How Do I Remove a Broken Spark plug on a 2012 Super Tenere?

[WJBertrand]

A trick I leaned years ago when chasing threads is to grease up the chaser with some heavy axle grease. This will hold most if not all the shavings.


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[Treadb88]

I just purchased a used 2012 Super Tenere, my first Super Ten, this week with 30K miles. I was excited to do some maintenance before an upcoming trip to Florida from Virginia and was awaiting my DMV tags. Two days after the purchase, l replaced the oil, filter, shaft drive fluid, and cleaned the K&N air filter, as well as the bike in general. Then I opted to replace the 4 plugs that were two years Old with 12k miles since last plug change.

I started with the far left plug which removed easily but had some corrosion around the hex nut. The rest were in good condition, no corrosion around the hex nut, and had nice tan coloration around the insulation at the tip.

I started to install the first plug on the front far left port.

I used a torque wrench set to 13Nm to install the first plug and managed to shear off the plug casing in the cylinder. I had To use adapters with torque wrench and this led to over tightening the plug. luckily, the insulation didn’t break off.
View attachment 70408
As I pulled out the plug minus its casing that remained stuck in the cylinder, I searched this site and discovered this similar posting.

My heart sank when I read the estimates of $2500, etc. I decided to go all in and try and remove the casing. This was my first such experience with a sheared off plug casing in the cylinder head port. I called my stepdad who had rebuilt airplane engines in the past and he walked me through a recommended process.

I used the following to undertake the task:

Spiral Easy out #5 that I attached to a 9/32nds Socket (12 point and 3/8 inch). I used a hammer to drive it onto the easy out's square base. I then attached it to a six inch extension and had to use 1 inch adapter to get the right height to use a ratchet (I would try a square easy out in the future)
View attachment 70415
It was difficult to align the tool in the center of the casing but after six attempts of patiently turning the ratchet ever so slowly to align it as best as I could in that tight space, it finally bit into the spark plug casing and extracted it from the cylinder plug port.

However, after the casing came out, it was scored deeply at the tip and all the way up one side. I suspected that I may have scored the port threads in the cylinder head and thus decided to use a 10mm x 150 thread chaser to clean the threads in the port. All I was thinking is this was either going to be a great success or end up in an even more expensive mechanic repair bill!
View attachment 70412View attachment 70413
I should have used a 10mm x 100 to clean the ensure the threads were not damaged during extraction (I used the wrong size as Tenman pointed out and thus edited this post to avoid others from doing the same).

I then fashioned several 1/2 inch diameter to 1/4 inch diameter clear tubing to a shop vac to vacuum out any shavings that may have dropped into the cylinder head.
View attachment 70416
I used this to vacuum out the cylinder head as best as possible for any shavings that may have dropped into the cylinder head.

I reinserted the new plug using a magnetic swivel 5/8 inch spark plug socket with extension by hand but had to resort to 3/8 inch ratchet to get it started. It then went in easily and seated. I then gave it a 1/4 turn more vice using the Torque wrench - I did not want a repeat.
View attachment 70417

The rest of the plugs installed with no issue. I used anti seize and 1/4 turn past seating the plugs based on above recommendation.

I reassembled the Tenere and it started and ran great.

Thanks for the feedback and corrections on proper tools and threads and pitch.

 

[Treadb88]

A trick I leaned years ago when chasing threads is to grease up the chaser with some heavy axle grease. This will hold most if not all the shavings.


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WJBertrand, thank you for the tip. I will rely on that if I run into a similar problem in the future.


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[Ritters Dad]

Congrats on a successful repair of this really difficult problem. I wish my repair had gone that well however I'm not completely unhappy that I had a shop do the work as it was warranted for 30 days. I have put on a least 1500 miles after the job and the bike runs like new. My only tip would be to use anti-seize grease on the plug threads during reinstalling.

Happy Riding!

 

[Treadb88]

Congrats on a successful repair of this really difficult problem. I wish my repair had gone that well however I'm not completely unhappy that I had a shop do the work as it was warranted for 30 days. I have put on a least 1500 miles after the job and the bike runs like new. My only tip would be to use anti-seize grease on the plug threads during reinstalling.

Happy Riding!

Ritter’s Dad,

Thank you and glad you started this thread and appreciate the recommendations from the group.

I rode the bike for a 250 mile trip yesterday and it ran great in 90 degree weather. Engine temp at 70mph averaged between 169-171 deg. Cooling fan kicked on in stop-n-go traffic and kept heat between 200-215.

I did use anti seize as you mentioned and am enjoying the Tenere. Great design and bike.

I would have used a shop as you cannot replace the experience of a Master Technician - they have a lifetime of troubleshooting and the right tools to repair and maintain modern motorcycles.

I’m just trying to develop enough practical wrenching experience to make roadside repairs on long rides in more remote areas.

Clearly, I have a lot too learn.

Thanks, Tread


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[scott123007]

If you are using NGK plugs in particular, it is a no-no to use antiseize or copper coat on them.

 

[Treadb88]

If you are using NGK plugs in particular, it is a no-no to use antiseize or copper coat on them.

Thanks


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[Treadb88]

Thanks


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[ballisticexchris]

If you are using NGK plugs in particular, it is a no-no to use antiseize or copper coat on them.

Using and anti seize product is an added prevention from dissimilar metals fusing together. There is no reason whatsoever not to use it. Just adjust your torque values accordingly. Chrome (Trivalent) plated male threads can seize inside aluminum female threads just like any other 2 dissimilar threaded metals being tightened.

Simply torque plugs to 10.4 Nm (7.5 ft·lbf) and you are golden. For added protection I switched to a pure nickel based compound a while back.

 

[EricV]

Never follow the advice of anyone that suggests a torque value for spark plugs or drain plugs. And never use a torque wrench on spark plugs. The value @Treadb88 used originally is about twice what is needed. The whole point of a crush washer is to do it by feel. You need to feel the spark plug snug up, then feel the crush washer crushing, then STOP. On used plugs going back in, even the 1/4 turn is borderline excessive, but it's generally not enough to damage the spark plug or threads in the head, just thin the crush washer a bit more.

Another tip before attempting to chase or clean up threads is to compare your tap threads against an undamaged fastener, or spark plug in this case, to make sure they are a perfect mate. Anything less than perfect and it's likely not correct. Find someone with pitch gages and accurate measurement tools to help identify what you need before you start.

@Treadb88 - Welcome to the forum. Sorry to read about your adventure in spark plug changing. It's fairly common on Gen I bikes to see the clutch side spark plug a little rusty. Some believe it's partly due to that being 'down hill' when parked on the side stand. Please take a minute to add your location to your profile. It gives context to your posts and allows others to give better answers to any questions you might post in the future.

 

[Treadb88]

Never follow the advice of anyone that suggests a torque value for spark plugs or drain plugs. And never use a torque wrench on spark plugs. The value @Treadb88 used originally is about twice what is needed. The whole point of a crush washer is to do it by feel. You need to feel the spark plug snug up, then feel the crush washer crushing, then STOP. On used plugs going back in, even the 1/4 turn is borderline excessive, but it's generally not enough to damage the spark plug or threads in the head, just thin the crush washer a bit more.

Another tip before attempting to chase or clean up threads is to compare your tap threads against an undamaged fastener, or spark plug in this case, to make sure they are a perfect mate. Anything less than perfect and it's likely not correct. Find someone with pitch gages and accurate measurement tools to help identify what you need before you start.

@Treadb88 - Welcome to the forum. Sorry to read about your adventure in spark plug changing. It's fairly common on Gen I bikes to see the clutch side spark plug a little rusty. Some believe it's partly due to that being 'down hill' when parked on the side stand. Please take a minute to add your location to your profile. It gives context to your posts and allows others to give better answers to any questions you might post in the future.

EricV - great advice and thank you.

 

[ballisticexchris]

Never follow the advice of anyone that suggests a torque value for spark plugs or drain plugs. And never use a torque wrench on spark plugs.

All factory service manuals have a torque value for spark plugs and drain plugs. They are there for a reason. It's to prevent over-tightening and stripping threads and parts coming loose. If you have clean threads and use recommended torque values with properly calibrated torque wrenches and quality fasteners you will rarely have an issue.

If you have wrenching experience then you can go by feel as well. I paid big money for my tools and manuals so I use them as they were intended.

The following torque values are with new washers, good fasteners (not stretched) and dry threads per Factory Yamaha Service Manual:

Spark plug 13Nm/9.4 lb-ft

Both oil drains 20Nm/14 lb-ft

Oil filter Cartridge 17nm/12 lb-ft

Final Drive Fill/Drain Bolt 23Nm/17 lb-ft

 

[Treadb88]

All factory service manuals have a torque value for spark plugs and drain plugs. They are there for a reason. It's to prevent over-tightening and stripping threads and parts coming loose. If you have clean threads and use recommended torque values with properly calibrated torque wrenches and quality fasteners you will rarely have an issue.

If you have wrenching experience then you can go by feel as well. I paid big money for my tools and manuals so I use them as they were intended.

The following torque values are with new washers, good fasteners (not stretched) and dry threads per Factory Yamaha Service Manual:

Spark plug 13Nm/9.4 lb-ft

Both oil drains 20Nm/14 lb-ft

Oil filter Cartridge 17nm/12 lb-ft

Final Drive Fill/Drain Bolt 23Nm/17 lb-ft

Ballisticexchris:
I used the torque specs per service manual you provided but didn’t have the rest dialed in as you mentioned. A lesson learned and one that I will venture not to repeat.
Thanks, Brad


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[jbrown]

I think you develop a "feel" for correct tightness by one of two methods. Using a torque wrench (and correct specs) for a while (maybe a long while) or trial and error (things fall off, or you break things, then you go somewhere between those). No one is born knowing how tight a fastener should be by feel. I use a torque wrench whenever I have the specs, and there is room for the wrench. Spark plugs included. (There's no 3/4 turn rule for the taper seat plugs my old fords used!)