert it completely
BudRinPa
New Member
All great info. At this point I have ordered a service/repair manual and once I get it I am going to flush/bleed the brake system per the manual. Decided not to ride it in the meantime just out of an abundance of caution. My wheel/axel spacer is fine considering I have yet to remove the rear wheel and have 9000 miles on it since I have owned it. Then again my Yamaha dealer has removed but that was 3500 mls ago. I will do the simple test suggested plus the flush/bleed and will report back. Thanks again fellow rider, you are appreciated! Hope I don't have to rebuild or purchase a module but if I do, oh well, I still love my bike.
BudRinPa
New Member
Just an update. Still waiting for the manual. I went to my local dealer to pickup wheel balancing weights I had on order, while there I asked parts to check price and availability on the ABS module. There is 1 available, that's the good news. BAD news, it retails for $1346.00!!! He said don't worry that is retail and I will work with you on price if you need it. Did not even ask....WTF! How much do you think they will "work" with me if they know I need it.
BudRinPa
New Member
No ABS lite, which is a good thing!
gunslinger_006
Well-Known Member
Here dude:
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BudRinPa
New Member
You are the MAN. I am assuming this manual is going to work for my 2013 XTZ12D(C)Here dude:
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gunslinger_006
Well-Known Member
gunslinger_006
Well-Known Member
We have not seen an intermittent abs failure so it very possible its not that. Heres hoping!!
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BudRinPa
New Member
Thanks to Gunslinger I am looking at the layout of the ABS on page 1-10 of the manual. I don't see any listing of the module or ECU. I am starting to feel incompetent at this point. Can someone let me know what I am looking for and where it is located. I would like to do a visual inspection.
gunslinger_006
Well-Known Member
3-14 has the brake bleed procedure
