HOW TO: Quick and Easy ABS Disable Switch

Jlq1969

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I am telling everyone to STOP right now for several reasons.
*You are taking over this thread, which has valuable information, and polluting it with nonsense.
*We have had enough problems with people who have strong opinions.
*I am deleting all this.
*If you want to argue further with little moderation use the Debate Room.
Can I put you as a moderator on the WhatsApp messages that my wife sends me, when she is angry with me?:):)
 

thughes317

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Sorry Stefan, hope this doesn't re-ignite a debate but I just stumbled across this while researching some ABS stuff for another member. If there's a better place to put it, please move (noting that it is NOT an opinion but is actual text from OEM manual).

Direct from Yamaha owner's manual:

hmmm.......png
 

Tenforeplay

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I’ve thought about this mod on my bike for the option. Has anyone thought about breaking the ground circuit instead of hot?
 

Wymbly1971

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I’ve thought about this mod on my bike for the option. Has anyone thought about breaking the ground circuit instead of hot?
Sorta.....

I use a relay (in normally closed mode) to break the +ve 30A circuit.

Battery +ve hard wired to control side of the relay. The switch on my dash, connected to ground, provides -ve to the control side of relay.

I wired it this way so I have virtually no +ve power running up to my dash and can use any low power switch.
 
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Tenforeplay

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Sorta.....

I use a relay to break the +ve circuit (I use an inline fuse as well). The relay I use is "normally closed" so it requires power to break the circuit. As such, I have battery +ve hard wired to control side of the relay. The switch on my dash provides -ve to the control side of relay.

I wired it this way so I have short wires for the 30A load and no +ve power running up to my dash
That was sort of my thoughts. Thanks. I'll look for info on this way. My thought was one ground switched but after I posted I supposed the ground would be common to more than one circuit and wouldn't work.
 

Jlq1969

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I’ve thought about this mod on my bike for the option. Has anyone thought about breaking the ground circuit instead of hot?
The circuit that is normally cut to cancel the ABS is the circuit of the ABS electric motor (30 amp fuse)...but "normally" the logic of the vehicle computers is more or less like this: the hot wire that arrives to the electric motor, it returns to the ECU through the negative and that way the ECU knows that the fuse is good and that the motor is not blown (the positive does not go to ground and blows the fuse)...now, when The ECU wants the engine to work, that negative cable through which the positive signal returned... simply with an internal relay in the ECU it sends that negative to ground and there the engine now has negative to rotate. …if you look at the ABS components, you will find fuses (for the abs motor and the abs ecu), but you will not find abs “relays”…which is strange for a hot circuit. Everything that consumes current on the motorcycle has its hot wires through a relay (horn, stop light, starter, fan, headlights, etc.)…except the ABS motor (with a 30amp fuse??)…. It does not use a relay, that is, the electric motor is always hot, but the negative wire is not a wire, it’s inside of abs ecu
When you cut the 30 amp circuit, a fault is informed…
It's like a burnt out lamp sensor. 12V enters through the positive, and returns to the ECU through the negative cable (for example 10V because of the filament), with this the ECU knows that the filament is fine...if nothing is returned, the filament is cut..(fault code)….and When the ECU wants to turn on the lamp, it sends that return cable to ground with an internal relay….
 
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Tenforeplay

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The circuit that is normally cut to cancel the ABS is the circuit of the ABS electric motor (30 amp fuse)...but "normally" the logic of the vehicle computers is more or less like this: the hot wire that arrives to the electric motor, it returns to the ECU through the negative and that way the ECU knows that the fuse is good and that the motor is not blown (the positive does not go to ground and blows the fuse)...now, when The ECU wants the engine to work, that negative cable through which the positive signal returned... simply with an internal relay in the ECU it sends that negative to ground and there the engine now has negative to rotate. …if you look at the ABS components, you will find fuses (for the abs motor and the abs ecu), but you will not find abs “relays”…which is strange for a hot circuit. Everything that consumes current on the motorcycle has its hot wires through a relay (horn, stop light, starter, fan, headlights, etc.)…except the ABS motor (with a 30amp fuse??)…. It does not use a relay, that is, the electric motor is always hot, but the negative wire is not a wire, it’s inside of abs ecu
When you cut the 30 amp circuit, a fault is informed…
It's like a burnt out lamp sensor. 12V enters through the positive, and returns to the ECU through the negative cable (for example 10V because of the filament), with this the ECU knows that the filament is fine...if nothing is returned, the filament is cut..(fault code)….and When the ECU wants to turn on the lamp, it sends that return cable to ground with an internal relay….
That’s pretty good understanding. So in your opinion it’s easier to switch the positive wire? Or something in the method of Wymnbly described using relays?
 

Jlq1969

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For that matter (disconnect “all” the ABS, front and rear, until you cycle the ignition key)...either of the two is the same. It is more elaborate with a relay (and negative on the dashboard), but if the live one that you bring to the dashboard is with a fuse... it is just as safe and easy….
 

Tenforeplay

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For that matter (disconnect “all” the ABS, front and rear, until you cycle the ignition key)...either of the two is the same. It is more elaborate with a relay (and negative on the dashboard), but if the live one that you bring to the dashboard is with a fuse... it is just as safe and easy….
To what are you referring when you say…either of the two are the same?
 

Jlq1969

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To what are you referring when you say…either of the two are the same?
“Any of the two options to disconnect the abs”
1) jump the abs fuse, with a hot wire, fuse, and a switch on the dashboard
2) jump the abs fuse with a normal closed relay (with fuse) and a switch on the dashboard that controls the negative of the relay (like Wymbly)
 
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Jlq1969

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In any case, whether or not to disconnect the ABS in offroad is more related to the pilot's ability.
A skilled rider can approach a curve at 50 mph, with the rear wheel locked, and the tail of the motorcycle pointing away from the curve, in the curve, position the tail toward the curve, and accelerate fully into the curve (like drift).
An intermediate rider can reach the same curve, braking only with the rear wheel and the ABS activated (with full control of the tail of the motorcycle) and accelerate fully into the curve with the TCS activated and all that only at 30 mph. The problem is not whether or not to disconnect the ABS in offroad, the problem is that if you disconnect it, you must know how to manage the tail of the motorcycle with the wheel locked, or with the TCS deactivated and accelerating fully in the same curve.
Now, trying to descend a steep hill (45 degrees)...disconnecting the ABS is a priority, but you can also descend it with the engine off (ABS off)...and let gravity take you down…..and if that hill surprises you and you see that the abs doesn't let you brake...Kill switch
 

Jlq1969

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In any case, whether or not to disconnect the ABS in offroad is more related to the pilot's ability.
A skilled rider can approach a curve at 50 mph, with the rear wheel locked, and the tail of the motorcycle pointing away from the curve, in the curve, position the tail toward the curve, and accelerate fully into the curve (like drift).
An intermediate rider can reach the same curve, braking only with the rear wheel and the ABS activated (with full control of the tail of the motorcycle) and accelerate fully into the curve with the TCS activated and all that only at 30 mph. The problem is not whether or not to disconnect the ABS in offroad, the problem is that if you disconnect it, you must know how to manage the tail of the motorcycle with the wheel locked, or with the TCS deactivated and accelerating fully in the same curve.
Now, trying to descend a steep hill (45 degrees)...disconnecting the ABS is a priority, but you can also descend it with the engine off (ABS off)...and let gravity take you down…..and if that hill surprises you and you see that the abs doesn't let you brake...Kill switch
In any case, in the video of the descent, clearly the abs should not be blamed for everything...it did not have the appropriate tires, it was not applying the rear brake..
 
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Tenforeplay

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Wiki has s pretty good write up on abs. Goes back further than I thought it existed.

“In gravel, sand, and deep snow, ABS tends to increase braking distances. On these surfaces, locked wheels dig in and stop the vehicle more quickly. ABS prevents this from occurring. Some ABS calibrations reduce this problem by slowing the cycling time, thus letting the wheels repeatedly briefly lock and unlock. Some vehicle manufacturers provide an "off-road" button to turn the ABS function off. The primary benefit of ABS on such surfaces is to increase the ability of the driver to maintain control of the car rather than go into a skid, though the loss of control remains more likely on soft surfaces such as gravel or on slippery surfaces such as snow or ice. On a very slippery surface such as sheet ice or gravel, it is possible to lock multiple wheels at once, and this can defeat ABS (which relies on comparing all four wheels and detecting individual wheels skidding). The availability of ABS relieves most drivers from learning threshold braking.

A June 1999 National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) study found that ABS increased stopping distances on loose gravel by an average of 27.2 percent.[32]
 

patrickg450

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Why would you want to open the ground wire vice the 12VDC? Do you really want that potential thru the device "looking" for a ground? And one of the highest load in the entire design, that is how you release the magic smoke........Do they put fuses on the ground side or the hot side?
 

Tenforeplay

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First thing I learned to do was walk. Second was to ride a bicycle. Third was how to lay a scratch by locking up the rear wheel. I’ll take abs on the front 24/7.
 
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