HOW TO: Quick and Easy ABS Disable Switch

Niterunnr

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Or just run a sufficient gauge wire and it's fine.
The correct gauge wire, (I’d use at least 12), is required regardless. My point is that this wire is hot even with the bike off. I don’t like the idea of a 30A hot lead while the bike is parked.

Made a simple plug and play option that keeps the lead nice and short and requires no tools/skills and takes one minute to install.
 

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Jago

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HI,
I'm looking for someone who can make me an ABS switch (for handlebars) for Supertenere 1200 year 2016.
 

Mak10

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If you put a switch on the handlebars, keep in mind that once you disable the abs, it won’t come back until you cycle the ignition.
 

Jago

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I understand, Activation must be, ABS custom turned to the ON position and reset by the ignition key as with TCS. Did I get it right?
 

Checkswrecks

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Hadn't really looked until somebody questioned the wire gage and now that I have:

1. As the chart below shows, your 14 AWG wire is rated to carry up to 20 amps, not the 30 A that the fuse can provide. This means that your wire is now the circuit breaker. Bad idea.

2. Same for picking a 25A switch for use in a 30A circuit. Overloaded switches can have the contacts weld shut, especially once the get a little corrosion.

3. I would not use house wire in a bike, even if it is stranded versus single conductor. House wire has less strands, meaning the copper strands can fatigue and break faster wherever the run has flex. While most people sell bikes before added wiring becomes an issue, you also want to use tinned wire for corrosion protection.

 

Niterunnr

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I was debating on making up a bunch of these, plug n play; a little overbuilt, but very safe. I’m having trouble sourcing a reasonably priced push button interrupt switch which would make it impossible to forget to reset. 10awg. Switch would be accessible through the gap in the fairing.
As I’ve posted before, that wire is near 30 amps and live even when bike is off.
PS
Another consideration is your choice of switch; 30 amps DC is quite a bit and the switch must be appropriately rated.

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Mak10

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As CW described, use wire and a switch rated for the load. I used a cheap fleabay switch and it didn’t hold up.
 

Niterunnr

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Wouldn't it be better to use a relay to handle 30 amps and then you can use a lower amp switch?
I would say yes if you want to use a dash mount switch because you can keep the high amp wires short, (like my photo) and run low current trigger to dash. Look at gap by your right knee though, plenty of room for a high current switch and less fuss than a relay.
 

Berg_Donk

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When I did my GenI I fitted an 80A SPDT relay in series with the fuse and a momentary on switch on the clutch clamp on the bars.

The fuse circuit, now via the relay, is normally connected when the relay is off, and therefore a form of fail safe. If the relay fails, it fails such that the circuit is normal.

The momentary switch when held for 1-2 secs fires the relay breaking the circuit, mimicking a blown fuse.

The ABS stays disabled with the light on the dash indicating such until the ignition is recycled.

Works good whenever I feel the need to kill it which is usually on unsealed surfaces. Left thumb for 1-2 secs and the brakes work like traditional brakes.
 

s.ga.rider

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I ordered a waterproof switch and fuse holder from amazon today. I will install it tuesday and see how it goes. Doing a spark plug change too.
 

s.ga.rider

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I decided against it. After plugging the spade conners in to the fuse holder, they came out too easy for comfort. They would eventually vibrate out while riding. I didn’t have any other type spades to try so I put the plastics back on
 

Mak10

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I wish one of you big bad off roaders would take me somewhere where I would need to disable my ABS. LOL
When are you coming out to Utah, Idaho,Colorado, Montana, Wyoming? It doesn’t take much, a downhill with loose rocks. Ophir pass is a good example, coming down the hill towards Ophir, Colorado.
 
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ballisticexchris

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I wish one of you big bad off roaders would take me somewhere where I would need to disable my ABS. LOL
I'm with you Scott. I don't ride fast enough where I would need it off road. The only advantage disabled ABS has is decreasing stopping distance off the pavement (at speed). But it takes a lot of practice on this big of bike. I have been down some pretty steep slippery stuff and was able to modulate the brakes just fine. 1st gear idling in sport mode is a brake in itself.

IMHO, good tire choice, gear selection, reduced speed, and brake modulation will get keep out of trouble. OTOH if you are a ham fisted brake slider type of guy all bets are off.
 

Mak10

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It’s far easier to blame the tires, speed, terrain, weight or any other number of things, when it really comes down to your own riding skill. If you have never had the abs “freewheel” on a steep, loose downhill- you are not pushing the capabilities of this bike.
 
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ballisticexchris

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It’s far easier to blame the tires, speed, terrain, weight or any other number of things, when it really comes down to your own riding skill. If you have never had the abs “freewheel” on a steep, loose downhill- you are not pushing the capabilities of this bike.
I would have to respectfully disagree with that statement. Yamaha engineers designed the bike this way for a reason. Tires, speed, terrain. weight, etc play a huge role in what this bike is capable of. Rider skill is only one part of it. Having to disable the ABS on this bike is well outside the perimeters of what it was designed for.

That being said, there are a whole other group of riders such as yourself, that are willing to push this this bike well beyond it's intended specifications. That is why we have modifications like this.
 
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