Oxford grips where the option I went with. And the few fall rides I did find them to be very effective. Low entry fee was a bonus and ease of installation. I installed them per there instructions and they do turn themselves off when you turn off the ignition. Thank you all for your replies to my inquiries.
Heated grips.
- Thread starter kena48
- Start date
mcycle-nut
Active Member
I installed the Oxfords this past winter, just tried them out yesterday, (actual riding). They are plenty warm. After some modification to the mount that came with them, I mounted the control underneath the left mirror stalk. I used the glue that came with grips. One thing that I cannot emphasize more, is READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! If you follow them, you will have no problems. For example, they say, if the grip hangs up going on, trim the inside of the grip as you may find some flashing left over from the molding process. You don't want to be trying to cram it on with glue all over the place and have it seize up on you when it's halfway on. I've watched enough "Forged In Fire" to know that dry fitting is important! 
Bombadier36
Member
I am back with a question on the grips. Installation went well and have been using them - working perfectly until... I went on a day ride and tried turning them on and they are no longer registered in the computer.
All fuses are good, checked all connectors, checked the wiring coming from both grips and both seem to be in tact (no wear showing or wires broken/lose). The only item that seems to be questionable is the CB1a-T-M-12V fuse (?) - looks like some slight corrosion on it.
Questions:
What trouble shooting am I missing?
Is there a way for me to know if this fuse (mentioned above) is working without replacing it?
All fuses are good, checked all connectors, checked the wiring coming from both grips and both seem to be in tact (no wear showing or wires broken/lose). The only item that seems to be questionable is the CB1a-T-M-12V fuse (?) - looks like some slight corrosion on it.
Questions:
What trouble shooting am I missing?
Is there a way for me to know if this fuse (mentioned above) is working without replacing it?
Attachments
Bombadier36
Member
Bought a volt meter - anyone know what volt reading I should see?
jrusell
Well-Known Member
That is a standard automotive relay, not a fuse.
Go to any local auto parts store and pick up another. Probably $5
connections 85 and 86 energize the coil which pulls the contacts closed between 30 and 87 and feeds power to the main circuit.
Go to any local auto parts store and pick up another. Probably $5
connections 85 and 86 energize the coil which pulls the contacts closed between 30 and 87 and feeds power to the main circuit.
jrusell
Well-Known Member
My bike doesn't have factory heated grips, but the 85/86 connections would be your switched power source. 30/87 probably power to the grips.
Make a jumper and connect the two wires that go to 30/87 connections. Your grips should have power.
Don't leave it this way, but you will at least be able to confirm this is your only issue and the grips are fine.
Green crusties are never a good thing. Should be a cheap fix hopefully.
Make a jumper and connect the two wires that go to 30/87 connections. Your grips should have power.
Don't leave it this way, but you will at least be able to confirm this is your only issue and the grips are fine.
Green crusties are never a good thing. Should be a cheap fix hopefully.
Bombadier36
Member
Thanks for the information. I realized it was a relay after doing some more research on it.
The local auto store didn’t have any so I’m waiting for an order to arrive.
The local auto store didn’t have any so I’m waiting for an order to arrive.
jrusell
Well-Known Member
Walmart auto section will have them.
Al-n2it
2014 Super Tenere
I don't think that relay has anything to do with the factory grips. The service manual doesn't show a relay in the system. I would test the resistance of each grip at the connectors. Values you should see are below.
Attachments
Toolingguy
New Member
Did they have do anything to get it on the menu? Is it something that can be done at home? I have a 2016 standard model and want to buy the parts and install myself
Once the system sees 2 installed factory grips it shows on the menu. When it goes away you know a grip (usually throttle side) has failed.
ppcg4
New Member
I saw the heated grip option disappear and used a multimeter to test continuity and found one grip had none. Sure enough...
Had my throttle side heated grip go out on me. This is a non-ES so the previous owner had the OEM heated grip accessory installed by the dealer on my bike. This is what happens when you ignore the instruction to lube the cable. $325 CAD later (just for the one grip, I installed it myself) and I have my heated grips back, with lots of grease. I now consider this a maintenance item and will re-lube the cable every oil change or so.
Hi. My grips on 2018 ES have stopped working. From reading various threads it seems that one grip fails and we lose the display. I need to ascertain which grip has failed as, here in UK, a single grip is approx £200 and both together are approx £300 and I want to save £100 if I can. I am a complete novice with electrics and have a couple of questions on the quoted text. I have disconnected both grips at the connectors on the right side near the battery. I have set my multimeter to the ohms setting and when I touch the two prongs together the display goes from blank to displaying zeros with a decimal point dependant on which ohm setting i use. I assume this means that there is perfect continuity with no resistance? I then applied the prongs to the connector that is attached to the disconnected grip. Is this correct? This shows zeros, exactly the same as touching the prongs together. I get exactly the same reading on the other connector. Am I right in assuming that this means there is full continuity in both grips and no resistance, as there should be( approx 1.5 ohms in each) and thus both grips have developed a fault at the same time? I have also carried out the same test with the multimeter set to the diode setting, with the same results. (saw this suggested on web and no idea if it makes sense)
As I find it unlikely that both would fail at the same time I am doubting my fault finding skills and the results I have come up with. Advice appreciated.
Also, some members say that there is no fuse for the grips and others say that they checked the fuse. So is there anything else I should be checking for before buying both grips? Many thanks.
EricV
Riding, farkling, riding...
2011 Site Supporter
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From your description, both grips have continuity. If they didn't, your read out would be what it is when nothing is connected. I assume you are checking the grip side of the connector, not the bike side. I no longer have a FSM to reference, but I notice in this thread someone else had a failure related to the CB1A-T-M-12V relay, which is a standard, common place automotive relay any auto parts store will have. I would guess the heated grips are on a fused circuit, but have no idea which one.
Good luck. It does sound like the grips are ok, so the problem is either a fuse, relay or possibly a loose connection.
Good luck. It does sound like the grips are ok, so the problem is either a fuse, relay or possibly a loose connection.
Thanks EricV. I was hoping you would come back to me. Yes I am checking the grip side. I have seen in one thread that there should be approximately 1.5 ohm resistance on each grip and it is this resistance that the ECU picks up to operate the dash readout. As mine are showing 0 does this mean that they are ok or that they both have a problem? Not sure if there is a difference between continuity and resistance in vehicle electrical terms. I am very confused. Is there anyone who can point me in the right direction for the fuse and/or relay location? Many thanks.
EricV
Riding, farkling, riding...
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Don't worry about the resistance value at this point. You are using the ohm scale, but really just performing a continuity test, which showed that the circuit was not broken in the grips. In terms of diagnostic process, you have eliminated the grips themselves as the problem. This would suggest power is not being supplied to the grips, or the ECU is not seeing power at the grips.
Because the display does not show the heated grips, it's not recognizing that they are hooked up, or that circuit has no power. imho, most likely the latter.
Check fuse #12 O/P Option fuse in the main fuse block under the side panel. I don't know if this fuse covers the heated grips, but it would make sense that it does. After that, check the relays for obvious signs of heat or corrosion.
Because the display does not show the heated grips, it's not recognizing that they are hooked up, or that circuit has no power. imho, most likely the latter.
Check fuse #12 O/P Option fuse in the main fuse block under the side panel. I don't know if this fuse covers the heated grips, but it would make sense that it does. After that, check the relays for obvious signs of heat or corrosion.
Dshane
Active Member
Hi All,
I just installed OEM grips on my non-ES 2016 and reading about the throttle side needing to be lubricated. This, I assume, is in the throttle housing where the cable rubs against it? And what would you suggest to use? Grease? WD-40? Just not sure what to use. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Other than putting the throttle cables back on the correct way, it was an easy job.
Thanks for the suggestion about buying just the grips and not the whole kit, cost about 225 vs 399ish.
DS
I just installed OEM grips on my non-ES 2016 and reading about the throttle side needing to be lubricated. This, I assume, is in the throttle housing where the cable rubs against it? And what would you suggest to use? Grease? WD-40? Just not sure what to use. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Other than putting the throttle cables back on the correct way, it was an easy job.
Thanks for the suggestion about buying just the grips and not the whole kit, cost about 225 vs 399ish.
DS
Nikolajsen
"Keep it simple"
Yes, you are correct.
It is in the housing, and yes, use some grease. Not WD40, not oil.
Something that stays "greasy" for as long as possible.
Last I did it, I used chain lubrication. It is liquid when sprayed on, then gets very greasy and sticky, and I believe it has the correct viscosity for the job.
It is in the housing, and yes, use some grease. Not WD40, not oil.
Something that stays "greasy" for as long as possible.
Last I did it, I used chain lubrication. It is liquid when sprayed on, then gets very greasy and sticky, and I believe it has the correct viscosity for the job.
Dshane
Active Member
Thank you.