help please altrider crash bars m12x30 bolt what is the pitch

bimota

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Before we go all blacksmith, these are on ebay. They are 40mm long but are all thread, so can be sawn to length.

hey paul in there drop down they got m12x30 if you look by 1.25, so these will be ok paul, don.t want to go all you need this and that just need a bolt that,ll be OKt
 

bimota

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Regardless of galvanic compatibility, if titanium ever strips, snaps, or gets stuck, you'll have a hell of a time drilling it out. I generally avoid it for that reason.

-Found these class 12.9 bolts on Amazon UK, but they're not zinc plated.
-Found a place called Celtic Industrial Fasteners that isn't too far from Bridgend, and they carry 10.9 bolts, but it all appears to be coarse thread (1.75). Perhaps they could special order the correct thread.

Everywhere else I've looked so far either doesn't carry it, or doesn't have an online storefront. Might prove easier to smelt some ore and forge them by hand.

I normally buy such hardware from McMaster-Carr, but... I don't think they ship to the UK currently.
thanks alot for your time to help out. rob
 

bimota

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Before we go all blacksmith, these are on ebay. They are 40mm long but are all thread, so can be sawn to length.

paul,
would you defenetaly use the above over stainless, never thought that stainless would be a issue to be honest
 

Saint rob

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Try giving Mike a call with your requirements on 01636 636735, https://www.polished-stainless.com/
He also does zinc plated stuff, top bloke he does all the classic shows and nothing is too much trouble. He helped me out recently sourcing some M10x1.25 flanged stuff (rare as rocking horse sh1t) while rebuilding my XV750 and he'll cut a longer bolt down to size if he hasn't got the length you want
 

tallpaul

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I would use stainless on decorative or low stress applications. These bolts are part of what holds the engine in the frame, so would use a proper high tensile type. The engine is a stressed member, meaning it effectively is part of the chassis.
 

bimota

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guys,

can i ask then with the other bolts needed, i.e m8x40 socket cap, m6x20 countersunk, m8x16 socket cap, only a few bolts i was going to buy stainless for these to keep corrosion free, would you not use stainless here as well and just buy 10.9 zinc plated

rob
 

bimota

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I would use stainless on decorative or low stress applications. These bolts are part of what holds the engine in the frame, so would use a proper high tensile type. The engine is a stressed member, meaning it effectively is part of the chassis.
ok, stainless for the other smaller bolts is ok but the 2 big m12x30 use the 10.9 zinc plated, on ebay its yellow or black in 10.9

rob
 

EricV

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Or you could just order a set of studs from one of our forum members. - LINK
 

Don in Lodi

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12x1.25x65mm studs for the front. The four side bolts are already there, you reuse the bolts from the factory guards that will no longer be there. You've got the tiny countersunk bolts for the crossover covered.
 

StefanOnHisS10

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Hey Rob,

don’t forget to use an anti-seize compound if you are using stainless (regarding if it is A2 of A4). I work with all kinds of (stainless)steel, and more exotic metals. I sugest using regular available metals like steel or stainless. Stainless doesn’t like vibrations/movement, keep that in mind. Using a higher grade then 8.8 isn’t necessery. Aplying the right torgue is more important.

Stefan.
 
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